I know that Albert have had or still has some problems getting the steering wheels. I placed an order back in August and was told that he received the wrong wheels and is waiting on a new delivery. Has anyone whol placed an order back then and did not opt for getting their money back received a steering wheel?

I understand that a supplier can have delivery problems but 2 months?? Anyway, I just wanted to ping y'all and get a feeling for what the situation is.

 

I gave up on Albert, I ended up going with a MP Design Ergo which should be here this week. You may want to just order one from Steve for a few bucks more, you wont' wait as long. I'll post some Pic's once I get mine installed hopefully this weekend.

 

Well just today I an email from Albert saying that his supplier shipped yesterday and that he should have them by Monday. So hopefully I should have my wheel mid-end next week if everything goes well.

I admit that I started to look around for another one but didn't find an OEM MB wheel on Ebay. The ones on Ebay wasn't OEM and I didn't care much for the look.

 

I think a few ammendments will be helpful.

The "tools required" is accurate however a #27 torx was difficult to locate and the back of the wheel steps down to a smaller diameter about 1" inside the rubber making a bit with an extension difficult (impossible) to stuff in there. So a trip to Sears produced a screwdriver type 27 torx that was too long to clear the dash. Hacksaw removed the handle to the shank. I had to turn the wheel 90 degrees even then to get the shortened shaft in. You will need a 6" extension to the socket wrench. I used a 1/2" with a 3/8" reducer to get the extra handle length. Even then holding the wheel and trying to apply torque to the hex bolt was difficult. I had to saw off a piece of 1x2 and make a leg to the floorboard to support the extension shaft.This keeps the extension from trying to move off of centerline toward the floor. The wheel comes off easily but note the position of the old one because it is possible to put the new wheel on off center. Also, the power supply does not "pull right off". It has a small latch that must be pried up with a very small screwdriver or knife. I too left the battery energized but I was nervous the whole time I was trying to disconnect / reconnect the power. The plastic connectors go through the LARGER of the two odd shaped holes near the spline shaft. Other than that everything is as described above. I really think M-B could raise the price of the cars another few bucks to avoid all of this. The wood wheel should be standard IMHOP

 

I got the wheel from Albert today (arrived Wed but I was out of town for TG) and the color matches and it is looking good. Now I just need to stop by Sears to get the T27 to get the airbag off.

If you plan on ordering from Albert I suggest that you ask him first if he can deliver. I am not sure if all the delivery problems have been resolved.

 

Make sure to post pics when you're done. As this is on my short list of next mods.

 

Compared to when I installed BIX lights on the car this was a walk in the park. The hardest part was loosening the Torx screws to get the airbag off. The hex bolt holding the wheel in place was a breeze.

It is looking good and all colors is matching!

 

I couldn't wait any longer for Albert. I decided on the MP Design Ergo in Burl/Leather. Cost a few more bucks but the wheel is much thicker and has the sport grips for handling. The wheel makes an unbelievable difference in the drive and handling of the car. Best mod I have done to date.!

As others have stated it is a bi*** to get the center bolt loose but with a breaker bar and 2 feet of 2" cast iron pipe it finally budged. I will post some pictures later tomorrow of the finished install.

 

Very nice combination. I was checking on that guy site but couldnt find the color that match my interior..I got the Granite type greenish and dirty white interior..can somebody provide me with the right seller.

 

What color is your interior?

 

Does anyone happen to have the pics from this D.I.Y?

I'm having a hard time finding the proper tool to loosen the 2 T27 bolts behind the wheel. Seems like you need a T27 deep well socket. But it can't be too long because there isn't much room between the wheel and the dashboard.

Any suggestions from the people that have done this? Possibly a picture of the tool that I need.

Thanks.

 

What happen to all the DIY pictures?? Please repost the pictures, please!!

 

PM sent Benz O, for the rest of you this is the tool I used:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Allen-ZT-4000-To...QQcmdZViewItem

Well...modified, take it apart (2 allen screws) and use just the T27, it is too short to use when attached to all those others. You can get leverage on it by putting a screwdriver through the hole that is on the end of it.

 

I had the same problem getting to the torx screws in the back of the wheel.
I went to Sears and bought a T27 screwdriver. Took a hacksaw and cut the plastic handle off just above the shank. Move the wheel up or down as far as it will go to get the max clearance. You can put enough torque on the remainder of the handle to do the job.

 

Where does one go to have a torque wrench re-calibrated?

 

Well,

I went to Sears and purchased a switchblade style torx tool, like the one mbuskuhl found on ebay. It was 5 bucks. I also found a #10 hex socket for the main steering bolt for $5.69. I called my dealer to see how much they would charge to install it, since it's a 15 minute job. I was told 1 hour's labor minimum, or about 120.00, no thanks.

I've already tried to see if the torx tool will fit behind the steering wheel and it will. I was able to break loose one of the bolts while sitting in the Sears parking lot. I'll try the complete install tonight when I get home from work. Hopefully I'll be able to break loose that #10 bolt by myself. We'll see.

 

I know this will sound Mickey Mouse but it works. Use at least a 6" extension on the ratchet. Find a piece of wood (I used a 2x2) and cut it to length so that it lines up with the axis of the drive extension when engaged and fits tight to the floor board. You could whittle a notch to seat the drive extension if you want to make sure it does not wander. Grab the wheel with your left hand and haul down on the ratchet with your right. The stick will keep the drive extension perpendicular to the face of the hub. Mine was torqued down and loctited really well. Course if you have a buddy and you can both get to it, holding the wheel will work too. I WOULD NOT trust the wheel lock to withstand the strain. Good Luck. When your friends can't change a light bulb and your wife is a prima dona, you have to get creative.

 

Well,

I got the airbag off. Wasn't hard, but it's pretty scary your first time. I didn't disconnect the battery and always had that feeling in my gut that the airbag was gonna explode and knock my head clear off of my shoulders and into the back seat.

Anyway, I went to loosen the #10 hex bolt and it's super tight, of course. I went to get my breaker bar and I couldn't find it anywhere. I was running out of time because I have to run errands with my wife tonight for Thanksgiving so I just put the airbag back in until this weekend. If you have all of your tools ready to go, it really is a 15 minute job at the most.

I'll employ my neighbor to help me hold the wheel because it really is on there super tight. I'll try to remember to snap some pics since the ones that the original poster had up are now deleted.

 

way off topic but...

http://www.teamtorque.com/images/pdf...quepricing.pdf

and now back to steering wheels...

 

get the T27 with a deep shank and rubber handle. then cut the excess rubber off of the handle to metal shank.

 

Any reason why the photos don not show up on your post anymore??