So it starts to rain in Vegas. I've only had the E320 for a few months and this is my first opportunity to try out the wipers. Lo and behold...no worky. The wipers will do a couple of passes when I push in on the end of the stem to spray the fluid, but just turning them on in the I or II or III position doesn't do a thing. I believe they have a rain sensor, but it was raining pretty good..and nothing. Any ideas what the problem could be. I have a 03 E320 and it's out of warranty, so any home remedy would be preferred. Anyone experience anything like this? Thanks for any assistance.

 

Rain sensor is only for the first step, it should keep on working at II and III irrespectively if it was raining or not.

Odd if it wipes along with the spray function (it should but why does it not with the normal settings).

Yous should envy my place, can test vipers more frequently

 

On my 08, the Rain sensor wipers work GREAT!

EXCEPT ... that after 1,000 miles they are now doing a
“jitter bug jump” as they go back and forth when there
is just a sprinkle.

The wipers are “probably” old and dry, even tho it’s an
08.

jimm

==========

‘08 E350 Sport, P2, Black/black,Parktronic,
Voice, Bluetooth, Burl Walnut, Split rear seat,
Wood/leather steering wheel

 

Do you mean your wipers jitter and rattle when operated on a "not so wet window"? I thought that was a problem of early W211 cars and there was supposed to be a tool where they bend the wiper arms a bit and they should start moving smoothly. My car is original and has this wiper issue but it should not exist on an 08. The W221 wipers operate very smoothly.

 

Yup - my '07 E550 did that too. Both wipers would shudder in light rain. My wipers were out of also alignment - where the driver's side wiper would touch the other wiper, on the downward sweep.

Dealership adjusted the wiper alignment and then changed my wiper blades. Much better now. They also recommended that I get some 'diamond coating process' (I think that's what it's called) done on my windshield. Anyone try that?

 

Mention DTB P-B-82.30/366c to the advisor and there will be no confusion as to what needs to be done to correct it - the wiper arm angle needs to be adjusted and, if need be, the wiper blades replaced.

 

Diesel Benz,
I agree it's odd that the wipers will only swipe when using the washer function. I suspect it's a problem with the control arm. I like to tinker, so I think I'll disassemble the arm and take a look. I guess nobody else has had the same experience.

 

This happened to me yesterday too!

It was raining here in NY and i had my wipers set on intermit and it stopped working after 5 minutes. I tried turning it to I and II but still nothing. So i turned the car around back home and it started to work again. I then think it may just be a comp issue, so i drive back to work agian...then it stops working again! I turn to I and it works (Thank God!) but it stops for about a minute (three times in my 35 minute comute) and it goes agian. But just like Willscam said, when i use the push the stalk to spray, it works.

I think it may be something to do with the stalk or wiper motor. I also have a old problem when i make a left turn signal with the wipers on, the wipers stop until i complete the turn. Anyone else have issues like this?

 

That "diamond coating process" is just one of those after market items your dealer marks up 3000% and sells to you. I was told not to waste my money by other members on this forum.

 

Does anyone know where the wiper motor is? I think im going to change mine becuase it seems like the logical defect. Today, my wipers weere worse. Even on II and III, they wiped and then stopped, then didnt work for the rest of the ride home.

 

When I couldn't fix the problem myself, I ended up taking it to the dealer. They determined it was a mechanism in the stalk itself that was faulty and replaced the stalk (under warranty). Fixed the problem.

 

This is odd, I was in New York city on the 21th and it was not raining

I assume the issue is with the stalk, I've see quite a few posts about that, actually my W211 has acted shortly a couple of times.

The stalk switch info is delivered through CAN bus, if the wiper motor works in one case (like when pushing the stalk for spraying), the motor should be fine.

Some have had help from cleaning the stalk with compressed air and possibly with some appropriate cleaning spray, like the stuff used for potentiometers.

 

The wiper motor is at the engine bay, in front of the fire wall. I'm still guessing that the stalk is causing the issue in your car too. Could always check the motor though.

