Too much noise in your w211? Try this inexpensive fix!
08-14-2013, 02:04 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Too much noise in your w211? Try this inexpensive fix!
SO if you have loud cabin noise... I have this quick fix for you.
This is about a $30 alteration.... you can pick up the soundproofing mat(s) at your local Auto Sound shop, online, or order it through an auto shop (ie O'Riley)
Anyway, here's what you'll need:
Hammer/Mallet
Scissors
1 Rubber Sound Deadener Pad (IE Dynamat... 2ft x 8ft)
3M Sound Deadening Mat (optional, same size)
Security Screwdriver
Gloves (optional)
1) Cut sound deadening material, into strips. I cut it into approximately 1.5cm strips.
2) Remove inner weatherstripping/soundproof from the frame of the car when you first open the door. It was at one point glued down... so if yours doesn't come off with ease... it's normal. That means they built your car with care! Haha.
3) Add the 1.5cm strips to the metal frame, all around... like so
4) (optional) Once you have finished the bordering, if you have a black or darker colored car... or just want extra sound-proofing then go over the dynamat with the black 3M strip.
5) Crease and push down the sound deadener to ensure a firm seal and the best result. I used the back side of scissors.
***** Please remember that sound-proofing material is typically rubberized material backed with aluminum... ALUMINUM IS METAL... don't pull a "Zach" and press it down with your fingers...
6) Once finished, re-install the weatherstripping/soundproofing... you will have to use the hammer, and it will be very snug. Do not hit to the point where you miss and scratch your paint!
7) This is what the end result will look like.
8) Next, tighten the screws behind the outer, rubber weatherstripping attached to the border of the door (under the flaps, toward the middle pillar.) For both the front and rear doors. These screws become loose over the years with rough roads and constant opening and closing of the doors.
9) Finally, you will have extra strips of the dynamat... then cut them in half and border the doors with the remainder of it. Under the weatherstripping. Like so:
Repeat for all doors. The front ones are easier than the rear doors (when bordering the doors, under the weatherstripping...
Should take you approximately 2 hours, if you work leisurely.
This is honestly the BEST thing I have EVER done for my car, it made an immediate difference and there is NO noise penetrating the cabin... (except from the wheel areas which I will tackle later and post with pics)
Let me know if you have any questions, and please post pics if you do this to your car!
This is about a $30 alteration.... you can pick up the soundproofing mat(s) at your local Auto Sound shop, online, or order it through an auto shop (ie O'Riley)
Anyway, here's what you'll need:
Hammer/Mallet
Scissors
1 Rubber Sound Deadener Pad (IE Dynamat... 2ft x 8ft)
3M Sound Deadening Mat (optional, same size)
Security Screwdriver
Gloves (optional)
1) Cut sound deadening material, into strips. I cut it into approximately 1.5cm strips.
2) Remove inner weatherstripping/soundproof from the frame of the car when you first open the door. It was at one point glued down... so if yours doesn't come off with ease... it's normal. That means they built your car with care! Haha.
3) Add the 1.5cm strips to the metal frame, all around... like so
4) (optional) Once you have finished the bordering, if you have a black or darker colored car... or just want extra sound-proofing then go over the dynamat with the black 3M strip.
5) Crease and push down the sound deadener to ensure a firm seal and the best result. I used the back side of scissors.
***** Please remember that sound-proofing material is typically rubberized material backed with aluminum... ALUMINUM IS METAL... don't pull a "Zach" and press it down with your fingers...
6) Once finished, re-install the weatherstripping/soundproofing... you will have to use the hammer, and it will be very snug. Do not hit to the point where you miss and scratch your paint!
7) This is what the end result will look like.
8) Next, tighten the screws behind the outer, rubber weatherstripping attached to the border of the door (under the flaps, toward the middle pillar.) For both the front and rear doors. These screws become loose over the years with rough roads and constant opening and closing of the doors.
