How to install the white license plate LED's (walk-through)
06-19-2009, 06:30 PM
#1
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How to install the white license plate LED's (walk-through)
OK! lol everyone listen up as of now and to my knowledge this is for only the w211 e classes, BUT i did install the bulbs on my cousins 08 c350 with that said... for the e class you need 39MM LED bulbs from the following website
http://autolumination.com
upon entering the website scroll down to 6418 this is the bulb size for our cars plates now it basically comes down to what bulb you like to me they all really do not make a difference when i found a thread last year when i did mine it said to use the high powered 9 led SMT festoon which will be fine,
http://superlumination.com/images/au..._smt_cw_wm.jpg
but because it was 10 dollars and i also got bulbs for under my doors and for my foot wells in the car i decided to get the bulbs below them
http://superlumination.com/images/au...bs/39_9_sw.jpg
these are the bulbs that i have in my picture they are very bright and when and if you want to install them in the car interior they are not bright because the lights dim when you close the doors and it gives a very clean dim white light in the foot areas at night it matches the e classes gauge color...
if you are either installing these bulbs to your license plate area or the foot areas it does not matter all the bulbs are 39mm and make sure to select cool white
after you chose your bulb type (i would recommend either the ones i chose or the ones the thread had said b.c. these 100% work as of the knowledge of both me and the thread) you then must purchase a resistor for each bulb you install...
on the home page of auto illumination there is another section called LED Flashers and Load Equalizers click this section and scroll down until you run across these things
http://superlumination.com/images/le..._equalizer.jpg
these are the resistors you guys need to order the one on the far left with the 100 ohms and the 10 watt LED Load Equalizer again keep in mind you will need ONE resistor for each BULB so... for your license plate you will need two...
when everything comes in the mail make sure your car lights are off and unscrew the bulb covers on your trunk...
take out the stock bulbs and put in your new bulbs (close after all work has been finished to make sure everything works properly)
then open up the trunk and take apart the cover on it there are a bunch of rivets that you need to remove all over the trunk door including two that are on the trunks arms that hold it up, then you will need a screw driver to take off the screws on the plastic covering (i have circled all of these in the pictures)
when everything is loose take off the carpeting, unclip the trunks bulb harness and the one for the trunks safety button as show below
now everything should look like this...
then you will be able to find two pairs of purple and brown wires on the left and right in the inside of the door these wires become two harness clips directly behind the bulb sockets (the ones in the pictures i have already spliced and installed the relays so yours will just be the wires)
simply unclip them and begin the work...
simply take the resistor that came in the mail (i spliced the wire and directly connected the wiring to the wire b.c. the wire taps were too big for the wire but your more than welcome to use the taps) it does not matter which wire goes to which just directly connect it to the wire one end of the resistor to the positive and one end to the negative) then replug the harnesses in go turn on your lights and wallah BRIGHT WHITE license plate lights
simply close up everything again make sure the wires are tidy and properly concealed then put everything back and they will work like a charm
http://autolumination.com
upon entering the website scroll down to 6418 this is the bulb size for our cars plates now it basically comes down to what bulb you like to me they all really do not make a difference when i found a thread last year when i did mine it said to use the high powered 9 led SMT festoon which will be fine,
http://superlumination.com/images/au..._smt_cw_wm.jpg
but because it was 10 dollars and i also got bulbs for under my doors and for my foot wells in the car i decided to get the bulbs below them
http://superlumination.com/images/au...bs/39_9_sw.jpg
these are the bulbs that i have in my picture they are very bright and when and if you want to install them in the car interior they are not bright because the lights dim when you close the doors and it gives a very clean dim white light in the foot areas at night it matches the e classes gauge color...
if you are either installing these bulbs to your license plate area or the foot areas it does not matter all the bulbs are 39mm and make sure to select cool white
after you chose your bulb type (i would recommend either the ones i chose or the ones the thread had said b.c. these 100% work as of the knowledge of both me and the thread) you then must purchase a resistor for each bulb you install...
