Who has over 100,000 miles on their gasoline W211?
 

There's a thread entitled "How many miles on your W211?" but it has a bunch of low mile cars and doesn't differentiate between gasoline and diesel.

How far can a gasoline W211 go? I don't seem to read much about them over 100,000 miles. Do they disintegrate? Just die sudden deaths?

For example, I spoke to the service manager at the Toyota dealership and asked what kind of mileage older Sequoias are coming in with and he said regularly over 300,000 miles and if well maintained close to 500,000 miles. I know many people with similar stories, in varied cars. I know it's apples and oranges (or is it) but for those of us with gasoline cars who are considering keeping them over 100,000 miles I'm curious about what we might be getting into.

So... to aid us folks considering going over to the dark side of 100,000+ miles in gasoline W211's, those of you who have done it can you please post something along the lines of:

-Year
-Model
-Miles
-Mechanical issues
-Any other input you can give

Thanks!

2004
E500
162K miles

Cps replaced twice
both front struts replaced with Arnott
fuel sender has false readings
so thats it pretty reliable car so far.

2003 E500
130,000 miles

Control arms (both sides)
Ball joints (both sides)
Motor mounts
Transmission mount
Rebuilt transmission (coolant contamination)
New radiator (radiator leaked into trans)
CPS
Left rear door lock solenoid

CPS? sorry not to drift a little off topic but whats that?

CPS = crankshaft position sensor

2007 E350.

112,000 miles

Balance shaft, ball joints, conductor plate, fuel sender unit seals, gas tank replaced, fuel pumps replaced, wheel position sensor.

I "hope" I am at the point where there is not much more to replace other than regular maintenance items. As of now, it runs great.

2003 E500 132,000 miles and sold did not buy another MB and won't

3 sets of brakes
Both front airmatic struts
Airmatic aircompressor
Rear shocks
Rear airsprings
Heater control valve
SBC brakes
Ball joints
Engine mounts
Transmission leakage
Battery control module
Power steering pump and on and on and on. .........:smash:

2004 E500 135,000 - Purchased with 29K on the clock

Ball joints
Control arms
Engine mounts
CPS
MAF
Various control modules (dynamic seat, xenon, etc...)
Multiple TCU updates until they finally agreed the early 7Gs had a problem

Car runs like a top though, very strong. Only current issues are my keyless go start/stop button and driver side keyless door handles.

Oil and filter changed EVERY 5K miles with MANN OEM fleece filter and 0/40 Mobile 1. Oil analysis done every 15-20K miles with stellar reports.

2003
E500
153,000
No mechanical issues

Don't be afraid to cross that 100K line in the sand!

110k on 2006 e500. Car still runs great and is tight as a drum. Not one squeak or rattle.

I didn't expect to keep the car this long, but it has been really great.

Not sure if the w163 and w211 share the same V6 - but I was told they do. If they do...I have 213K miles on the ML. Only engine fail items I had was a single cracked rubber hose and I changed the MAF to smooth the idle. Also cleaned the EGR - but there was no reason (that I knew of).

As for the rest of the vehicle...I have no clue. We have a diesel.

I recently sold my 2003 E320 and replaced it with a 2013 E350.

2003 E320
Gas
305,000 miles

Nothing unusual for the age and mileage of the car. The secret, in my opinion, is to continue to follow the maintenance schedule after the warranty period. In the past, I would revert to "break-fix" when the mileage was really high and whatever car I had would not last much past 150,000.

John

nice!

Awesome... but with only 12 responses to this thread it looks like there aren't many gasoline W211's with over 100,000 miles...

2006
E500 4Matic Wagon
150,000 miles

Last 20k miles:

- Both engine mounts
- Rear air springs
- Breather hoses
- AC compressor
- Rollers/idlers
- CPS

Recently, we had a Sprinter put in a new transmission. The old one had 600,000 miles and is the same 5-speed as in 211s (minus the 4matic). Engines (V8s) are bullet proof if maintained with proper oil. Weak points in the long-run are Airmatic and SBC. However, I find that Airmatic components tend to last as long as regular springs/shocks, just cost more.

-Year - 2003
-Model - E320
-Miles - 107k
-Mechanical issues : Had the SBC replaced under warranty, valve cover gasket, replaces calipers, replaced brakes, replaced headlights, replaced Blower under the passangerside, replaces control arms, wheel bearings. NEED: motor mounts, torque converter, transmission mounts, differential rebuilt, rear main seal as of now. Who knows what else. Great car the Idiot I bought it from didn't maintain it.
-Any other input you can give: Its German... great machines till they break. PREVENTIVE schedule stick with it.

03 E500 140,000 nps what so ever :)

Keep 'em coming!

2007
E63
119,000

Under warrantee
CD changer not working
Keyless go door handle (was just loose connection)

After warrantee
Edit: motor mounts at 100k
Broken ground wire at trunk hinge (see DIY)
Whistling PVC (need to get around to replacing, $94)
Gas tank smell, one could argue replacing the fuel filters I a maintenance item.

Everything else I have done is maintenance

2007
E550 4Matic
125K miles

Rear cam cover leak
Conductor Plate
Valve Body (in shop for now)

Goes thru 2qts every 5k miles and has since we got it with 30K on the clock.

2006
E350
135,000

Bought with 130 K - unknown service history
Since then:
Replaced Valve body / conductor plate
Replaced Transmission mount

mileage
 

2006 E55

105k

No real issues just about to replace steering arm bushings and service trans

Valve body/conductor plate... is that the transmission?

Yes. If you don't replace the transmission connector ($10 part IIRC) the oil will actually travel up the wires into the conductor plate. Seen it happen on other MB vehicles as well, that's why it's important to change it whenever you change the transmission fluid. Valve body is also transmission.

2003
E5-hunnert
203K miles

SBC replaced (warranty work)
Heater exchange valve (DIY)
Radiator cooling fan/assembly (broken electrical connector) - DIY
Mass Airflow sensor (several) - DIY
Driver front air strut replaced
Upper/lower ball joints (both sides)
Radiator overflow pipe/hose - DIY
New plugs/wires/solenoids - DIY
Rear air struts (from Airnott $715) without dropping the rear subframe - DIY :y
Replaced both batteries (from Walmart) - DIY
Oil changes, brake pads, brake wear sensors, air filters, the usual - DIY
And she's just starting to drink a lil oil. I was a qt down over 10k miles (last oil change).
No leaks

She's starting to show her age, but she still ticks 27mpg running 75+ on the highway with the AC on..... :bow: