Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
- Mercedes Benz E Class How to Replace Front Upper Control Arm
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Changing Ball Joints in Front Upper Control Arm
#28
Can someone clear up something for me? I replaced the lower ball joints on my 2005 E320 CDI two years ago. Now I'm hearing/feeling a clunking when I am turning and hitting small bumps in the pavement. I've recently seen reference to there being just upper and lower ball joints on this car. But have also seen comments about "middle" ball joints. FYI - my mechanic replaced "tie rod ends" in a repair 4 years ago, too.
1. Can someone tell me how many ball joints are on each side?
Thank you!
1. Can someone tell me how many ball joints are on each side?
Thank you!
#29
Consider sway bar
Had a similar sound. Ended up being my sway bar. You can't just replace the sway bushings separately unfortunately--at least on my E55. It can also be the sway bar end links.
#30
Member
Ball Joints per se, there is one upper bolted to the upper a-arm. There is one lower Ball Joint pressed into the knuckle assembly. There are two other components that have ball joint mechanisms: the tie rod end and the torque strut (sometimes called "lower control arm forward position"). To my knowledge the latter ball joint cannot be sourced as a separate component.
The upper ball joints are not difficult to replace. As previously mentioned, sway arm bushings can be the culprit.
The upper ball joints are not difficult to replace. As previously mentioned, sway arm bushings can be the culprit.
#31
Senior Member
Ball Joints per se, there is one upper bolted to the upper a-arm. There is one lower Ball Joint pressed into the knuckle assembly. There are two other components that have ball joint mechanisms: the tie rod end and the torque strut (sometimes called "lower control arm forward position"). To my knowledge the latter ball joint cannot be sourced as a separate component.
The upper ball joints are not difficult to replace. As previously mentioned, sway arm bushings can be the culprit.
The upper ball joints are not difficult to replace. As previously mentioned, sway arm bushings can be the culprit.
#32
Member
I haven't done sway bar bushings. Locating the sound can be difficult. I think there's a point where an entire refresh is justified. Upper and lower ball joints, front and rear control arms, tie rod ends.
#33
Many thanks for the clarification. Am replacing the upper ball joints with parts from RMeuropean. They had Lemfroder parts for about $10 less than the next best price I could find.
Also, while the car was on jacks I felt around the suspension and when I yanked on the drivers side lower control arms there was a small click. The passenger side was tight. Is this an issue?
This site is a huge resource. Thanks again to all for sharing their experiences.
David
Also, while the car was on jacks I felt around the suspension and when I yanked on the drivers side lower control arms there was a small click. The passenger side was tight. Is this an issue?
This site is a huge resource. Thanks again to all for sharing their experiences.
David
#34
What do the Plus 45 and Plus 90 mean? I've torqued down the bolts to a 20nm, but that sounds low, especially for the ball joint stud. With 20nm torque it doesn't look like it pulled all the way down yet. Only about 1/8" of thread visible from bottom of nut. Thanks
DISREGARD - I figured it out. Should have looked a little harder...
DISREGARD - I figured it out. Should have looked a little harder...
This is an old thread, but I had difficulty getting the torque values needed to properly install the upper ball joint to the upper control arm. The question went unanswered in this thread.
Per MB WIS these are the torque values:
Per MB WIS these are the torque values:
- 3 bolts attaching the ball joint to the upper control arm 20 Nm plus 45 degrees
- Single bolt that joins the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle 20 Nm plus 90
Last edited by ROADSTIR; 03-22-2016 at 03:53 PM.
#35
I am getting some clunk noise when going thru bumps, I took a look at the upper control arm and ball joints, the rubber boot is not crack. Reading all the post and the video, seem like something I might be able to do. The upper control arm may be a bit harder for me.
I see most just replace the ball joint and not the control arm. How can one tell if the control arm is bad? How frequent does the bushing in those arm goes bad? The car currently has about 80K on the meter.
thanks for your time.
I see most just replace the ball joint and not the control arm. How can one tell if the control arm is bad? How frequent does the bushing in those arm goes bad? The car currently has about 80K on the meter.
thanks for your time.
#36
Radiator petcock not draining.
I'm trying to drain the coolant from my 2005 E320 CDI and have a problem with the drain. The petcock is on the driver's side and turned 1/4 turn counterclockwise without too much trouble. The trouble is nothing is coming out. I've used a bamboo skewer and a stiff SS wire to pick and probe the outlet with the drain petcock open, but nothing...
On a you tube video I saw a guy doing the same thing on an E320 and he says "keep turning and the flow will increase" However, there is a firm stop after a 1/4 turn on mine. Have any of you experienced this?
There's also, what I mistakenly thought was a large drain hose next to the petcock, but no luck. Where else, specifically, can I find the lower hose to drain from there? Photo?
Crappy way to spend a Memorial Day weekend, but it's got to be done.
Many thanks.
On a you tube video I saw a guy doing the same thing on an E320 and he says "keep turning and the flow will increase" However, there is a firm stop after a 1/4 turn on mine. Have any of you experienced this?
There's also, what I mistakenly thought was a large drain hose next to the petcock, but no luck. Where else, specifically, can I find the lower hose to drain from there? Photo?
Crappy way to spend a Memorial Day weekend, but it's got to be done.
Many thanks.