Air Conditioning issues!!!
You do have independant vents (pass and driver) so its NOT the vent door. That may have been the case if you had an older chevy.
Go get it topped off - usual A/C checkup is 1/2 hr labor and cost of refrigerant at dealer so you can probably get by with 100 bucks or less if you don't have a major leak.
the valves for Hi and Lo sides leak minor gas by design. make sure the caps are tight! if you put couple drops of water on them you can probably see the bubbles coming off. the tight caps keep the system sealed.
don't waste your time on diagnosing further - get refrigerant!
My E500 is blowing cold air front the center vents but both side vents (driver and passenger) are blowing hot air. Anyone else have this issue? It seems weird to have it set up like that. I figured one side would be cold while the other went hot, not hot on the outside vents and cool on the inside.
With regards to the gas, the gas were pumped out (extracted) and the system was pressure tested, and apparently it is 100%. It was refilled to the correct level and the temperature coming from the vents compared to air conditioner setting. According to the technician who worked on the car, everything is 100%. I have taken the car back and the service provider told me that the results is as good as one can get from the system and that I cannot compare this car's with another, but they do agree that it do not work effectively. They suggest that I replace all the filters. I checked all the filters, which look good in my opinion, but I tested the air conditioner with all the filters removed, without better results.
Driving home today in 19°C and the air conditioner set to the lowest setting (Lo on screen), it took about 15 minutes before I could feel that the temperature of the air starts to cool down. It is a sunny day with very low humidity, which should not be a problem for an air conditioner. My other car, a black ML270CDi, will blow cold air within 5 minutes after she stands for hours in the sun in summer on a 38°C to 43°C day, which is hot. I can not believe that all is 100% with the car's air conditioner.
I have cleaned the air conditioner's radiator (don't know the correct name) on the outside to make sure it is free from any blockages and that it can operate to its potential.
I am frustrated that the "experts" are not able to sort it out and tell me to accept that the car's air conditioner is not as effective as I would like. Any suggestion will be appreciated.
What you cleaned off is your radiator. There are two components that should be cleaned in order for refrigerant to remove heat from inside car to outside the car. That is your condenser. The second part is called your evaporator. That is what the filtered air passes over which makes the air cold. Also, did you notice what type of refrigerant was used? 134a is the proper type. Needs to have an (a) at the end. Stands for aziotropic. Never release refrigerant into the atmosphere! If caught you WILL BE FINED BY EPA! HVAC problems boil down to two types. Refrigeration and air flow. Sounds like there may be a damper in your ducting that has closed or is not open all the way. If that is the case, your condenser will not get enough hot air blowing over it for the refrigerant to"boil" into a gas. That makes for an extremely inefficient system. Find the air flow issue first. Then once air is flowing correctly, work on your refrigerant issue. Hope this helps. BTW I'm an HVAC tech certified COMMERCIAL AND RESIDENTIAL/ 3years in trade school with a 3.8GPA/ 9 years in the field. Car HVAC systems are a little different. I would take it to a different dealership. Not all car mechanics know HVAC. that is just a plain fact. It's not always a mechanical problem. If air flow is restored and you still have a cooling problem, ask dealership to have condenser and evaporator cleaned. That is imperative for an efficient system!
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