jimbo1mcm

Got my pads and tools and my DIY Forum guide and was going to do the brakes today. Got the wheel off and the front rotor was very different than the one shown in the guide ( iceman, etc). No easy way to pop out pins and remove a holding spring. Not having enough info, I beat a hasty retreat. I ordered a 3 DVD set of Benz Repair( OEM ) from the internet for about $15 plus shipping. I will look at that and see if I can figure it out. If anyone has done the newer Benz E320 brakes, let me know.

lkchris

Forget to disable SBC and you'll be sorry (if not also injured).

pfphipps

I believe the pictures shown in the different threads are of E500s. I think the CDI calipers are like the gas E320 and they are different from the E500 calipers. Slightly different procedure but not that different. As stated, disabling the SBC is still a requirement and a big one.

jimbo1mcm

I did disable the SBC by pulling up the cap retainer and sliding it backward. I then placed a small piece of cardboard in the space to absolutely make sure there was no possibility of the contacts touching while I worked. Once I get these new repair DVD's maybe I can post a procedure for these new calipers.

X72

Check out the following thread from the mercedes forums at tech.bentleypublishers.com while you wait for your DVD's

http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/th...4065&tstart=15

There are links to diagrams for rear brake replacement and for deactivating/activating SBC without Star diagnosis in a thread there. The rear brake procedure may help you make sense of your front brakes. I haven't had to do the front brakes yet and I am at 67k miles. I have an 03 E320 and it does not have the same front brakes as shown

I recently replaced the rear brakes. I put the car up on four jack stands so I could turn the front left wheels in the manner described in the thread I mentioned above to start the new pad initialization sequence. The turning of the wheels (and the turning the key to the run position, off, and to the run postion again) is the signal to initialize new pads.

I did not disconnect the SBC plug. Worked perfectly. No warning signals in my case. I could hear the system working after turning the wheels. The rear lights flashed and then flashed again after nearly a minute.

I replaced the rear disc rotors. If replacing the rotors on the rear brake, I found it easier to just remove the entire caliper and not follow the procedure shown in the tech.bentleypublishers.com for just replacing pads. The pad carrier is held with Torx screws; do not remove the rubber caps like it says too in the rear brake pdf since it makes your life harder. Like I said, I found it easier to remove the bolts and leave the pads in place (not remove the Torx screws), then use the C-clamp to push the pison back, and then replace the pads

Getting the rotors off required some liquid wrench and some light to moderate tapping with a hammer. I was able to use the same wear sensor that was in the pad. You need a Torx screw driver to remove the screw that holds the disc rotor in place.

good luck,
William
2003 E320

KosherBenz

after how many miles are you doing your brakes?

jimbo1mcm

This is my wife's car. She sells real estate and does a lot of stop and go. The mileage is around 35,000. I have a brake measuring gage and the fronts are at around 5mm to go. At 3mm, there is very little wear left. I suppose I could wait another couple of months, but I chose to do it now. For those with 05 CDI's and similar, the brake wear gage is neat. I posted the procedure on this forum a few months ago. Still waiting for my OEM DVD's to show me exactly how to disassemble the brakes and get the pads out. By the way, the front OEM pads are thicker than the rears. Also, in her previous car, an older S Class, the brakes lasted about 20-22,000 miles.