E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

Key failure?

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Old 02-09-2013, 04:08 PM
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Key failure?

I have done a search and cannot find similar symptoms. Any of you hear of this? One of our keyless go fobs indicated time to replace batteries on the DIC. Changed the batteries in it but red battery OK light would not light. DIC still indicated they needed to be changed.
I took the battery holder out again and measured 2.6vdc(full battery voltage) between each of the two right and left hand contacts, but put the holder back in the fob and no red light when tested and car does not think fob is ok.
Key works if placed in ignition on dash but not as keyless. The other fob works just fine so it is not the car.
My deduction is that this one keyfob has failed, somehow. Anyone else heard of this?
My dealer is over 100 miles away and I am loathe to drive over there for this. I am going to try an internet replacement if I can. I will see if one of the internet parts places will code a new one to my VIN.
Larry
Old 02-09-2013, 08:33 PM
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Dealerships are not allowed to send keys through the mail anymore. They are too sensitive an item for ordering on the internet.
You may want to try to put your key in and turn to position 1 and leave it there. You should get a "programming" message. If you aren't, then there is another avenue you have to do. I will get back to you on Monday.
Old 02-10-2013, 05:51 AM
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Hmmm

Ihave not fully communicated. The key works in the ignition but testing the key batteries does not turn on the red light on the key. The car also sees the key having low voltage. I do not think programming is the issue; I still think the key has failed. Thanks
Larry
Old 02-10-2013, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by lsbrodsky
Changed the batteries in it but red battery OK light would not light. DIC still indicated they needed to be changed.
I took the battery holder out again and measured 2.6vdc(full battery voltage) between each of the two right and left hand contacts,Larry
Note that 2.6 v is NOT full voltage. These are nominal 3.0 V batteries and, when new, measure 3.29 V. I have found that the key stops working properly @ 2.99 V. (KG requires higher voltage than "in the ignition".)

When you say "changed" the batteries, did you replace with new ones from a retail sore, ones you already had laying around, or from the net, like Ebay?

Last edited by starbrite; 02-10-2013 at 03:12 PM. Reason: spelling
Old 02-10-2013, 02:52 PM
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Bingo! You are right, new batteries solved the problem. The batteries I put in were NOS, bought two years ago when I first replaced batteries, from Radio Shack. Shelf life should have been about 5+ years or more...not so clearly. Many thanks
Larry
Old 02-10-2013, 04:31 PM
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You're welcome....glad problem solved.

Something else to be aware of, especially when buying on Ebay.

I once bought a 5 pack of Sony batteries that all tested ~3.25 V. However, none of them would light my keys or work on KG start or door entry. Was a real head scratcher.

Turned out the milli amps were way to low. A new battery should read ~150 ma and these all read ~25 ma !! Looking closer at the packaging, I noticed there were no bar codes.
Counterfeit for sure. I didn't accuse the seller of that but did point out the readings. He refunded my money promptly
Old 02-10-2013, 04:34 PM
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How did youmeasure current draw in that key?
Larry
Old 02-10-2013, 04:38 PM
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I removed the batteries and tested them with a multimeter that reads ma.
Old 02-10-2013, 07:02 PM
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I cannot see why that would tell you much since the circuit is only the inherent resistance of the ammmeter. But I get your point that not all batteries are the same.
Larry
Old 02-11-2013, 08:02 AM
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It measures that short term (near) short circuit current capability. That shows the internal resistance which goes up (making the current capability go down) with poorly made, old and discharged batteries.

Generally when testing batteries this way, you don't want to test long of often, and different meters would show different results so it is batter A?B test than an absolute test.

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