hayseed

iTrader: (2)

I need to replace lower ball joints soon and was trying to find a control arm / ball joint assembly at a reasonable price ratcher than trying to press in/out the existing one,,, It looks like oreillyauto.com has some but was wondering if anyone else has tried these ?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...=Mercedes-Benz

cwallens

I bought mine from Autozone. Same price, same quality. It was a pain in the a** to get them in, but they work just fine. I changed everything once I had it apart

Craftysince86

OEM ones are $150ish a side retail

What do you consider reasonable cost?

hayseed

iTrader: (2)

OEM control arm and ball joint for 150 per side ?

Craftysince86

Lemfoerder is the OE manufacturer

Autohaus has them for about $152.xx
, it will include all bushings, lower ball joint, and the ball joint for the sway bar,

dtrentr

RockAuto has a Suspension kit that basically has every replaceable front end part for $684. Once you get in there, you may as well do it all.

Craftysince86

I pieced mine together using OE and Moog heavy duty ball joints for just over $500

LCA
Inner/outer tie rods
Upper ball joints
End links

jaxfl

How do you know if you are going to have to replace them???? ruff ride, bangging, or what?

cwallens

I realized that mine are worn out when I first bought the car and I did a little inspection. I saw that all the rubber parts where worn out, porous, and had cuts in them. So I changed the complete front end kit. I also realized a banging when I turned around corners.

Craftysince86

Yes, physical inspection, you can try jacking up the corner and seeing if you have any front to back movement in the wheel, sloppy steering, etc.

rediesel

2006 E320 CDI. So I have a bad/squeeky balljoint. I'm debating replacing just the ball joint vs. a complete front rebuild from Rock auto. I've replaced a control arm here; tie-rod there, and feel the suspension on these cars is a weak point. I don't like replacing components on one side and not the other, but have done it in the past. Trying to balance the cost of a complete rebuild vs the functionality of having a fresh front end.

So replace just the ball-joint or complete re-build, and is Moog worth the $200 premium over Raybestos for the kit?

ATXE500

I have a squeeky front/drive side posable ball joint is this the complete kettle or is there more to it? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-W211-E-Control-Thrust-Strut-Arm-Upper-Lower-Ball-Joint-Joints-Set-6-/151242143418?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2005%7CMake%3AMercedes-Benz%7CModel%3AE500&hash=item2336bbf6ba&vxp=mtr

cetialpha5

I think if you do a search you will probably find bad reviews about buying parts on eBay. You're better off getting brand name parts. Only reason to buy them would be if you just want a quick cheap fix before selling the car, but then I'd feel bad for the next owner.

rediesel

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...050&cc=1432292

Sounds like were in the same squeaky boat. The front Moog ($700) or Raybestos ($450) kits have 8 peices - upper and lower control arms, as well as inner and outer tie-rod ends. The arms and ends include all balljoints and bushings. The cheaper solution is to just replace the ball joints (upper and/or lower) however this requires special tools and a press. Here is a list of the front suspension parts I've had replaced over the years:

06/23/06 2540miles Replaced Rt. lower control arm 2113309207
06/23/06 2540miles Replaced Rt. Shock 2113231100
4/20/11 52700miles Replaced outer tie rod end tire shop no part # only non dealer work.
4/25/11 52743miles replaced Rt. lower balljoint 2113300435
6/11/12 62277miles Replaced Lt. lower balljoint 211330435
4/19/13 68022miles Replaced front springs 2113211404
5/22/13 68194miles replaced Rt. upper balljoint 0003301007
9/03/14 78000miles need Lt upper balljoint

I should have replaced the whole thing in 2011 when it started going. Now I'm left wondering if I should just get a left upper balljoint or if given the mismatched age of all the parts I should replace everything. Is Moog worth the premium over Raybestos?

isstay

You still will need ball joint press because lower control arm ball joint is pressed in the knuckle.

rediesel

Thanks Isstay, took me a couple of times to realize there are 4 ball-joints total per side in the front: 1 Lower in Steering knuckle, 2 Lower in control arm, 3 lower Pitman/steering control arm, 4. Upper

I decided to replace everything and do a total overhaul of the front suspension. The only exception is the front springs since they are only 1 year old, I didn't see aftermarket that weren't lowering, and I didn't want to re-order the same thing. (I'd like stiffer/HD springs - I hope these don't break again.)

