spclagent7

Hi everyone,

Been a long time since I've signed in. I'm at 140k miles. Lots of squeaking from the front end recently. Dealer said I needed to replace control arms and ball joints.

Since they quoted almost $3k parts and labor, I went to an Indy, who is doing the work for a total of about $975 parts and labor. Parts are new OEM.

I've searched all over this forum and web, but can't find an answer on cost. Can anyone tell me if $975 is reasonable?

I'm not a DIYer, horrible with tools, and don't want to bug any of you for help in replacing at home. Having said that, what do you think about this cost?

Thank you!

jquiroz1969

sounds about right, ball joints are about $40 a pop in parts, control arms are a bit expensive but if you are replacing both they should come all as one piece. I was quoted $150 per side for labor on just the lower ball joints. Id say about $250 a side and the price of parts being roughly $200 an arm. Even as a DIY this is a PIA with a couple busted knuckles and if you dont have the quality tools to remove them, you may do more harm then good.

2.7Tallroader

That's a really good price for two struts, four ball joints, two thrust arms, and two upper control arms. That's just about the cost of parts. Make sure all these things are being replaced. Ask for an itemized parts list, so you can see what they are quoting. They may think other parts don't need to be replaced to pass inspection.

If they're doing all the suspension pieces, then it is a really good price.

Morde5

This price is very good for parts and labor. Check the parts manufacturer. Even if you are good with tools and DIY you will need a lift, press, impact wrench, compressor etc. For this kind of money, go for it. It is not worth the hassle doing it yourself. Ask me how I know. If everything goes OK, do an alignment and you are good for the next 100K. Good luck!

spclagent7

Thanks guys for the feedback. I searched all over the web and on this forum about ball joints squeaking and control arms. Despite the millions of posts, blogs, DIY instructions, it was still unclear to me what a current, reasonable parts and labor cost might be. Your validation is really helpful and provides peace of mind.

Separately they're replacing engine and transmission mounts, total cost of just about $400. Also performed regular service "B" at $225.

Work was completed today and I'm picking up the car tomorrow. I saw that there's lots of debate on usage of OEM versus genuine parts. New OEM was used on my car.

If there's any meaningful updates good or bad I will definitely post.

I bought this 2004 E320 with 17k miles on odometer. It's been awhile now with this car.... And my presence on this forum! On a random note, Konigstiger will always be my W211 hero on this forum.

Thanks again everyone!

irondad

140k miles... gas or diesel E320, out of curiosity?

spclagent7

It's the gas E320. I haven't had major issues during ownership. This recent repair was definitely the biggest.

Picked up car today, now it feels just about new. Love the car all over again. Took a good drive from Newport Beach to San Diego tonight for a business dinner. The drive was fun!

jquiroz1969

SPC, where did you have this done at? I need to get my arms and parts replaced soon. Seems this shop did a good job at a great price.

2.7Tallroader

The E320 does go a long ways. My W210 E320 had 220K miles on it and was really reliable until totaled.

spclagent7

Hi jquiroz -- Shop is Precision Import Auto Repair on Yorba St in Corona, CA. It's a father/son shop with a team of mechanics under them. They're friendly, responsive and provide good visibility to the repair. I can report back over the next few months on how the car runs so that everyone can get a flavor on whether the repair was in fact good

Otherwise, the bill was documented pretty well, as Tallroader said to watch for. If you guys want I can send you a copy of my itemized bill via private message.

For anyone who is really nitpicky, on two small things they definitely charged. Last minute I had them replace my cup holder. The part was at a good price... But they charged $50 for installation. As most know, sliding in the cupholder is nothing; even a non-mechanic like me could've done it in 30 seconds. The other item was $50 to clear up my headlight lenses that were just beginning to fog up.

Given the entire set of repairs though... I'm definitely a cheap b*st*rd, but personally didn't care this time and was happy to pay. If anyone does utilize this shop I'd be interested in hearing everyone's feedback. For me, I'm feeling great about them.