9) Finally, you will have extra strips of the dynamat... then cut them in half and border the doors with the remainder of it. Under the weatherstripping. Like so:
Repeat for all doors. The front ones are easier than the rear doors (when bordering the doors, under the weatherstripping...
Should take you approximately 2 hours, if you work leisurely.
This is honestly the BEST thing I have EVER done for my car, it made an immediate difference and there is NO noise penetrating the cabin... (except from the wheel areas which I will tackle later and post with pics)
Let me know if you have any questions, and please post pics if you do this to your car!
Last edited by Zach8131; 08-15-2013 at 04:44 AM. Reason: Images originally uploaded too large & wouldn't show.
08-14-2013, 06:38 PM
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Bristol, CT
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06 S211 E500 4Matic
Very cool indeed, but the damn cabin is quiet as it is. Actually too quiet and I find myself listening for interior cracks and squeals. If I do this, I will probably discover more interior noises and just drive myself nuts haha.
Very good write up nonetheless!
Very good write up nonetheless!
08-14-2013, 11:05 PM
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks!
&&
Really? It's too quiet? I want your car then! Mine sucks! I can carry on a normal tone conversation... but I'm finding myself having to shell out for an S600 to be satisfied with driving. (I drive so friggen much)
I'm a noise ****! Haha, my next step is to tackle all interior squeaks and cracks with my trusty silicone spray after I get it re-upholstered.
&&
Really? It's too quiet? I want your car then! Mine sucks! I can carry on a normal tone conversation... but I'm finding myself having to shell out for an S600 to be satisfied with driving. (I drive so friggen much)
I'm a noise ****! Haha, my next step is to tackle all interior squeaks and cracks with my trusty silicone spray after I get it re-upholstered.
08-14-2013, 11:16 PM
#5
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M109R
Perfect....I was wondering about something like this.
Did you measure the interior cabin noise with a noise meter before and after?
Do you have soft close doors?
When are you planning on doing the fenders/inner wells?
Thanks
Did you measure the interior cabin noise with a noise meter before and after?
Do you have soft close doors?
When are you planning on doing the fenders/inner wells?
Thanks
08-15-2013, 12:03 AM
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Bristol, CT
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06 S211 E500 4Matic
Could you post a link to the silicone spray you use for interior squeaks? Do you just spray the affected area? I'm going crazy with my instrument cluster squeak/rattle every time I drive over a bump. Tried applying felt tape around the whole plastic trim piece but the horrid noise is still there.
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08-15-2013, 12:29 AM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
I don't have soft close doors, I also padded the inside of the door panels with the sound deadener today as well... tomorrow I'm doing under the carpets and then Friday will be the fenders & wheel wells.
TC & ME, if the squeak was from where the door panel meets the top (like window area) I actually use a syringe (without a needle) and I fill it with canola oil, and put a stream of it along the whole area from left to right,
This is the silicone I use, you can pick it up at Home Depot for $4. DONT use wd40 it'll dry out the leather and make it worse. I build aquariums, so silicone is gods answer to everything. It's like liquid duct tape.
It's easier to use a straw to keep the application cleaner. Don't be why with it either. Crack your windows a little to let it air out too.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-11-...6-SL/202529794
TC & ME, if the squeak was from where the door panel meets the top (like window area) I actually use a syringe (without a needle) and I fill it with canola oil, and put a stream of it along the whole area from left to right,
This is the silicone I use, you can pick it up at Home Depot for $4. DONT use wd40 it'll dry out the leather and make it worse. I build aquariums, so silicone is gods answer to everything. It's like liquid duct tape.
It's easier to use a straw to keep the application cleaner. Don't be why with it either. Crack your windows a little to let it air out too.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-11-...6-SL/202529794
01-07-2024, 05:02 PM
#10
SO if you have loud cabin noise... I have this quick fix for you.
