'05 CDI throttle unresponsive
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 338
Likes: 20
From: Charlotte, NC
2005 E320 CDI, 2015 GLA 250
'05 CDI throttle unresponsive
My '05 E320 CDI occasionally has an unresponsive throttle. I've had the EGR issues in the past, updated the EGR, and reflashed the brain box at 50,000 miles. The car now has 135,000 miles and typically gets 35 to 40+ mpg.
But this seems different.
Unlike the limp home mode of the failed EGR and the required resetting by switching off the car, this is more like the throttle pedal is either at a percentage or just plain disconnected. It also won't downshift.
But then it returns magically to normal a minute later. It has happened three times in the last month. Maybe this is the new failure mode for an EGR valve with a reflash.
But this seems different.
Unlike the limp home mode of the failed EGR and the required resetting by switching off the car, this is more like the throttle pedal is either at a percentage or just plain disconnected. It also won't downshift.
But then it returns magically to normal a minute later. It has happened three times in the last month. Maybe this is the new failure mode for an EGR valve with a reflash.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 563
Likes: 31
From: The Villages, Florida
2006 E320 CDI
Have you tried this:
Just Put the key in ignition, turn to pos 2, floor pedal for 5 to 20 seconds (nobody really knows who long it really takes), turn key back to off, leave it in the ignition though, then release gas pedal, wait until your cluster goes off (that's when your CAN-B CAN-Bus shuts down) and remove the key. Lock the car if you want or need to so you can go back inside the house.
This will reset the transmission and I do not know if it will do anything with the throttle. I assume that this is done with the doors closed.
Mike T.
Just Put the key in ignition, turn to pos 2, floor pedal for 5 to 20 seconds (nobody really knows who long it really takes), turn key back to off, leave it in the ignition though, then release gas pedal, wait until your cluster goes off (that's when your CAN-B CAN-Bus shuts down) and remove the key. Lock the car if you want or need to so you can go back inside the house.
This will reset the transmission and I do not know if it will do anything with the throttle. I assume that this is done with the doors closed.
Mike T.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 338
Likes: 20
From: Charlotte, NC
2005 E320 CDI, 2015 GLA 250
I've heard about this tranny reset and how wonderful it is. I have doubts about its efficacy on my throttle problem but I guess it wouldn't hurt to try it.
I'll give it a shot and let you know if things are any better.
Thanks,
Peter
I'll give it a shot and let you know if things are any better.
Thanks,
Peter
Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 242
Likes: 18
W211 320CDI -04, W210 270CDI -01
Tip above actually resets pedal position sensor at some level, not tranny...
It's not unheard that pedal sensor starts playing up. I've read similar 'dead zone' pedal problems but cannot recall was solution pedal or something else. MAF signal offset sometimes cause unresponsive behavior (If I understood right engine its totally slack and kick down is not working either).
I changed my gas pedal just months ago, but I was getting signal over voltage fault code. SDS showed it working nice when tested, but I got EML + fault code occasionally. So it was easy to pinpoint actual malfunction part for me. Second had pedals from ebay are around 50$.
What comes to pedal faults, WIS recommended to check out the corrosion of pedal connector. Pedal is really easy to replace, one nut under pedal and it goes off, draw it out some distance and then unplug the connector.
It's not unheard that pedal sensor starts playing up. I've read similar 'dead zone' pedal problems but cannot recall was solution pedal or something else. MAF signal offset sometimes cause unresponsive behavior (If I understood right engine its totally slack and kick down is not working either).
I changed my gas pedal just months ago, but I was getting signal over voltage fault code. SDS showed it working nice when tested, but I got EML + fault code occasionally. So it was easy to pinpoint actual malfunction part for me. Second had pedals from ebay are around 50$.
What comes to pedal faults, WIS recommended to check out the corrosion of pedal connector. Pedal is really easy to replace, one nut under pedal and it goes off, draw it out some distance and then unplug the connector.