I'm glad to hear about e320 endurance. I am the type to keep cars to the end. My first car ever after college in 1996 was a new Nissan Maxima that went strong until totaled at 195k miles in 2000. Second car was a new 2001 Passat 1.8 turbo to 160k in 2006 with oil leaks galore. I was very happy with each car. The e320 is my third car.... And the one I love most out of the three.

tresean1

Hey guys---just curious, my dealer has said that there is play in the lower front ball joints. What exactly does this mean? And what would you guy think is a reasonable cost for the ball joint replacement?

cmriv

In Virginia any play fails VA safety inspection, not sure where you are located. Your ball joint is the joint that all your loaded weight rest's on. Very common problem. 3.0 hr/s of labor no idea what parts cost is.

tresean1

Thanks for the input; the car is acutally up there with you in NOVA. I am in central VA, and I am actually contemplating purchasing the car. Is that 3 hours for both sides or just one side?

On another note, tell me how this sounds to you: So the car is being sold at a discount because it has the following things wrong with it and it won't pass safety inspection:
1) front and read rotors under VA tolerance
2) rear seatbelt retracting slowly
3) alignment needed
4) lower front ball joints have play

I am still interested in buying it because I first thought it would cost the dealership more money to fix those things, and would decrease their profit. So I told them I would buy the car and pay to have their service department fix the above issues. Then I got this email from the salesman stating "the used car manager told me he will not put that car back in shop even if customer pay the shop bill." Might I add I asked for closeup pics of the vehicle and the salesman has procrastinated on sending them (their website pics are from a distance with a cloudy sky).

Does this seem like shady business to anyone other than me? Why would a dealership refuse to do needed repairs on a car they are selling, even when the customer agrees to pay for said work??? My first hunch is that they are not revealing everything that is wrong (or the entirety of the items that did say were wrong), and they know that even they cannot fix the problem(s), even though they lied and made them seem so easy and trivial. I hate to jump to conclusions, but the red flags are flying full mast. Does anyone else get that same hunch. Might I add, this is a (questionably) reputable Mercedes-Benz dealership in NOVA. Can you guess which one? :-)

cmriv

Normal stuff going on there. If you are getting the car at a discounted rate, usually the used car department will sell the vehicle as is. You will need to pay for the remaining repairs that fail VA safety inspection. However with you knowing it fails VA safety they don't see the need to "have" to fix any of those issues.

3.0 for both side. 1.5 a side. replace in pairs that way you don't have to worry about the other one failing.

Which MB dealership is it? HBL?!?!?!?!

tresean1

^^see that's the thing I think you missed in my posting---I am not saying that they "have to" fix anything. I think that perhaps you missed or didn't pick up on the more obvious issue here. How is this normal stuff going on here?

I am well aware they are selling it as-is w/the stated issues. But as I wrote above "I told them I would buy the car and pay to have their service department fix the above issues. Then I got this email from the salesman stating 'the used car manager told me he will not put that car back in shop even if customer pay the shop bill'."

So while I am buying the car used/as-is...what's the harm in me volunteering to then pay for the required services shortly after the purchase to make the car pass inspection???? And more importantly, why are they refusing to do work on one of their vehicles if the customer is paying out of pocket? This is a Mercedes vehicle and they are a (supposedly, now questionably) reputable & authorized Mercedes Benz repair facitlity---so what the issue??? Seems super shady to me!!!!

cmriv

Sounds like the used car manager is a re-re. Used cars is a completely different service then the service lane itself. You can without question put your car in the shop. They can't say, no we wont fix your car, used cars might say that but the service lane can't. If you buy it just roll up to the service lane and request for those things to be addressed/fixed. It seems to me the used car manager just wants to wipe his hands clean of the vehicle. Which is understandable since you knowingly know of the issues with the vehicle. It isn't his job to make sure your car gets the repairs you want or need after he sells it. So yeah, the no i wont let you fix your car out of pocket seems suspect and completely false. Maybe you misunderstood him meaning of not letting you fix it. I'm 1000% sure any dealership will let you come and pay to get your newly purchased Mercedes fixed.