Lower ball joint and control arm
#1
Lower ball joint and control arm
I need to replace lower ball joints soon and was trying to find a control arm / ball joint assembly at a reasonable price ratcher than trying to press in/out the existing one,,, It looks like oreillyauto.com has some but was wondering if anyone else has tried these ?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...=Mercedes-Benz
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...=Mercedes-Benz
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#9
I realized that mine are worn out when I first bought the car and I did a little inspection. I saw that all the rubber parts where worn out, porous, and had cuts in them. So I changed the complete front end kit. I also realized a banging when I turned around corners.
#11
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2006 E320 CDI. So I have a bad/squeeky balljoint. I'm debating replacing just the ball joint vs. a complete front rebuild from Rock auto. I've replaced a control arm here; tie-rod there, and feel the suspension on these cars is a weak point. I don't like replacing components on one side and not the other, but have done it in the past. Trying to balance the cost of a complete rebuild vs the functionality of having a fresh front end.
So replace just the ball-joint or complete re-build, and is Moog worth the $200 premium over Raybestos for the kit?
So replace just the ball-joint or complete re-build, and is Moog worth the $200 premium over Raybestos for the kit?
#12
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05 E500. 03ml320. 12 C250 CGI BLUE efficiency
I have a squeeky front/drive side posable ball joint is this the complete kettle or is there more to it? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-W211-E-Control-Thrust-Strut-Arm-Upper-Lower-Ball-Joint-Joints-Set-6-/151242143418?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2005%7CMake%3AMercedes-Benz%7CModel%3AE500&hash=item2336bbf6ba&vxp=mtr
#13
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
I have a squeeky front/drive side posable ball joint is this the complete kettle or is there more to it? Mercedes W211 E Control Thrust Strut Arm Upper Lower Ball Joint Joints Set 6 | eBay
#14
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http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...050&cc=1432292
Sounds like were in the same squeaky boat. The front Moog ($700) or Raybestos ($450) kits have 8 peices - upper and lower control arms, as well as inner and outer tie-rod ends. The arms and ends include all balljoints and bushings. The cheaper solution is to just replace the ball joints (upper and/or lower) however this requires special tools and a press. Here is a list of the front suspension parts I've had replaced over the years:
06/23/06 2540miles Replaced Rt. lower control arm 2113309207
06/23/06 2540miles Replaced Rt. Shock 2113231100
4/20/11 52700miles Replaced outer tie rod end tire shop no part # only non dealer work.
4/25/11 52743miles replaced Rt. lower balljoint 2113300435
6/11/12 62277miles Replaced Lt. lower balljoint 211330435
4/19/13 68022miles Replaced front springs 2113211404
5/22/13 68194miles replaced Rt. upper balljoint 0003301007
9/03/14 78000miles need Lt upper balljoint
I should have replaced the whole thing in 2011 when it started going. Now I'm left wondering if I should just get a left upper balljoint or if given the mismatched age of all the parts I should replace everything. Is Moog worth the premium over Raybestos?
#15
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06 E320 CDI (GONE), 14 Jeep GC EcoDiesel, 01 Disco II (GONE), 09 BMW X3 3.0 Si Xdrive
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...050&cc=1432292
Sounds like were in the same squeaky boat. The front Moog ($700) or Raybestos ($450) kits have 8 peices - upper and lower control arms, as well as inner and outer tie-rod ends. The arms and ends include all balljoints and bushings. The cheaper solution is to just replace the ball joints (upper and/or lower) however this requires special tools and a press. Here is a list of the front suspension parts I've had replaced over the years:
06/23/06 2540miles Replaced Rt. lower control arm 2113309207
06/23/06 2540miles Replaced Rt. Shock 2113231100
4/20/11 52700miles Replaced outer tie rod end tire shop no part # only non dealer work.
4/25/11 52743miles replaced Rt. lower balljoint 2113300435
6/11/12 62277miles Replaced Lt. lower balljoint 211330435
4/19/13 68022miles Replaced front springs 2113211404
5/22/13 68194miles replaced Rt. upper balljoint 0003301007
9/03/14 78000miles need Lt upper balljoint
I should have replaced the whole thing in 2011 when it started going. Now I'm left wondering if I should just get a left upper balljoint or if given the mismatched age of all the parts I should replace everything. Is Moog worth the premium over Raybestos?
Sounds like were in the same squeaky boat. The front Moog ($700) or Raybestos ($450) kits have 8 peices - upper and lower control arms, as well as inner and outer tie-rod ends. The arms and ends include all balljoints and bushings. The cheaper solution is to just replace the ball joints (upper and/or lower) however this requires special tools and a press. Here is a list of the front suspension parts I've had replaced over the years:
06/23/06 2540miles Replaced Rt. lower control arm 2113309207
06/23/06 2540miles Replaced Rt. Shock 2113231100
4/20/11 52700miles Replaced outer tie rod end tire shop no part # only non dealer work.
4/25/11 52743miles replaced Rt. lower balljoint 2113300435
6/11/12 62277miles Replaced Lt. lower balljoint 211330435
4/19/13 68022miles Replaced front springs 2113211404
5/22/13 68194miles replaced Rt. upper balljoint 0003301007
9/03/14 78000miles need Lt upper balljoint
I should have replaced the whole thing in 2011 when it started going. Now I'm left wondering if I should just get a left upper balljoint or if given the mismatched age of all the parts I should replace everything. Is Moog worth the premium over Raybestos?
