Oil change DIY?
06-30-2005, 01:03 PM
#26
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2011 E550, 2013 GLK
Originally Posted by JDM
..........Thanks for the charts BudC. All Data is a subscription shop data system that includes service bullitins, reference, and shop manuals. Many of the service departments and shops in this area use it. When checking for recommended alternate approved oils, it listed "MB229.3 Elf Excellium 0W-30"
wich is exaclty the opposite of your chart 229.1 wich, as you said, recommends against it. Dang it! I just filled the crank case with 0W-30. Would it hurt to run it for 5k then drain it? or had i better drain it today? Opinion?
wich is exaclty the opposite of your chart 229.1 wich, as you said, recommends against it. Dang it! I just filled the crank case with 0W-30. Would it hurt to run it for 5k then drain it? or had i better drain it today? Opinion?
Just a little history. There are Base 3 type oils (petroleum base), Base 4 oils and Base 5 oils. Base 4 (Mobil 1 0W-40) and Base 5 (Redline oils) are true synthetics. Base 3 oils are not. Anyway, Castrol began making motor oils that are a Base 3 type. They called these oils a true synthetic. Mobil sued them but the courts said they could call them anything they liked. The Petroleum Institute agreed.
So in order to compete with these oils that were cheaper to manufacture, Mobil changed their 30 weight oils to a Base 3.
You can use anything in the 229.1 or 229.5 lists (notice that there are no Mobil 1 30 weights in those lists).
I will use Mobil 1 0W-40 in my E320 and continue to use 15W-50 Mobil 1 in my 300E.
06-30-2005, 01:24 PM
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2011 C300
Thanks again BudC. Interesting info. I just found also that Mobil has discontinued 0W30. I found a local source for 040, and will change it out in 5k miles (unless I hear a "dont do it!") Nice research on your part. Thanks.
06-30-2005, 01:27 PM
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2011 E550, 2013 GLK
Originally Posted by Sam Samaha
good info Bud, never knew that! I used 30W Mobil 1 in my Passat for years!
06-30-2005, 04:38 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by BudC
The original 10W-30 Mobil 1 was a true synthetic. I used it in my wife's 190D in Minnesota winters.
06-30-2005, 04:46 PM
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2011 E550, 2013 GLK
Originally Posted by Incendiary
Did you switch it out from conventional? No way it came from the factory with synthetic, right?
I even used Mobil 1 synthetic transmission and differential fluids although I eventually switched back to Mercedes fluids.
06-30-2005, 05:05 PM
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04 C320 Coupe MT
Originally Posted by Gregs210
Coupla' things.
On the oil filter itself, it's a cartridge-type, not a spin-on, so it's a bit messier to deal with. Keep your hands clean or wear rubber gloves, you don't want to filth up a new filter cartridge.
The filter cover/housing cover actually looks like a filter and it's a composite, so you don't want to manhandle it. Thus, don't use a generic filter wrench to remove it, purchase a dedicated filter wrench designed for the cover. Some folks get the metal wrench, I bought a composite one for about $5 from Checker/Kragen since I'd rather use a composite wrench on a composite fitting. Some people call these "cap-style" wrenches since they slide on the end of the housing and have a wrench fitting and a square-head ratchet opening. This is additionally useful because the torque spec for the OF cover is 25 NM (about 18 ft. lbs.) and you definitely don't want to overtighten it (did I mention it's composite?).
When you get the filter -- and follow the other post advice, get the fleece one -- be sure to get a filter kit so that you get the replacement o-rings. Buy 'em online and save a few bucks per kit.
If you buy mobil1, get the 0w40, that's the only grade of mobil1 spec'd for MBZ engines. The other weights are fully synthetic but there are other additives and shear issues related to the 0w40 that are not present in the other mobil1 weights. If you don't want to run mobil1 or want to use a lower-vis oil, there are other brands that meet the MB spec in the lower weights. Me, I'm a mobil1 loyalist, became a believer with my last car.
The other consideration is whether to drain the oil or suck it out with a topsider. There are arguments both ways and if you search the forums you'll find advice both ways -- sometimes heated. Personally I'm a drainer and if you plan on draining your oil you will also need a new gasket/crush washer for the drain plug, they're about .15 on line. My preferred online suppliers, in order of preference, are www.autohausaz.com, www.autopartswarehouse.com and http://parts.mbz.org
Lastly, if you can wait a couple of weeks, by somewhat popular request I'm going to do a DIY pictorial post similar to the ones I did for steering wheels and brakes. I've got a 210 but the procedure is identical since our V6 engines are identical.
And I can't resist mentioning -- not to pat myself on the back in part because it's not as though it's an original idea and I'm sure it's on here several times -- but in one of the myriad threads on this general topic I commented on pouring the oil down the filter opening. I was happy about that because I haven't spilled a drop yet; it's easy to hit that cavernous opening.
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
On the oil filter itself, it's a cartridge-type, not a spin-on, so it's a bit messier to deal with. Keep your hands clean or wear rubber gloves, you don't want to filth up a new filter cartridge.