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp...SGR=120&SGN=05

 

Thanks for reporting this, since your first post in this thread I think a similar issue has been reported quite a few times but only a few posts confirming that changing the stalk fixed it.

 

THANKS Will! But, i thought you said your car was out of warranty? Is there a separate warranty on the wiper switch? I'm prolly way out of the limit with 96K anyways. I will see how much it is from the dealer and i will post.

 

My post was made on the 20th, but the rain was the day before, the 19th.

I put on some rainex last night because i heard its rain today, but not much rain (thank God!). It works pretty well.

 

GOT IT! The part was $90 and most dealerships don't have it in stock . I was lucky becuase we have a lot of dealerships accessible from Westchester NY AND the last one i called had it and was the cheapest! (got a quote of $120 too). The new part fixed the problem (aside from getting a new SRS malfunction???). I will take to the dealer next week too see if it's just a safety code and hope Stardiagonse will remove the malfunction.

Instructions (sorry no pics)
Tools needed:
10 mm socket (to remove battery -negative cable)
#2 Philips & Flat screw driver
T27 torx bit - get the folding set (which has a couple other sizes in it, $5 in Sears)
10 mm HEX socket (to picture it - the male version of the regular socket)

Remove steering wheel as detailed in previous thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w211/159220-wood-steering-wheel-upgrade-steps.html
(Make sure you read all the way through as there are better tips on removal later on.)

1)After you remove the steering wheel, there is a plastic plate/wheel which controls the SRS. You can notice the screwholes on the outer edge of the plate/wheel. Spin the plate around and line up the holes to the screws behind it for removal, one by one (there should be 3). Then, just use the flat head to kind of pry it out GENTLY(BECAREFUL - its plastic and the right side is where the electrical connetor is).

2) Underneath the steering column, there is another torx screw you need to remove (its the same as the one you see in the new part - its the tightening clamp contraction).

3) Remove the Cruise Control, SRS, steering wheel adjsuter and heated steering wheel switch (if equipped). These should just come right out.

4) You sould notice a phillips screw on the bottom which you need to remove.

5) Pry open the two thick aluminum clips holding the turn signal switch in place on the top left and lower right. (see new part for reference). I used a thin medium length driver which worked well. As you pry open and pull toward yourself, BECAREFUL as once you get it out, you could hit yourself in the face. The steering column cover and the switch comes out together.

6) Remove three philips screws from steering colum cover to detach from the signal switch. REMOVAL DONE!

7) Installation is reverse of removal, BUT pry apart the two thick alumimun clips on the new part before starting installation to make it easier to slide in.

Things to consider:
a) I removed my negative cable in both the front and rear battery. You probably dont have to remove it as many members have NOT removed the cable and had success. I got an SRS malfunction either way.

b) To remove the steering wheel, turn it 90 degrees before you start working on anything. It's easier to get to the torx screws out that are holding the airbag to the wheel. Remember to adjust the steering way all the way out too. There is also a metal structure plate attached inside steering wheel after you remove the airbag. Be sure to remove that as well becuase there are more electrical connectors behind that.

c) When prying apart the thick clips on the new part, becareful not to break anything.

THE REASON WHY IT BROKE:

I think this may be the case for everyone who had this problem. If you look to the wires on the old switch (red, yellow, and blue) toward the bottom of the stalk, observe the condition of the wiring. I touched the blue wire and it crumbled apart. I think the wire may have been overloaded and caused it to weaken not haveing enough electrical current to pass to the control mechanism --> therefore not working or sparatically working.

 

You are correct. The car was and is out of warranty. I have an extended warranty that covered most of the cost. This is what my service bill from my dealership shows:

Concern: wipers don't work
Cause: bad contacts
Correction: replace combi switch
Parts: spo 000 545 22 10 - $75
Shop supplies - $22.64
Labor - $226.44
Total with tax - $ 331.65

I ended up having to pay $100.84 out of pocket and the warranty paid $230.81.

 

Here's a write up I did on how to remove/replace your steering wheel.....with pics

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...highlight=wood

 

Wow, i cant beleive i didnt find your thread! That would have saved me some time. Thanks!