#16
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I decided to replace everything and do a total overhaul of the front suspension. The only exception is the front springs since they are only 1 year old, I didn't see aftermarket that weren't lowering, and I didn't want to re-order the same thing. (I'd like stiffer/HD springs - I hope these don't break again.)
I saw a DIY thread on this at Pelican and benzworld, but if anyone has a WIS I'd appreciate it. Here is my parts list.
MOOG RK620183 Control Arm Lower Right
MOOG RK620187 Control Arm Lower Left
MOOG RK620728 Control Arm Lower Right Pitman/Steering
MOOG RK620727 Control Arm Lower Left Pitman/Steering
MOOG K80493 Stabilizer Bar Link Right
MOOG K80492 Stabilizer Bar Link Left
MOOG K160304 Strut Mount X2
MOOG EV80975 Tie Rod End inners X2
MOOG ES800386 Tie Rod End left outer
MOOG ES800387 Tie Rod End right outer
MOOG RK620027 Control Arm Upper X2
MOOG K500168 Ball Joint Lower X2
Bilstein 24-069052-M512 Shock absorber X2
I know it's overkill, but my goal is to have a better/stronger than stock suspension when I'm finished.
#19
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W212 E-class, W211 E-class, F10 5-Series
I know all you guys are DIYers, but have any of you had the lower ball joints replaced at the dealership or at an indy mechanic? If so, approx. how much did it cost?
Thanks
Thanks
#20
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
My wagon, with struts has no wheel play, but I noticed uneven tire wear so did some inspection. Have alignment scheduled next week at the dealer, but in the mean time, when I put a pry bar under my control arms front bearings, I can move them about 2mm. This is soft "give" what I assume it is rubber flex, but rear bearings don't do that. It is called bearing on EPC, but I know it is called bushing as well.
So is the 2 mm flex normal, or not?
I have EPC but did not figure out how to copy picture from it.
The bearing part is A 210 333 68 14
I found them available separately and do they require press to replace?
Last edited by kajtek1; 11-08-2015 at 12:36 PM.
#21
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yes, your lower control arm bushings will have some play. They are fluid filled. When they are bad, they make noise, or leak fluid. Some play is normal. However if your tires are chewed up then you may need the bushings replaced along with a bolt kit...
#22
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
No fluid in the rear and I don't see fluid in front bushing that I removed. Will cut it to double check as WIS calls it "hydro bushing". I bought a press and was able to press front bushing out, but the 2 halves at the rear need some trick to be pressed. Is there a special tool for it?
To add to frustration, even the bushing look aged a bit, I think my knocking was due loose bolt in it. It was torqued pretty strong, but I see sign of the bolt thread wearing on the aluminium sleeve inside the hole.
To add to frustration, even the bushing look aged a bit, I think my knocking was due loose bolt in it. It was torqued pretty strong, but I see sign of the bolt thread wearing on the aluminium sleeve inside the hole.
Last edited by kajtek1; 01-22-2016 at 10:10 PM.
#23
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
http://workshop-manuals.com/mercedes...rm/page_16342/
Found the WIS, but can't make much sense out of it.
The pictures are not clear and description sucks.
What I understand that after removing front bushing, you should use long rod and via front eye press one half of rear out.
Than put arm vertically on press and press 1/2 half out.
Will see tomorrow morning.
Found the WIS, but can't make much sense out of it.
The pictures are not clear and description sucks.
What I understand that after removing front bushing, you should use long rod and via front eye press one half of rear out.
Than put arm vertically on press and press 1/2 half out.
Will see tomorrow morning.
#24
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
FWIW, I'm installing KMac bushings on the front of my E55. Rather than attempt to press out/in bushings while under the car, I ordered new front control arms, pressed out their bushings, and pressed in the KMac bushings. I used my friend Corky's (www.bellengineering.net) hydro/pneumatic press. It took a significant amount of juggling to obtain the correct combination of press tools. Having just replaced the rear bushings, I really don't want to mess with this while under the front of the car.
It was easier to purchase four new control arms with bushings and ball joints, pull the factory control arms, and install the replacements. I plan on rebuilding the original control arms with new bushings and ball joints in my spare time and placing the rebuilt control arms on the shelf as spares.
YMMV.
It was easier to purchase four new control arms with bushings and ball joints, pull the factory control arms, and install the replacements. I plan on rebuilding the original control arms with new bushings and ball joints in my spare time and placing the rebuilt control arms on the shelf as spares.
YMMV.
#25
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I removed my control arm quite easy from the car. It is 4M.
The problem is that rear bushing are two halves with flanges on both sides with nothing to grab on. I spend some time playing with it on press -only to push inner rubber from one.
Now seeing WIS I have better idea how to do it, but then will have to seek tools or rods for it.
Will see it tomorrow morning.
Those things have been lifetime items on older cars, so having the play at 160k is a surprise.
But it happens.
The problem is that rear bushing are two halves with flanges on both sides with nothing to grab on. I spend some time playing with it on press -only to push inner rubber from one.
Now seeing WIS I have better idea how to do it, but then will have to seek tools or rods for it.
Will see it tomorrow morning.
Those things have been lifetime items on older cars, so having the play at 160k is a surprise.
But it happens.