OK, MAF replacement didn't work; ERG next?
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W212 M276 DELA 30 ; W211 M113k, W126 M117, W126 OM617, W211 OM642 ; R107 M117 X2, Sierra 1500 LZ0
Turns out the same tube you're probably talking about (mine from the intercooler back to the turbo) had a major split in it, where pressure was leaking out of. If your tube was on the drivers side, it was the feeder tube to the intercooler. I'm going to have both tubes replaced.
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06 E320 CDI (GONE), 14 Jeep GC EcoDiesel, 01 Disco II (GONE), 09 BMW X3 3.0 Si Xdrive
Turns out the same tube you're probably talking about (mine from the intercooler back to the turbo) had a major split in it, where pressure was leaking out of. If your tube was on the drivers side, it was the feeder tube to the intercooler. I'm going to have both tubes replaced.
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From: Virginia
W212 M276 DELA 30 ; W211 M113k, W126 M117, W126 OM617, W211 OM642 ; R107 M117 X2, Sierra 1500 LZ0
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From: Portland, OR
2005 E320 CDI
Well, I made it 6 weeks after cleaning the EGR. The lack of power and check engine light came on. This time instead of the P0404, I got P2511.... Check component Y27/9 (left EGR positioner) positioner fault.
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06 E320 CDI (GONE), 14 Jeep GC EcoDiesel, 01 Disco II (GONE), 09 BMW X3 3.0 Si Xdrive
It is a known issue, now you can go to a dealership and get it replaced, drive w/check engine light on if no limp mode or use EGR delete modification to get rid of the problem.
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From: Portland, OR
2005 E320 CDI
Well the BS spray didn't solve and won't the problem. The positioner is the device(small motor) that gets instructions from the ECU to allow more or less exhaust gas into the system.Sounds like it is faulty!!
Once again, if you have a good scanner with freeze frame functions you can determine the conditions(reasons) which caused the fault. If not you are back to the "finger in the wind approach"
Once again, if you have a good scanner with freeze frame functions you can determine the conditions(reasons) which caused the fault. If not you are back to the "finger in the wind approach"
Other than satisifying my curiousity, how will knowing the condition of the positioner change my next step? I am under the impression it comes with the EGR and I can't buy it seperately.
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06 E320 CDI (GONE), 14 Jeep GC EcoDiesel, 01 Disco II (GONE), 09 BMW X3 3.0 Si Xdrive
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From: Portland, OR
2005 E320 CDI
I am not opposed to that. If I knew a local expert and they had experience with this before, I would pursue it, but I don't have contacts nor do I know how to find them.
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From: Virginia
W212 M276 DELA 30 ; W211 M113k, W126 M117, W126 OM617, W211 OM642 ; R107 M117 X2, Sierra 1500 LZ0
Like I said, I had the same symptoms, but no EGR code. Replacing the hose that feeds pressure from the intercooler to the turbo is what fixed it for me. It was a large split, and once at operating temp, when you floored it, it would open up and leak air, which would cause the boost sensor to read insufficient boost and put the car in limp mode.
Having the same problem
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From: Portland, OR
2005 E320 CDI
I never did replace the EGR valve. I was waiting for it to get really bad before I cough up $420 for a new one. It has acted up a couple more times in the last year and I just clear the code. But that isn't a "critical annoyance" point. So I continues to drive without much issue.
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2011 Toyota Tundra DC 4X4 Limited
I never did replace the EGR valve. I was waiting for it to get really bad before I cough up $420 for a new one. It has acted up a couple more times in the last year and I just clear the code. But that isn't a "critical annoyance" point. So I continues to drive without much issue.
I wouldn't mind buying the new EGR and reflashing if I knew that will fix the problem, but I have been reading abut thhis all day and some have had the problem withing a 100 miles or less of replacing the EGR. Not ready to start throwing parts at this car yet.
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From: Portland, OR
2005 E320 CDI
OK, here it is over 2.5 years later and I finally got my EGR valve replaced. It was a minor annoyance, acting up every few months. But a couple days ago it made the car run rough on start up, and wouldn't come out of "limp" mode, and the check engine came on (P0404). So I took it in to the dealership (I could have replaced it myself, but I didn't have the ability to flash or update the SW). So after spending $840, I have new EGR; still have limp mode, plus a new trouble code (not present when I picked up the car). Code is P2015.
In the notes section of the invoice, they wrote: "Found high amounts of carbon build up. Inspected and actuated inlet port shut-off motor. Note: recommend inlet port shut-off motor in near future due to carbon build up which can cause inlet port shut-off motor to fail. Inlet port shut off motor comes complete with intake manifold assembly."
Under Recommended Service they say: "Complete intake manifold with inlet port shut-off motor (code 2513 inlet port shut-off motor failing $2,415.73."
Anybody have a recommendation? Did they misdiagnose the EGR? Did the new EGR somehow cause the new issue? Did the dealership know they misdiagnosed and are trying to redirect the attention. Should ask for my money back? I plan to do more research myself in parallel, but wanted to start with this forum and thread.
Anyone?
In the notes section of the invoice, they wrote: "Found high amounts of carbon build up. Inspected and actuated inlet port shut-off motor. Note: recommend inlet port shut-off motor in near future due to carbon build up which can cause inlet port shut-off motor to fail. Inlet port shut off motor comes complete with intake manifold assembly."
Under Recommended Service they say: "Complete intake manifold with inlet port shut-off motor (code 2513 inlet port shut-off motor failing $2,415.73."
Anybody have a recommendation? Did they misdiagnose the EGR? Did the new EGR somehow cause the new issue? Did the dealership know they misdiagnosed and are trying to redirect the attention. Should ask for my money back? I plan to do more research myself in parallel, but wanted to start with this forum and thread.
Anyone?
