Another oil change question for E500 owners:
08-13-2005, 08:19 PM
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2004 E500
Another oil change question for E500 owners:
Yes, I know this may have been covered before, but after a quick forum search I'm still a bit confused.
1) I'd like to know where the drain plug is and whether one needs to remove any undercarriage shields to reach it. Either way, is a jack required?
2) Once the oil is drained, is all that is left to unscrew the filter housing and replace the element? Anything else?
I ask this as I'll likely do the oil as myself (can likely doi in less time than it takes to drive to the dealer. And, I am cheap!) Also, I prefer to old fashioned, non sucking the oil out way as I am of the opinion that sediment drains best when it flows down and out.
As always, thanks in advance
Jim
1) I'd like to know where the drain plug is and whether one needs to remove any undercarriage shields to reach it. Either way, is a jack required?
2) Once the oil is drained, is all that is left to unscrew the filter housing and replace the element? Anything else?
I ask this as I'll likely do the oil as myself (can likely doi in less time than it takes to drive to the dealer. And, I am cheap!) Also, I prefer to old fashioned, non sucking the oil out way as I am of the opinion that sediment drains best when it flows down and out.
As always, thanks in advance
Jim
08-13-2005, 08:56 PM
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2011 E550, 2013 GLK
Jim,
There is an encapsulation panel under the engine that has to be removed. I don't know if you can get to it w/o lifting the car. I could get the panel off on my 190E and 300E w/o lifting the car but I haven't tried it on my E320.
As for *draining the old way*. I've been changing oil myself longer than I care to admit and always felt like you do. However, I think that you can actually get as much or more out using an extraction device. The problem is that the cheap devices are more trouble than their worth. Mine broke the first time I tried using it and it took me far longer to extract the oil on the 300E than it did by just taking off the panel.
There is one thing about the new cars that I don't like. They've removed the rubber bumpers that I used to use for jack stands so if you use the jack to lift the car there is no place for the jack stand. Just another example of cost cutting.
Let us know how you make out. Unfortunately, I can no longer kneel so I can no longer get under the car.
There is an encapsulation panel under the engine that has to be removed. I don't know if you can get to it w/o lifting the car. I could get the panel off on my 190E and 300E w/o lifting the car but I haven't tried it on my E320.
As for *draining the old way*. I've been changing oil myself longer than I care to admit and always felt like you do. However, I think that you can actually get as much or more out using an extraction device. The problem is that the cheap devices are more trouble than their worth. Mine broke the first time I tried using it and it took me far longer to extract the oil on the 300E than it did by just taking off the panel.
There is one thing about the new cars that I don't like. They've removed the rubber bumpers that I used to use for jack stands so if you use the jack to lift the car there is no place for the jack stand. Just another example of cost cutting.
Let us know how you make out. Unfortunately, I can no longer kneel so I can no longer get under the car.
08-14-2005, 07:14 PM
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EQS 450 4Matic SUV
Getting to the drain plug...
I recently changed the oil on my 2005 E500 4matic. I drove the car up on a pair of plastic Rhino ramps in order to remove the plastic panel. I don't think you can reach the screws at the rear of the panel without raising the car. The oil drain plug on my 113.969 engine is on the front passenger side. While the car was raised, I loosened the drain plug and then lightly snugged it back up. I lowered the car back to the ground in order to suck the oil out. With the car lowered and the plastic panel removed, I was able to reach under the front and remove the drain plug. After sucking out the oil from the top I only got another 150ml when I removed the drain plug. This was my first oil change on this car and I wanted to verify how well the extraction tool worked.
There is not much clearance between the chassis and the drain plug. I think the oil would spray all over the frame if you drain the entire 8 quarts from the bottom. I used a Mityvac (air compressor version) and it took 5 minutes to drain the oil through the dipstick tube. I purchased the 8.8 liter Mityvac
online for about $75.
There is not much clearance between the chassis and the drain plug. I think the oil would spray all over the frame if you drain the entire 8 quarts from the bottom. I used a Mityvac (air compressor version) and it took 5 minutes to drain the oil through the dipstick tube. I purchased the 8.8 liter Mityvac
online for about $75.
Originally Posted by JWS3
Yes, I know this may have been covered before, but after a quick forum search I'm still a bit confused.
1) I'd like to know where the drain plug is and whether one needs to remove any undercarriage shields to reach it. Either way, is a jack required?
2) Once the oil is drained, is all that is left to unscrew the filter housing and replace the element? Anything else?
I ask this as I'll likely do the oil as myself (can likely doi in less time than it takes to drive to the dealer. And, I am cheap!) Also, I prefer to old fashioned, non sucking the oil out way as I am of the opinion that sediment drains best when it flows down and out.
As always, thanks in advance
Jim
1) I'd like to know where the drain plug is and whether one needs to remove any undercarriage shields to reach it. Either way, is a jack required?
2) Once the oil is drained, is all that is left to unscrew the filter housing and replace the element? Anything else?
I ask this as I'll likely do the oil as myself (can likely doi in less time than it takes to drive to the dealer. And, I am cheap!) Also, I prefer to old fashioned, non sucking the oil out way as I am of the opinion that sediment drains best when it flows down and out.
As always, thanks in advance
Jim
08-15-2005, 12:51 PM
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11 ML350W2 / 17 GLC300
JWS3,
If you do remove the drain plug, remember to replace the coppper crush ring (washer) and the torque for the drain plug is 25 nm (18 lb.ft.). You really don't want to over torque that plug and strip the aluminum sump threads!
Jim
If you do remove the drain plug, remember to replace the coppper crush ring (washer) and the torque for the drain plug is 25 nm (18 lb.ft.). You really don't want to over torque that plug and strip the aluminum sump threads!
Jim
