keyless go, range
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 119
Likes: 11
2010 GLK
keyless go, range
While this is happening on my 04 e320 I suppose it applies to all recent keyless go features on MBZ.
I have several issues with my keyless go. I have replaced the batteries and read many posts about the distance the fob needs to be but most are unanswered (dropped) or didn't solve my problem. I have a second key fob that had never been used that had the same results.
Symptoms:
a.) Window up/down feature from the key no longer works (at any distance)
This feature had worked at a good 10' from the car
b.) Car won't start unless you hold the key up (near the radio)...won't work laying on the center console and certainly not from my pocket like it had in the past (no cell phone on me or near the car).
Anecdotal evidence: Doors open/lock from 100' or more. Windows up/down work when you hold the handle open/close. If you listen closely when the car has been started you can hear a rhythmic chirp coming from the dash. I think that this is the EIS searching for the key. If you hold up the key close to the radio the chirping stops.
I'm interested in both the science and the DIY aspects vs. take it to the dealer and have them fix it for x$'s.
It doesn't appear to be one part of the system ie:RF vs IR since some features work while others don't:
Ignition = RF (doesn't work well)
Windows up/down = IR (doesn't work at all)
Lock/unlock = RF (works well)
I have synch'ed the windows.
I have several issues with my keyless go. I have replaced the batteries and read many posts about the distance the fob needs to be but most are unanswered (dropped) or didn't solve my problem. I have a second key fob that had never been used that had the same results.
Symptoms:
a.) Window up/down feature from the key no longer works (at any distance)
This feature had worked at a good 10' from the car
b.) Car won't start unless you hold the key up (near the radio)...won't work laying on the center console and certainly not from my pocket like it had in the past (no cell phone on me or near the car).
Anecdotal evidence: Doors open/lock from 100' or more. Windows up/down work when you hold the handle open/close. If you listen closely when the car has been started you can hear a rhythmic chirp coming from the dash. I think that this is the EIS searching for the key. If you hold up the key close to the radio the chirping stops.
I'm interested in both the science and the DIY aspects vs. take it to the dealer and have them fix it for x$'s.
It doesn't appear to be one part of the system ie:RF vs IR since some features work while others don't:
Ignition = RF (doesn't work well)
Windows up/down = IR (doesn't work at all)
Lock/unlock = RF (works well)
I have synch'ed the windows.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 119
Likes: 11
2010 GLK
konigstiger, thanks again for the PDF.
The PDF you sent me has given me a new appreciation for this feature. I did not realize how many parts involved in just setting up the array.
Do you happen to know where the rear antenna is located on a wagon? I suspect it is under one of the rear removable covers (DVD is under one of them).
I couldn't tell from the diagram but are these antenna's connected in serial, parallel or independent? I would have made them parallel but I have seen stranger things. If they are serial it might provide another clue ie: maybe one of the two antenna's used to awake the starting signal has been disconnected.
Thanks for any insight.
Do you happen to know where the rear antenna is located on a wagon? I suspect it is under one of the rear removable covers (DVD is under one of them).
I couldn't tell from the diagram but are these antenna's connected in serial, parallel or independent? I would have made them parallel but I have seen stranger things. If they are serial it might provide another clue ie: maybe one of the two antenna's used to awake the starting signal has been disconnected.
Thanks for any insight.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 119
Likes: 11
2010 GLK
Reporting back on the progress
Thanks to Konigstiger I was able to determine that I had two issues. Pretty simple when you have the detail on how it works.
Key Not Recognized problem: Since there are two antennas that can wake-up the start sequence (front and rear) I placed the key in the back (It's a wagon so my sensor is in the 'way back'). Starts every time. I'll take the ashtray out this weekend and see if the front antenna has been disconnected or something simple (or just order the part is I can't see anything wrong).
Summer feature not working: I put my keys in front of a video camera to make certain I was getting an IR signal. Both were emitting a signal but didn't tell me much about the strength. Tested the keys at various distances and found that if I held the key up to the door sensor with 1/4' or less of distance that it would work. I'm thinking that the lens on my IR sensor has become so distorted that it won't allow the signal through. This might explain why some people see varying ranges ie:if you park your car in the garage, you open the door w/o brushing up against the sensor, lower mileage ... your lens could have less damage. I'll take the IR receiver out this weekend and try polishing. Polishing plastic is kind of a trick so slow and light will be the key.
Key Not Recognized problem: Since there are two antennas that can wake-up the start sequence (front and rear) I placed the key in the back (It's a wagon so my sensor is in the 'way back'). Starts every time. I'll take the ashtray out this weekend and see if the front antenna has been disconnected or something simple (or just order the part is I can't see anything wrong).
Summer feature not working: I put my keys in front of a video camera to make certain I was getting an IR signal. Both were emitting a signal but didn't tell me much about the strength. Tested the keys at various distances and found that if I held the key up to the door sensor with 1/4' or less of distance that it would work. I'm thinking that the lens on my IR sensor has become so distorted that it won't allow the signal through. This might explain why some people see varying ranges ie:if you park your car in the garage, you open the door w/o brushing up against the sensor, lower mileage ... your lens could have less damage. I'll take the IR receiver out this weekend and try polishing. Polishing plastic is kind of a trick so slow and light will be the key.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 119
Likes: 11
2010 GLK
Follow-up from the weekend
Removed drivers side IR receiver/key lock from the door. I then removed the plastic parts on the top and bottom so I could get at the actual IR lens without effecting the painted part on the lock. Both of the plastic parts are held in by small little detents/notches that clip over the lock. Polished the lens and it looked quite clear afterwards. Tested and the performance (distance only changed a few inches) might have been negligible. Issue must be on the key side. I'm going to look at that more closely this week.
Removed ashtray to take a look at the forward antenna. Nothing disconnected, looked OK. I took the rear of the wagon apart on the drivers side to look at the aft antenna. Was hoping to find the other end of the forward antenna connection loose since the car had been repaired for a problem or two in that are (airmatic, security cover). All looked good.
Konistiger, Do you know where the forward antenna connection goes to after it leaves the module?
Removed ashtray to take a look at the forward antenna. Nothing disconnected, looked OK. I took the rear of the wagon apart on the drivers side to look at the aft antenna. Was hoping to find the other end of the forward antenna connection loose since the car had been repaired for a problem or two in that are (airmatic, security cover). All looked good.
Konistiger, Do you know where the forward antenna connection goes to after it leaves the module?
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