This is about a $30 alteration.... you can pick up the soundproofing mat(s) at your local Auto Sound shop, online, or order it through an auto shop (ie O'Riley)
Anyway, here's what you'll need:
Hammer/Mallet
Scissors
1 Rubber Sound Deadener Pad (IE Dynamat... 2ft x 8ft)
3M Sound Deadening Mat (optional, same size)
Security Screwdriver
Gloves (optional)
1) Cut sound deadening material, into strips. I cut it into approximately 1.5cm strips.
2) Remove inner weatherstripping/soundproof from the frame of the car when you first open the door. It was at one point glued down... so if yours doesn't come off with ease... it's normal. That means they built your car with care! Haha.
3) Add the 1.5cm strips to the metal frame, all around... like so
4) (optional) Once you have finished the bordering, if you have a black or darker colored car... or just want extra sound-proofing then go over the dynamat with the black 3M strip.
5) Crease and push down the sound deadener to ensure a firm seal and the best result. I used the back side of scissors.
***** Please remember that sound-proofing material is typically rubberized material backed with aluminum... ALUMINUM IS METAL... don't pull a "Zach" and press it down with your fingers...
6) Once finished, re-install the weatherstripping/soundproofing... you will have to use the hammer, and it will be very snug. Do not hit to the point where you miss and scratch your paint!
7) This is what the end result will look like.
8) Next, tighten the screws behind the outer, rubber weatherstripping attached to the border of the door (under the flaps, toward the middle pillar.) For both the front and rear doors. These screws become loose over the years with rough roads and constant opening and closing of the doors.
9) Finally, you will have extra strips of the dynamat... then cut them in half and border the doors with the remainder of it. Under the weatherstripping. Like so:
Repeat for all doors. The front ones are easier than the rear doors (when bordering the doors, under the weatherstripping...
Should take you approximately 2 hours, if you work leisurely.
This is honestly the BEST thing I have EVER done for my car, it made an immediate difference and there is NO noise penetrating the cabin... (except from the wheel areas which I will tackle later and post with pics)
Let me know if you have any questions, and please post pics if you do this to your car!
This is about a $30 alteration.... you can pick up the soundproofing mat(s) at your local Auto Sound shop, online, or order it through an auto shop (ie O'Riley)
Anyway, here's what you'll need:
Hammer/Mallet
Scissors
1 Rubber Sound Deadener Pad (IE Dynamat... 2ft x 8ft)
3M Sound Deadening Mat (optional, same size)
Security Screwdriver
Gloves (optional)
1) Cut sound deadening material, into strips. I cut it into approximately 1.5cm strips.
2) Remove inner weatherstripping/soundproof from the frame of the car when you first open the door. It was at one point glued down... so if yours doesn't come off with ease... it's normal. That means they built your car with care! Haha.
3) Add the 1.5cm strips to the metal frame, all around... like so
4) (optional) Once you have finished the bordering, if you have a black or darker colored car... or just want extra sound-proofing then go over the dynamat with the black 3M strip.
5) Crease and push down the sound deadener to ensure a firm seal and the best result. I used the back side of scissors.
***** Please remember that sound-proofing material is typically rubberized material backed with aluminum... ALUMINUM IS METAL... don't pull a "Zach" and press it down with your fingers...
6) Once finished, re-install the weatherstripping/soundproofing... you will have to use the hammer, and it will be very snug. Do not hit to the point where you miss and scratch your paint!
7) This is what the end result will look like.
8) Next, tighten the screws behind the outer, rubber weatherstripping attached to the border of the door (under the flaps, toward the middle pillar.) For both the front and rear doors. These screws become loose over the years with rough roads and constant opening and closing of the doors.
9) Finally, you will have extra strips of the dynamat... then cut them in half and border the doors with the remainder of it. Under the weatherstripping. Like so:
Repeat for all doors. The front ones are easier than the rear doors (when bordering the doors, under the weatherstripping...
Should take you approximately 2 hours, if you work leisurely.
This is honestly the BEST thing I have EVER done for my car, it made an immediate difference and there is NO noise penetrating the cabin... (except from the wheel areas which I will tackle later and post with pics)
Let me know if you have any questions, and please post pics if you do this to your car!