I saw a DIY thread on this at Pelican and benzworld, but if anyone has a WIS I'd appreciate it. Here is my parts list.

MOOG RK620183 Control Arm Lower Right
MOOG RK620187 Control Arm Lower Left
MOOG RK620728 Control Arm Lower Right Pitman/Steering
MOOG RK620727 Control Arm Lower Left Pitman/Steering
MOOG K80493 Stabilizer Bar Link Right
MOOG K80492 Stabilizer Bar Link Left
MOOG K160304 Strut Mount X2
MOOG EV80975 Tie Rod End inners X2
MOOG ES800386 Tie Rod End left outer
MOOG ES800387 Tie Rod End right outer
MOOG RK620027 Control Arm Upper X2
MOOG K500168 Ball Joint Lower X2
Bilstein 24-069052-M512 Shock absorber X2

I know it's overkill, but my goal is to have a better/stronger than stock suspension when I'm finished.

JP500

Are these parts the same for the w211 500? Im almost sure they are but I thought id make sure before I order them.

rediesel

The shocks and the strur mount are for non-aimatic, but the rest is universal for most W211.

tresean1

I know all you guys are DIYers, but have any of you had the lower ball joints replaced at the dealership or at an indy mechanic? If so, approx. how much did it cost?

Thanks

kajtek1

Will revive the question.
My wagon, with struts has no wheel play, but I noticed uneven tire wear so did some inspection. Have alignment scheduled next week at the dealer, but in the mean time, when I put a pry bar under my control arms front bearings, I can move them about 2mm. This is soft "give" what I assume it is rubber flex, but rear bearings don't do that. It is called bearing on EPC, but I know it is called bushing as well.
So is the 2 mm flex normal, or not?
I have EPC but did not figure out how to copy picture from it.
The bearing part is A 210 333 68 14
I found them available separately and do they require press to replace?

cmriv

yes, your lower control arm bushings will have some play. They are fluid filled. When they are bad, they make noise, or leak fluid. Some play is normal. However if your tires are chewed up then you may need the bushings replaced along with a bolt kit...

kajtek1

No fluid in the rear and I don't see fluid in front bushing that I removed. Will cut it to double check as WIS calls it "hydro bushing". I bought a press and was able to press front bushing out, but the 2 halves at the rear need some trick to be pressed. Is there a special tool for it?
To add to frustration, even the bushing look aged a bit, I think my knocking was due loose bolt in it. It was torqued pretty strong, but I see sign of the bolt thread wearing on the aluminium sleeve inside the hole.

kajtek1

http://workshop-manuals.com/mercedes...rm/page_16342/
Found the WIS, but can't make much sense out of it.
The pictures are not clear and description sucks.
What I understand that after removing front bushing, you should use long rod and via front eye press one half of rear out.
Than put arm vertically on press and press 1/2 half out.
Will see tomorrow morning.

bbirdwell

FWIW, I'm installing KMac bushings on the front of my E55. Rather than attempt to press out/in bushings while under the car, I ordered new front control arms, pressed out their bushings, and pressed in the KMac bushings. I used my friend Corky's (www.bellengineering.net) hydro/pneumatic press. It took a significant amount of juggling to obtain the correct combination of press tools. Having just replaced the rear bushings, I really don't want to mess with this while under the front of the car.


It was easier to purchase four new control arms with bushings and ball joints, pull the factory control arms, and install the replacements. I plan on rebuilding the original control arms with new bushings and ball joints in my spare time and placing the rebuilt control arms on the shelf as spares.


YMMV.

kajtek1

I removed my control arm quite easy from the car. It is 4M.
The problem is that rear bushing are two halves with flanges on both sides with nothing to grab on. I spend some time playing with it on press -only to push inner rubber from one.
Now seeing WIS I have better idea how to do it, but then will have to seek tools or rods for it.
Will see it tomorrow morning.
Those things have been lifetime items on older cars, so having the play at 160k is a surprise.
But it happens.