on the home page of auto illumination there is another section called LED Flashers and Load Equalizers click this section and scroll down until you run across these things
http://superlumination.com/images/le..._equalizer.jpg
these are the resistors you guys need to order the one on the far left with the 100 ohms and the 10 watt LED Load Equalizer again keep in mind you will need ONE resistor for each BULB so... for your license plate you will need two...
when everything comes in the mail make sure your car lights are off and unscrew the bulb covers on your trunk...
take out the stock bulbs and put in your new bulbs (close after all work has been finished to make sure everything works properly)
then open up the trunk and take apart the cover on it there are a bunch of rivets that you need to remove all over the trunk door including two that are on the trunks arms that hold it up, then you will need a screw driver to take off the screws on the plastic covering (i have circled all of these in the pictures)
when everything is loose take off the carpeting, unclip the trunks bulb harness and the one for the trunks safety button as show below
now everything should look like this...
then you will be able to find two pairs of purple and brown wires on the left and right in the inside of the door these wires become two harness clips directly behind the bulb sockets (the ones in the pictures i have already spliced and installed the relays so yours will just be the wires)
simply unclip them and begin the work...
simply take the resistor that came in the mail (i spliced the wire and directly connected the wiring to the wire b.c. the wire taps were too big for the wire but your more than welcome to use the taps) it does not matter which wire goes to which just directly connect it to the wire one end of the resistor to the positive and one end to the negative) then replug the harnesses in go turn on your lights and wallah BRIGHT WHITE license plate lights
simply close up everything again make sure the wires are tidy and properly concealed then put everything back and they will work like a charmLast edited by skokkosis; 06-19-2009 at 07:35 PM.
06-19-2009, 08:44 PM
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.... nothing to brag about, it is a previous model....
Great post!
I highly recommend ALSO install capacitor for steady current and prolong bulb's life.
Those LED festoon can fail quite easily.
I highly recommend ALSO install capacitor for steady current and prolong bulb's life.
Those LED festoon can fail quite easily.
06-19-2009, 10:01 PM
#5
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i agree with no_clue i just don't know what of capacitor you would need if anyone knows tell me and i'll add it into the post with a quick edit although mine have been fine for a year interior and exterior 
06-19-2009, 10:06 PM
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07 E350 4Matic / Sport with P1
5 watt - 100 ohm
And great addl pics and excellent DIY here of capacitor install: http://mymbonline.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8144, thanks to Ali (Goliath27)
Pages 5 & 6 on this thread also have excellent close-up pictures: http://mymbonline.com/forum/viewtopi...=asc&start=250
And great addl pics and excellent DIY here of capacitor install: http://mymbonline.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8144, thanks to Ali (Goliath27)
Pages 5 & 6 on this thread also have excellent close-up pictures: http://mymbonline.com/forum/viewtopi...=asc&start=250
Last edited by SPNJHockey; 06-19-2009 at 10:19 PM. Reason: .
06-20-2009, 12:56 AM
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.... nothing to brag about, it is a previous model....
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ll-can-do.html
anyway, 5w 12v per channel,
1000µF 35V will be more than adequate.
Should be able to buy it from your local radioshack for a dollar or two.
Last edited by no_clue; 06-20-2009 at 01:06 AM.
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06-20-2009, 02:16 AM
#8
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SPNJ what no_clue is talking about is not the resistor i have stated that in my post he means to also add a capacitor to make sure they never burn out either and to keep them to full strength
06-20-2009, 10:51 AM
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1953 300 Adenauer, 1971 300 SEL 6.3, 1975 600, 1978 450 6.9
Dissenting opinion.....
While I applaud the OP for doing this project, there are a few things to think about:
Where does the heat from the caps and resistors go?
What electrical issues will rear their ugly head down the road from splicing wires?
Is the result - something you'll never see worth the work?
Will the extreme brightness of the license plate bulbs make your car a cop magnet?
Is this lighting legal in your area (see previous point) as it is, technically in violation of the FMVSS 108 and may be distracting to drivers behind you.
This isn't meant critically, just some things to think about before you do a mod like this...
Where does the heat from the caps and resistors go?
