One fob doesnt work in ignition, But my other one does (Advice)
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mercedes e320
One fob doesnt work in ignition, But my other one does (Advice)
Hey all. I have a 2000 e320 rwd (253k miles), which had its failed eis replaced 2 years ago. During this, I also had a new key programmed. This key was done for $200, and the guy gave me a pretty low-quality fob (probably the cheapest he could find).
2 days ago this newer fob stopped reacting in the ignition. No steering wheel unlock, no lights, nothing. But, when the door is open, and I insert this key, I get a "remove key" message on the dash. All the buttons on the key fob work flawlessly (panic, unlock, lock, trunk). The red led responds on the key, and the IR shows up on an IR meter and on camera. Since this issue, my car only started ONCE with it when I took the batteries out, sprayed the board with contact cleaner, and wiggled the board a little while inserted. However, since then, it's been a complete failure in the ignition.
I also have an original key fob, which is quite worn. The plastic covering on the lock button, with the lock symbol, is completely missing leaving the contact to the board exposed. The buttons on this key DON'T work (though they did when I replaced the eis), and there is no IR response on the IR meter, and none on the camera, as well as no red LED when pressing buttons. I tried new batteries, ensured the contacts firmly held the batteries, etc, but no luck. I have yet to try cleaning this key, since it's the only one that works for me and I'm a bit cautious at the moment (the circuit board is a bit loose inside of it). However, this original key works flawlessly in the ignition.
So I had a mobile locksmith guy come out. He was frustrated and there was a miscommunication because he intended to clone one of my keys to give me a key that FULLY works. However, he could not do so, because he needs a key with a functioning IR response (buttons pressed), that also works in the ignition!
You see this is where the problem lies: The newer fob has functioning IR but does not work in the ignition, and the original fob works in the ignition but doesn't have functioning/measureable IR.
I need some advice: should I have this mechanic remove my eis as he recommended, to make the new key, which would cost quite a bit (Is this really the only option?)
or, is there any other way to clone a new key from either of the fobs I'm dealing with.
here's a video showing/explaining everything I wrote:
Any advice is helpful!
2 days ago this newer fob stopped reacting in the ignition. No steering wheel unlock, no lights, nothing. But, when the door is open, and I insert this key, I get a "remove key" message on the dash. All the buttons on the key fob work flawlessly (panic, unlock, lock, trunk). The red led responds on the key, and the IR shows up on an IR meter and on camera. Since this issue, my car only started ONCE with it when I took the batteries out, sprayed the board with contact cleaner, and wiggled the board a little while inserted. However, since then, it's been a complete failure in the ignition.
I also have an original key fob, which is quite worn. The plastic covering on the lock button, with the lock symbol, is completely missing leaving the contact to the board exposed. The buttons on this key DON'T work (though they did when I replaced the eis), and there is no IR response on the IR meter, and none on the camera, as well as no red LED when pressing buttons. I tried new batteries, ensured the contacts firmly held the batteries, etc, but no luck. I have yet to try cleaning this key, since it's the only one that works for me and I'm a bit cautious at the moment (the circuit board is a bit loose inside of it). However, this original key works flawlessly in the ignition.
So I had a mobile locksmith guy come out. He was frustrated and there was a miscommunication because he intended to clone one of my keys to give me a key that FULLY works. However, he could not do so, because he needs a key with a functioning IR response (buttons pressed), that also works in the ignition!
You see this is where the problem lies: The newer fob has functioning IR but does not work in the ignition, and the original fob works in the ignition but doesn't have functioning/measureable IR.
I need some advice: should I have this mechanic remove my eis as he recommended, to make the new key, which would cost quite a bit (Is this really the only option?)
or, is there any other way to clone a new key from either of the fobs I'm dealing with.
here's a video showing/explaining everything I wrote:
Any advice is helpful!
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