Lower ball joint and control arm
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So replace just the ball-joint or complete re-build, and is Moog worth the $200 premium over Raybestos for the kit?


http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...050&cc=1432292
Sounds like were in the same squeaky boat. The front Moog ($700) or Raybestos ($450) kits have 8 peices - upper and lower control arms, as well as inner and outer tie-rod ends. The arms and ends include all balljoints and bushings. The cheaper solution is to just replace the ball joints (upper and/or lower) however this requires special tools and a press. Here is a list of the front suspension parts I've had replaced over the years:
06/23/06 2540miles Replaced Rt. lower control arm 2113309207
06/23/06 2540miles Replaced Rt. Shock 2113231100
4/20/11 52700miles Replaced outer tie rod end tire shop no part # only non dealer work.
4/25/11 52743miles replaced Rt. lower balljoint 2113300435
6/11/12 62277miles Replaced Lt. lower balljoint 211330435
4/19/13 68022miles Replaced front springs 2113211404
5/22/13 68194miles replaced Rt. upper balljoint 0003301007
9/03/14 78000miles need Lt upper balljoint
I should have replaced the whole thing in 2011 when it started going. Now I'm left wondering if I should just get a left upper balljoint or if given the mismatched age of all the parts I should replace everything. Is Moog worth the premium over Raybestos?
Sounds like were in the same squeaky boat. The front Moog ($700) or Raybestos ($450) kits have 8 peices - upper and lower control arms, as well as inner and outer tie-rod ends. The arms and ends include all balljoints and bushings. The cheaper solution is to just replace the ball joints (upper and/or lower) however this requires special tools and a press. Here is a list of the front suspension parts I've had replaced over the years:
06/23/06 2540miles Replaced Rt. lower control arm 2113309207
06/23/06 2540miles Replaced Rt. Shock 2113231100
4/20/11 52700miles Replaced outer tie rod end tire shop no part # only non dealer work.
4/25/11 52743miles replaced Rt. lower balljoint 2113300435
6/11/12 62277miles Replaced Lt. lower balljoint 211330435
4/19/13 68022miles Replaced front springs 2113211404
5/22/13 68194miles replaced Rt. upper balljoint 0003301007
9/03/14 78000miles need Lt upper balljoint
I should have replaced the whole thing in 2011 when it started going. Now I'm left wondering if I should just get a left upper balljoint or if given the mismatched age of all the parts I should replace everything. Is Moog worth the premium over Raybestos?

I decided to replace everything and do a total overhaul of the front suspension. The only exception is the front springs since they are only 1 year old, I didn't see aftermarket that weren't lowering, and I didn't want to re-order the same thing. (I'd like stiffer/HD springs - I hope these don't break again.)
I saw a DIY thread on this at Pelican and benzworld, but if anyone has a WIS I'd appreciate it. Here is my parts list.
MOOG RK620183 Control Arm Lower Right
MOOG RK620187 Control Arm Lower Left
MOOG RK620728 Control Arm Lower Right Pitman/Steering
MOOG RK620727 Control Arm Lower Left Pitman/Steering
MOOG K80493 Stabilizer Bar Link Right
MOOG K80492 Stabilizer Bar Link Left
MOOG K160304 Strut Mount X2
MOOG EV80975 Tie Rod End inners X2
MOOG ES800386 Tie Rod End left outer
MOOG ES800387 Tie Rod End right outer
MOOG RK620027 Control Arm Upper X2
MOOG K500168 Ball Joint Lower X2
Bilstein 24-069052-M512 Shock absorber X2
I know it's overkill, but my goal is to have a better/stronger than stock suspension when I'm finished.




Thanks




My wagon, with struts has no wheel play, but I noticed uneven tire wear so did some inspection. Have alignment scheduled next week at the dealer, but in the mean time, when I put a pry bar under my control arms front bearings, I can move them about 2mm. This is soft "give" what I assume it is rubber flex, but rear bearings don't do that. It is called bearing on EPC, but I know it is called bushing as well.
So is the 2 mm flex normal, or not?
I have EPC but did not figure out how to copy picture from it.
The bearing part is A 210 333 68 14
I found them available separately and do they require press to replace?
Last edited by kajtek1; Nov 8, 2015 at 12:36 PM.




To add to frustration, even the bushing look aged a bit, I think my knocking was due loose bolt in it. It was torqued pretty strong, but I see sign of the bolt thread wearing on the aluminium sleeve inside the hole.
Last edited by kajtek1; Jan 22, 2016 at 10:10 PM.




Found the WIS, but can't make much sense out of it.
The pictures are not clear and description sucks.
What I understand that after removing front bushing, you should use long rod and via front eye press one half of rear out.
Than put arm vertically on press and press 1/2 half out.
Will see tomorrow morning.




It was easier to purchase four new control arms with bushings and ball joints, pull the factory control arms, and install the replacements. I plan on rebuilding the original control arms with new bushings and ball joints in my spare time and placing the rebuilt control arms on the shelf as spares.
YMMV.




The problem is that rear bushing are two halves with flanges on both sides with nothing to grab on. I spend some time playing with it on press -only to push inner rubber from one.
Now seeing WIS I have better idea how to do it, but then will have to seek tools or rods for it.
Will see it tomorrow morning.
Those things have been lifetime items on older cars, so having the play at 160k is a surprise.
But it happens.