What electrical issues will rear their ugly head down the road from splicing wires?
Is the result - something you'll never see worth the work?
Will the extreme brightness of the license plate bulbs make your car a cop magnet?
Is this lighting legal in your area (see previous point) as it is, technically in violation of the FMVSS 108 and may be distracting to drivers behind you.
This isn't meant critically, just some things to think about before you do a mod like this...
06-20-2009, 11:01 AM
#10
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Thread Starter
Where does the heat from the caps and resistors go?
What electrical issues will rear their ugly head down the road from splicing wires?
Is the result - something you'll never see worth the work?
Will the extreme brightness of the license plate bulbs make your car a cop magnet?
Is this lighting legal in your area (see previous point) as it is, technically in violation of the FMVSS 108 and may be distracting to drivers behind you.
What electrical issues will rear their ugly head down the road from splicing wires?
Is the result - something you'll never see worth the work?
Will the extreme brightness of the license plate bulbs make your car a cop magnet?
Is this lighting legal in your area (see previous point) as it is, technically in violation of the FMVSS 108 and may be distracting to drivers behind you.
2. no electrical issues for a year whatsoever no warnings in my dash or any problems in that area... if problems begin at anytime to just remove the resistors and redo what you spliced add the old bulbs and everything will work like it did
3. everyone that has my car notices because the old look is a lot uglier and this takes on a newer appearance like the beemer's and the lexus's
4. perhaps the cops will be able to read the plate more, but it is not illegal i asked an officer and he said he would have thought it was stock and only the plate area is bright the lexus one is just as bright
this is just what i believe and know of thus far many people have done this mod in the forum and have had no problems with either electrical or the law
Last edited by skokkosis; 06-20-2009 at 05:52 PM.
06-20-2009, 01:47 PM
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1953 300 Adenauer, 1971 300 SEL 6.3, 1975 600, 1978 450 6.9
In the US,...
1. the caps do not cause heat they are LED's - the resistors do cause heat, but the wiring in the trunk is covered in cloth and the rest of the area is metal (your stock trunk bulb in the trunk gets A LOT hotter and it does not cause anything so i doubt the resistor will)
2. no electrical issues for a year whatsoever no warnings in my dash or any problems in that area... if problems begin at anytime to just remove the resistors and redo what you spliced add the old bulbs and everything will work like it did
3. everyone that has my car notices because the old look is a lot uglier and this takes on a newer appearance like the beemer's and the lexus's
4. perhaps the cops will be able to read the plate more, but it is not illegal i asked an officer and he said he would have though it was stock and only the plate area is bright the lexus one is just as bright
this is just what i believe and know of thus far many people have done this mod in the forum and have had no problems with eitehr electrical or the law
2. no electrical issues for a year whatsoever no warnings in my dash or any problems in that area... if problems begin at anytime to just remove the resistors and redo what you spliced add the old bulbs and everything will work like it did
3. everyone that has my car notices because the old look is a lot uglier and this takes on a newer appearance like the beemer's and the lexus's
4. perhaps the cops will be able to read the plate more, but it is not illegal i asked an officer and he said he would have though it was stock and only the plate area is bright the lexus one is just as bright
this is just what i believe and know of thus far many people have done this mod in the forum and have had no problems with eitehr electrical or the law
06-20-2009, 05:26 PM
#12
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i agree ceb i do not want to be at fault for anyone that may do this mod in stricter areas or states, but mine has been working perfect ever since i put it in :]
06-20-2009, 05:27 PM
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2003 E240
...the light output of license plate lamps is governed by SAE J587 (October 1981.) The light output here exceeds those limits and may be distracting to other drivers - your local authorities are the ones that enforce these laws so YMMV. One other thing to consider is that the manufacturer has designed the lighting units to dissipate the heat of the bulbs - the trunk and trunk cladding are not designed for that and a resistor in that area may cause issues...
Secondly, no cop will know that rule and since a lot of expensive cars are starting to do it they will not do anything about it. That is not a guarantee but it is close to a certainty. This light probably slightly exceeds the limit, but with no comparison light beside it no one would be able to tell the difference. It would only be a concern if you were driving a 93 RX7 1cm off the ground with matte black paint and a trail of white powder following your car and police were already trying to bust you.