The filter cover/housing cover actually looks like a filter and it's a composite, so you don't want to manhandle it. Thus, don't use a generic filter wrench to remove it, purchase a dedicated filter wrench designed for the cover. Some folks get the metal wrench, I bought a composite one for about $5 from Checker/Kragen since I'd rather use a composite wrench on a composite fitting. Some people call these "cap-style" wrenches since they slide on the end of the housing and have a wrench fitting and a square-head ratchet opening. This is additionally useful because the torque spec for the OF cover is 25 NM (about 18 ft. lbs.) and you definitely don't want to overtighten it (did I mention it's composite?).When you get the filter -- and follow the other post advice, get the fleece one -- be sure to get a filter kit so that you get the replacement o-rings. Buy 'em online and save a few bucks per kit.
If you buy mobil1, get the 0w40, that's the only grade of mobil1 spec'd for MBZ engines. The other weights are fully synthetic but there are other additives and shear issues related to the 0w40 that are not present in the other mobil1 weights. If you don't want to run mobil1 or want to use a lower-vis oil, there are other brands that meet the MB spec in the lower weights. Me, I'm a mobil1 loyalist, became a believer with my last car.
The other consideration is whether to drain the oil or suck it out with a topsider. There are arguments both ways and if you search the forums you'll find advice both ways -- sometimes heated.
Personally I'm a drainer and if you plan on draining your oil you will also need a new gasket/crush washer for the drain plug, they're about .15 on line. My preferred online suppliers, in order of preference, are www.autohausaz.com, www.autopartswarehouse.com and http://parts.mbz.orgLastly, if you can wait a couple of weeks, by somewhat popular request I'm going to do a DIY pictorial post similar to the ones I did for steering wheels and brakes. I've got a 210 but the procedure is identical since our V6 engines are identical.
And I can't resist mentioning -- not to pat myself on the back in part because it's not as though it's an original idea and I'm sure it's on here several times -- but in one of the myriad threads on this general topic I commented on pouring the oil down the filter opening. I was happy about that because I haven't spilled a drop yet; it's easy to hit that cavernous opening.
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
07-01-2005, 06:09 AM
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All Diesel Fleet !1983 240d stick,2005 E320 CDI Midnight blue, 2005 E320 CDI, Desert Silver, Kubota
Vacuum Oil Extractors
Bought a Pela Extractor which is a hand driven pump deal. Took about 40 minutes to get heated oil out of my E320 CDI. I called Liquid Dynamics. They have 5 gallon capacity extractor that retails for around $400. You use your compressor to get the vacuum established then just take it to your car. It comes with a hose that already has the correct plug for the MB E320 CDI. Just plug it in to the dipstick plug and it pulls the oil out in about 3 minutes. You can then drain it into a disposable container. Works great. I called the factory direct in Wichita and spoke to a great guy who sold me a demonstrator for a little over $300. They usually don't sell retail. This is a worthwhile product. No more removing all the engine protection underneath anymore! I figure that not having to buy the crush washers for the drain plug, in about 4000 years, it will be paid for!!
07-01-2005, 10:39 AM
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'05 E320 CDI, '08 BMW X5 4.8i, '11 Duramax 2500HD
Originally Posted by jimbo1mcm
I figure that not having to buy the crush washers for the drain plug, in about 4000 years, it will be paid for!!
Lets face it, you love changing your own oil! And now at least you don't have to pay those userous prices at the dealer!
07-01-2005, 01:51 PM
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w211 & w124
So do you pump the oil out through the dipstick opening when using a topsider? I still have all my stuff from when I changed my oil on the CLK before so I'm hoping it's the same process.
Anyone know what else comes with the B Service? I'm wondering if it would be worth it to have the dealership do it although I do like feeling like I actually "worked" on my car.
Anyone know what else comes with the B Service? I'm wondering if it would be worth it to have the dealership do it although I do like feeling like I actually "worked" on my car.
07-01-2005, 02:03 PM
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04 C320 Coupe MT
Here's my quick tip to deal with the oil filter at home. Just get a large ziploc bag, pull the filter out and put it right into the bag. You can pull the filter off from the outside of the bag, and it's really clean. You can also maneuver the bag around to get the O rings off too, and then you stay clean!
At least that is the idea.
At least that is the idea.
07-01-2005, 04:24 PM
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All Diesel Fleet !1983 240d stick,2005 E320 CDI Midnight blue, 2005 E320 CDI, Desert Silver, Kubota
Oil Extraction
The tube that used to have a dispstick in it, runs just about to the bottom of the pan. If you extract the oil through there, you get out about 99% of the oil. The MB techs use an extractor similar to the one I described above, but larger. Remember the worlds's best tip from this forum: You can pour the new oil in through the filter housing when you have the filter out!!
Last edited by jimbo1mcm; 07-01-2005 at 04:26 PM.
07-01-2005, 04:33 PM
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2001 E320 (210.065), Brilliant Silver; 2002 Ducati ST-2, Arrest-me Red
Originally Posted by mbbodytech
Here's my quick tip to deal with the oil filter at home. Just get a large ziploc bag, pull the filter out and put it right into the bag. You can pull the filter off from the outside of the bag, and it's really clean. You can also maneuver the bag around to get the O rings off too, and then you stay clean!
At least that is the idea.
At least that is the idea.
) I also put on fresh gloves before installing the new filter, because I don't want any dirt on it, the o-rings or the assembly. Maybe I'm a little too worried about it, but since it's going to be in there for a long time and cycling all my engine oil through it....
