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DIY: Replacing lower ball joint in W211

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E-Class (W211) 2003-2009
Old 06-24-2015, 02:03 PM
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DIY: Replacing lower ball joint in W211

 
Old 05-31-2016, 04:24 AM
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Here is a video I made of how to fix the infamous w211 suspension squeak coming from the lower ball joints, I change the lower ball joints and the control arms in this video.

Last edited by Richardmozis; 05-31-2016 at 04:29 AM.
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Old 05-31-2016, 01:51 PM
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Fantastic DIY. I make a number of DIYs myself and know how much effort it takes. Video was awesome ... Thanks!
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Old 06-01-2016, 08:03 AM
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Can someone give me a link to a ball joint separator for a 2003 E320? The ones i'm finding on ebay, according to the seller, are not working for my car.

Thanks..
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Old 06-01-2016, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by plasma View Post
Can someone give me a link to a ball joint separator for a 2003 E320? The ones i'm finding on ebay, according to the seller, are not working for my car.

Thanks..
Separator or ball joint press two different tools?

This is the press I got and it works perfectly.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Ben...965451&vxp=mtr
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Old 06-01-2016, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by nivram13 View Post
Separator or ball joint press two different tools?

This is the press I got and it works perfectly.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Ben...965451&vxp=mtr
I actually need the separator not the press.
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Old 06-24-2016, 11:37 PM
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Awesome writeup, I'm doing this tomorrow.. thanks fellas!
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Old 10-20-2016, 12:51 PM
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MB shop had quoted me $990 (Labor Only) for R/L lower control arms and ball joint replacement. This is my next project. DIYs in this forum saving me all kinds of money. Thank you for this great info.
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Old 10-24-2016, 08:25 PM
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I've done a couple sets of these now and they get easier each time, you still have to wrestle with the breaker bar to force the joints.

One tip that really helped me out was to turn the streeing wheel either inward to either the right for the right side or to left if working on the left side to get you more room when removing the ball joint. When you need to pull the ball joint clear of the steering knuckle first straighten the steering wheel, this made pulling the joint under and out to the side so much easier and just reverse this process when you need to put the ball joint back.

I still haven't got used to noise and shattering of when you break those joints, they really do sound like something exploded.
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Old 10-26-2016, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Gangrene3075 View Post
MB shop had quoted me $990 (Labor Only) for R/L lower control arms and ball joint replacement. This is my next project. DIYs in this forum saving me all kinds of money. Thank you for this great info.
900?!?! that's insane. YES do them yourself!
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Old 05-06-2017, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Richardmozis View Post
Here is a video I made of how to fix the infamous w211 suspension squeak coming from the lower ball joints, I change the lower ball joints and the control arms in this video.
Mercedes W211 Suspension Squeak Fix | Ball Joint & Control Arm DIY - YouTube
Is the alignment is required after this

Thanks
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Old 05-06-2017, 04:10 PM
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I replaced both upper and lower ball joints and other suspension components. Took it in for an alignment and everything was within limits. Not saying everyone's will be like this.

John
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Old 05-06-2017, 06:38 PM
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I find that the OEM/ Lemforder ball joints aren't that great to begin with. If you do a lot of city driving with pot holes and such they're barely making it to 50k which is pathetic in my opinion. Same goes for the upper ball joints and lower control arm with the ball joint. I use to work for an independent shop and would see this regularly between w211s and Chrysler LX chassis cars (300, charger, magnum)

I got sick of using these parts that don't last long enough and replaced my lower ball joints with Moog greasable ball joints from a Chrysler 300c. The Chrysler LX chassis is based off the w211's so there is a lot of similarities in parts. The ball joints from the 300c are a bit of a heavier build. The upper ball joint and lower control arm are different on the Chrysler LX so I got new Lemforder upper ball joints and lower control arms and drilled them both out and added grease fittings and made a tiny hole in the dust boots by heating up a needle to release any extra grease so the boot doesn't tear.

Now I just grease them every oil change and haven't had a problem in the last 40k I've had them on. No play, no squeaks and no torn dust boots yet.
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Old 05-06-2017, 07:34 PM
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I should have mentioned that I replaced with all MOOG parts also.

John
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Old 05-06-2017, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by hangit06 View Post
I replaced both upper and lower ball joints and other suspension components. Took it in for an alignment and everything was within limits. Not saying everyone's will be like this.

John
Thanks John,

Good to know after you did all that and everything was still in limits.
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Old 05-09-2017, 02:46 PM
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the video said tighten the control arm bolts "very little". Why is this?

btw if it was said in the video, I do not have a speaker on my work computer, so couldn't hear anything
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Old 05-18-2017, 10:53 PM
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I believe the control arm you have to torque it when its being under load

anybody have a list or link to torque specs on all joints etc?

Last edited by scotty68; 05-24-2017 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 05-19-2017, 06:30 AM
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That is the recommended procedure for torquing.
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Old 07-06-2017, 03:29 PM
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Thanks! This was a great write up. I just did my ball joints and used the rental ball joint tool from O'Reilly Auto and it worked perfect. The part number is 67045 for anyone who might need it.
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Old 01-03-2018, 05:08 PM
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Incredible write up you're a legend!
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