Lower ball joint and control arm
01-23-2016, 04:06 PM
#26
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
job is done
Cut front bearing/bushing and there is empty space in it as you can see on the picture, but if there was fluid in it, it had to be years ago as it was completely dry. Judging from the flex, the other side is due for replacement as well, so looks like those bushings with motor mounts should go on 100k maintenance list.
When bushing finally cuts via the rubber, the inner flange start knocking against outer sleeve.
The symptoms I had was knocking/rubbing when rolling from the stop, then at 70mph the thing would vibrate, what I think was wheel vibration transferred to the control arm as it oscillated with wheel rpm.
When bushing finally cuts via the rubber, the inner flange start knocking against outer sleeve.
The symptoms I had was knocking/rubbing when rolling from the stop, then at 70mph the thing would vibrate, what I think was wheel vibration transferred to the control arm as it oscillated with wheel rpm.
01-23-2022, 05:37 AM
#27
Just to revive this thread . I have to say go with Moog ! I used to work with Federal Mogul and after seeing how they are made in person, they're 100% better then factory . The fact you can grease the ball joints has me sold. I've used them on my Silverado Duramax Diesel truck to my Mercedes E-classes in usa and europe .