Thirdly, for the first month I would keep an eye on it, it only takes 10 minutes to take the carpeting off if you are useless like me. Check for any melting, burning, etc. Try and check it after a long night drive to smell for any burning as well. This modification is hardly going to short out the entire wiring system in your car, at most the wire will burn and the light will go out and you can simply replace the wiring? As is my understanding with most electrical modifications? Please correct me if I'm wrong. Or the plastic covering unit will burn and melt, they cost about $2 (I broke one from being silly lol
)
06-20-2009, 05:54 PM
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2003 E240
lol yeah I hope I didn't come off as a bully I just really meant to say that there is no real concern for this, in comparison something that would warrant this kind of debate would be putting on 20 inch wheels with your springs cut in half and whether this would damage your suspension lol
06-20-2009, 05:56 PM
#16
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i agree once again... it just comes down to if you like it and you want to take the "risk" do it we're all giving our opinions no one's being a bully we just want to help out everyone (that is the point of the forum lol)
06-20-2009, 05:59 PM
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1953 300 Adenauer, 1971 300 SEL 6.3, 1975 600, 1978 450 6.9
By looking at the OP's last photo...
Firstly, you will probably never see the results whilst you are driving unless there is some sort of gigantic mirror, but you know it looks nicer, hence why you do it. The same pretty much goes for 19"/20" wheels, AMG body kit, HID conversion, and generally any exterior modification that you cannot see inside the car.
Secondly, no cop will know that rule and since a lot of expensive cars are starting to do it they will not do anything about it. That is not a guarantee but it is close to a certainty. This light probably slightly exceeds the limit, but with no comparison light beside it no one would be able to tell the difference. It would only be a concern if you were driving a 93 RX7 1cm off the ground with matte black paint and a trail of white powder following your car and police were already trying to bust you.
Thirdly, for the first month I would keep an eye on it, it only takes 10 minutes to take the carpeting off if you are useless like me. Check for any melting, burning, etc. Try and check it after a long night drive to smell for any burning as well. This modification is hardly going to short out the entire wiring system in your car, at most the wire will burn and the light will go out and you can simply replace the wiring? As is my understanding with most electrical modifications? Please correct me if I'm wrong. Or the plastic covering unit will burn and melt, they cost about $2 (I broke one from being silly lol)
Secondly, no cop will know that rule and since a lot of expensive cars are starting to do it they will not do anything about it. That is not a guarantee but it is close to a certainty. This light probably slightly exceeds the limit, but with no comparison light beside it no one would be able to tell the difference. It would only be a concern if you were driving a 93 RX7 1cm off the ground with matte black paint and a trail of white powder following your car and police were already trying to bust you.
Thirdly, for the first month I would keep an eye on it, it only takes 10 minutes to take the carpeting off if you are useless like me. Check for any melting, burning, etc. Try and check it after a long night drive to smell for any burning as well. This modification is hardly going to short out the entire wiring system in your car, at most the wire will burn and the light will go out and you can simply replace the wiring? As is my understanding with most electrical modifications? Please correct me if I'm wrong. Or the plastic covering unit will burn and melt, they cost about $2 (I broke one from being silly lol
)Unfortunately, a botched install here could cause much more than a melted lamp base - I recall one VW owner who painted a sidemarker light that shorted the base and resulted in a fried wiring harness - to the tune of $2500.
The object of my initial post was not to dissuade anyone from doing that mod - just to make them aware of possible problems and to remember - "you've got to pay to play..."
