MercFiveHundred

Warped rotors causing vibration when not braking?

I'm more inclined to think that since you changed the thrust/control arms you are more likely to have messed up the alignment. You could have a toe-in/out or castor/camber issues. I suggest you get your alignment checked out before swapping more parts. You could also check yourself to see how the tires are wearing.

Good luck.

Zed82

Alignment is fine, i did it just a few days ago. The steering wheel was straight before that and tires are wearing evenly.

I changed the thrust arms because of this issue. Itīs been following me quite a few months now.

Benzer0matic

I would be shocked if the NEW rotors were warped...Its possible but I just never heard of it. Usually there is no shimmy while driving until you use the brakes.

There may be a chance of a slightly bent rim that can get by on a tire balance machine. Do you remember hitting any potholes lately??

Steve

Zed82

Thanks.

Like i stated earlier, the wheels work perfect on my dads W211. No shimmy at all.

After changning the upper ball joints the shimmy is almost totally gone except for when the car has stood still for some time. That goes away pretty quick. The only slight barely noticeable shimmy i have now is at approx. 60mph.

The real problem is the vibrations while braking. I can see the wheel shake even in low speeds while braking.

VividRacing

Are you sure that the new rotors don't have deposits on them? Rotors rarely warp. 9/10 times someone says their rotors are warped, it's actually pad deposits on the rotors. Did you bed the brakes in properly?

Zed82

How can I tell if i have pad deposits?

My tech said that i didnīt need to bed the new rotors in. Just drive like usual without braking extremely hard. How do you actually bed in rotors and or how many miles?

Zed82

Ordered new OEM rotors today instead of the Brembos. I read that lot of people had problems with Brembos.

Now, what can i do to prevent the same thing from happening? Should i change the new pads too? They are one month, 5000 miles old.

Is it necessary to bed in new rotors if you donīt change pads?

Iīm so confused about bedding in new brakes, there seems to be a lot of different techniques. Some say that you have to brake hard ten times from 60mph to 10mph without coming to a full stop and then ten more times.

Some say that you should brake gently from 60mph to 30mph approx. ten times.

Some say that you should drive as usual but be gentle with the brakes the first 500 miles.

Seriously, who has the time or place to go through the procedure that StopTech recommends???

MercFiveHundred

I just installed new MB rotors on mine. They come covered in primer paint. The parts guy said i don't need to do anything, just put them on and i'm ready to go - brakes will rub off the primer. I drove it yesterday and today. I tried not braking too hard and they seem fine - very smooth. My original rotors never warped so i stuck with the MB rotors.

ap10046

Zed82,
Any luck with the shimmy?
I have the exact same shimmy.
New suspension, wheels, tires, Brakes, but it's still there and only between about 60-70mph (where we are most often at!)

Zed82

Driving my car this summer wasnīt fun at all. I had shimmy while driving and vibrations while braking.

Turns out I had a play in a upper ball joint so I switched it out together with the hydrobushings on the lower control arms (not thrust arms). I also did an alignment.

I also switched the rotors to MB OEM as the new Brembos were awful and warped already after 4000 miles.

Today, the car brakes smoothly and the shimmy is almost gone while driving. I think I can sense a tiny bit of vibration in the steering wheel sometimes. Itīs worst if the car has been standing still for a few days, the tires are new so I guess they tend to deform a bit. They even out after a couple of miles though.

My father has an E320 CDI facelift MY2008 and his ride (AIRmatic) and steeringfeel is overall much firmer than mine. I guess itīs because his is a facelift and updated. He rides on 17 inch rims while I have 18īs.

ap10046

I think the tire deformation has more to it than meets the eye!
I don't have the suspension issue as every single component has been changed.
I have E55 brakes, so I hope and pray it has nothing to do with them. I would dread to change any of those components!
Maybe it's time for another alignment..2 already in the last 3 months..oh well..

Zed82

Actually, my suspension is fine, i have a totally new suspension in the rear. However I feel that facelift cars drive and ride so much better. They feel more firm and direct.

I donīt think alignment is going to help you. Maybe it has something to do with the steering?

ap10046

Believe it or not, I have this creaking / clunking sound for the past 1 year, that I have posted a few threads back, and have just discovered, is from the anti sway bar bush, and a quack dealer made me change my steering rack and removed my column too. So I know it's not from those either! Just quite frustrated, if you ask me!

Dexion

Did you ever change the wheel bearing like others have mentioned? I am having the same shimmy now (only when the car is straight not in a turn or curve) and have a slight scraping sound while driving, when braking the scraping sound gets worse. If I brake hard enough the sound goes away, wierd??? This is what led me to rule out pads..

This sound started to happen as soon as I put on bigger 18" wheels from the OEM 16"s

Zed82

I didnīt see the reason why I should change the bearings as they were not making any noise or feel loose when rocking the wheels.

It got better when I changed an upper ball joint that was bad but still not good. I bought new tires two months ago and I thought, maybe the wheels are out of balance already? So I rebalanced my wheels two days ago and now it drives very smoothly like itīs supposed to.

So after changing every component in the front suspension and even new rotors and tires + rebalancing like 5 times I think itīs ok. (touch on wood).