Has anyone installed a bluetooth phone kit in their w211? if so is it connected to the command system? which one did you install?

 

When I picked up my '05 yesterday, I saw and ad for a BT kit. When I asked about it, I was told that it was an aftermarket one that only integrated with the microphone and that MB was unaware of a fully Command\address book integrated one at this time. I was told that they were working on a full solution but there was no information if this was to be an add-on kit or integrated in new vehicles only. Also no ETA. Sorry, wish I had more info myself...

 

Adding a Bluetooth Wireless Hands free system Published on Saturday, January 15, 2005 by pchansen1Discuss this topic !



This is the finished product. It works with a Motorola V551 or any other Bluetooth enabled phone. This system will couple with your phone and basically be able assume the functions of you phone including voice dial without ever making a physical connection.
The model number for the hands free kit is: Motorola Car Kit with Bluetooth Wireless Technology 98500 S9642A


I found the best price here http://www.cellularking.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=S9642&Categor y_Code=HEAD

I also installed a noise suppressor from crutchfield.com You can view it here
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-TIFsL7BrGtI/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=181150&I=003S15A&search=noise

I started a thread in the w140 forum with more info- just do a search in that forum with the keyword "Bluetooth" and it should pop up.



This is the wiring diagram for the back of the radio head unit. You'll need to tap into:
3- muting 12z (-)
4- constant 12v (+)
7- switched 12v (+)
8- ground 12v (-)


A
1 Speed-sensitive volume control
2 Not used
3 Muting by telephone system
4 Permanent plus (circuit 30)
5 Automatic antenna control
Control signal for left/right audio power amplifier (40/3)
6 Illumination (circuit 58)
7 Switched plus (circuit 15)
8 Ground (circuit 31)




Here I've removed the lower right dash cover (detailed info available at ALLDATADIY.com), glove box insert, right speaker grill, right air register and associated ducting. This exposes the mounting area where the base module will go. I mounted mine up and behind the passenger airbag module with two-sided sticky tape. This is special tape I foun at Radio Shack. It's so strong that it warns that there will be surface damage if you try to remove it once the tape has cured. Good stuff but be sure of you mounting before you press it into place.



Here's a few more. The unit to the left of the base unit is a noise suppressor. I had a little engine noise bleed though and this took care of the problem. You can find them at crutchfield.com



This shows the right speaker. I soldered the speaker leads from the hands free base unit to the speaker posts. The two dash speakers are wired in parallel and allows both speakers to be wired up as soon as this connection is made. Don't forget to disconnect the old cell amp located on the left side of the trunk. You'll want to disconnect both the four pin power supply and the 12 pin data cable to the amp. This will prevent feedback from the amp as it is still connected to the speakers.



This shows the various panels and modules I've removed to gain the access needed to perform the install.



This is a picture of the connection I cobbled together to tap into the stock microphone. The stock mic jack is located plugged into the original keypad. Once the keypad and associated support brackets are removed, the whole upper glove box Assembly can be removed by following the instructions at ALLDATADIY.com. This allows the original 12pin connectors and the mic jack to be pushed back through the hole in the back and down into the right lower foot well. I cut the heads off the 12pin connectors to make the job easier. This is also the time to push the hands free control untit plug through and down into the footwell as well.



On to the wood work. Here's a picture showing the relation between the old keypad and the new faceplate. The faceplate is made by laminating burl walnut veneer to a piece of 3x10" 3/8" plywood. After some experimentation, I ended up using two coats of red mahogany stain to copy the car's color. Using the keypad as a template, rip the long sides at a 30 degree bevel and cut to length using a chop saw. Don't forget to make little dimples in your faceplate so you can insert probes in the top of the face plate so you can remove it if necessary. I cut a 1/2" dado into the underside faceplate so the plate would mount flush to the plastic bracket. Be careful not to take off too much material off your plate or the veneer will crack due to bending.












To cut the hole to match the control unit, scan the unit onto a piece of paper (Before you run the control unit's wire through the car- it makes it awfully difficult to scan). Cover the face plate (veneer side) with masking tape and use the paper template to either draw the outline or simply tape the image to the faceplate. Use a scroll saw to cut the hole. Stay inside the lines and use a dremel tool with a sanding drum to put the finishing touches on the cutout. Try to bevel the hole so the control unit sets in and doesn't slide all the way through.
This picture shows the faceplate being covered in a two-part epoxy based product called "Pour-On" by EnviroTex Lite. I got mine at a local craft store. Their phone number is (707) 443-9323. Get the High Gloss Finish. Follow the directions explicitly and make sure that your faceplate is exactly level because you literally pour the product on and if it's not level, the product will run off the low side and give you an ugly result. Try to do this in a dust free environment. Once mine had started to set up, I moved it to an ice chest and closed the lid. The stuff is workable for up to an hour so don't worry about moving it after about 15-20 minutes- it will seek it's own level again. It takes about 24 hours before you should handle it. Thread the control unit through the metal support structure that mounts to the back of the upper glove box, then through the plastic clip that your faceplate will mount to (you'll have to cut a hole in the back of this so the control unit will fit through. Then through the wooden faceplate. On the back of the faceplate, I attached a strip of brass with small screws (make sure the screw aren't too long or they'll pop through your finished product- that would suck!)Once the brass plate is secured- I used that same double-sided sticky tape to mount the control unit to the brass backing plate. Screw the plastic support structure to the wood face plate-again being careful of screw length and slide the assembly into the metal support structure you screwed into the back of the upper glove box. When it clicks into place you done! If you forgot to put dimples into the faceplate so you can access the clips that hold the unit together- it ain't ever coming out!



Here's a a closeup showing a little more detail. This was a very satisfying and fun project and with a little patience you will be handsomely rewarded. If anyone needs additional help, feel free to email me at pchansen@comcast.net.

 

thanks for that info, but I have the command system, I don't think your solution would work for me, has anyone done a command install or does anyone know who could do one in the NY/NJ area?

 

kort677,

Bluetooth kit with COMAND integration? There's no such animal.

The best I was able to do was integrate the bluetooth kit with the E's mic and speaker.

The kit in question is the RAYTell 4000

Cost:
Kit: $450
Install: $150, in the NYC area.

 

the Parrot CK3100 works great. check out this write up and pics from fazooley when he got his:

https://mbworld.org/forums/cls-coupe-c219/110474-parrot-ck3100-chromes.html

 

where exactly are you located? i could recommend a few places to you. btw, it doesnt matter if you have comand or not with these aftermarket bluetooth kits, they just get wired to go thru the stock speakers not the comand.

 

I'm in monmouth county, thanks

 

Brooklybnz,

Can you post the contact(s) on this thread. I'm in NJ as well and am intersted.

thx!

aceman