06-20-2009, 06:04 PM
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my tail lights are smoked 
im just messn' with you thats why i said this is the point of a forum and once again.... LED's do not emit heat the resistor does and it's not even that hot to cause any melting imo
im just messn' with you thats why i said this is the point of a forum and once again.... LED's do not emit heat the resistor does and it's not even that hot to cause any melting imo
06-21-2009, 02:36 AM
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second that
btw.. i saw an m3 tonight and its license plates were white stock just as bright as mine (i asked him b.c. i was amazed at their brightness)
btw.. i saw an m3 tonight and its license plates were white stock just as bright as mine (i asked him b.c. i was amazed at their brightness)
06-21-2009, 07:51 AM
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W210 E55, W211 E3504M, E90 325i
I've just installed the pure plug and play ECS tuning bulbs. Installation is a simple matter of following the owner's manual for bulb replacement.
They are noticeably brighter than stock but I don't think they could be considered distracting or blinding to other motorists. These bulbs point downwards remember.
They are a bit flashy however.
Heatwise, the bulbs have built in heatsinks. I've had them for sometime on my BMW with no ill effect thats why I'm happy with these bulbs.
They are noticeably brighter than stock but I don't think they could be considered distracting or blinding to other motorists. These bulbs point downwards remember.
They are a bit flashy however.
Heatwise, the bulbs have built in heatsinks. I've had them for sometime on my BMW with no ill effect thats why I'm happy with these bulbs.
06-25-2009, 09:17 AM
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w211 E500
Thanks To This Dude I Did Mines!!
I Just Got Lucky And Didn't Have To Pull Anything Apart....My Bulbs Went Right In And Worked.......If Anyone Is Looking For Bulbs For Their W211 PM Me And Let Me Know....ON TO MY PICS...
06-26-2009, 02:44 AM
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E320
I would like to share my experience with mbworld today. Maybe somebody can help me with my current problem.
Ok. I tried doing this today using No_clue's method in this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ll-can-do.html
Exact same parts, 36 inch led festoons, radio shack 100 ohm resistors, down to the exact change paid for these parts. As no_clue had illustrated, I only took out the left side bulb wires, stripped them (wire strippers to seperate the rubber, wife's cuticle nippers to pry it out) and connected a resister to those wires, one end to the +, one end to the -. Turned on my headlights, left light had no IC error, but the right did. So I did the right side also. Rinse and repeat, so now, I have both sides showing up in my IC. What did I do wrong???
Ok. I tried doing this today using No_clue's method in this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ll-can-do.html
Exact same parts, 36 inch led festoons, radio shack 100 ohm resistors, down to the exact change paid for these parts. As no_clue had illustrated, I only took out the left side bulb wires, stripped them (wire strippers to seperate the rubber, wife's cuticle nippers to pry it out) and connected a resister to those wires, one end to the +, one end to the -. Turned on my headlights, left light had no IC error, but the right did. So I did the right side also. Rinse and repeat, so now, I have both sides showing up in my IC. What did I do wrong???
06-26-2009, 03:05 AM
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.... nothing to brag about, it is a previous model....
I would like to share my experience with mbworld today. Maybe somebody can help me with my current problem.
Ok. I tried doing this today using No_clue's method in this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ll-can-do.html
Exact same parts, 36 inch led festoons, radio shack 100 ohm resistors, down to the exact change paid for these parts. As no_clue had illustrated, I only took out the left side bulb wires, stripped them (wire strippers to seperate the rubber, wife's cuticle nippers to pry it out) and connected a resister to those wires, one end to the +, one end to the -. Turned on my headlights, left light had no IC error, but the right did. So I did the right side also. Rinse and repeat, so now, I have both sides showing up in my IC. What did I do wrong???
Ok. I tried doing this today using No_clue's method in this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ll-can-do.html
Exact same parts, 36 inch led festoons, radio shack 100 ohm resistors, down to the exact change paid for these parts. As no_clue had illustrated, I only took out the left side bulb wires, stripped them (wire strippers to seperate the rubber, wife's cuticle nippers to pry it out) and connected a resister to those wires, one end to the +, one end to the -. Turned on my headlights, left light had no IC error, but the right did. So I did the right side also. Rinse and repeat, so now, I have both sides showing up in my IC. What did I do wrong???
You might want to follow OP's instruction for W211.
p.s. just curious, what if you remove left-side resistor?
Last edited by no_clue; 06-26-2009 at 03:08 AM.
