E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

Two quick 722.9 questions

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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 11:07 AM
  #1  
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Two quick 722.9 questions

Okay, I've read through all the 722.9 service posts and there are still two questions that I have. I've done the transmission flush on the 722.6 a few times, but never before on a 722.9.

My new car, by the way, is a low mileage 2007 E350, with an engine number out of the range for balance shaft problems.

The questions:

First, the WIKI info (from the W209 722.9 area) states that the crankshaft pulley bolt is 36mm, but elsewhere people have said that their bolts are smaller, and this larger size might be for an AMG engine. Can anyone clarify? Mine is a conventional 350 motor. I don't have sockets that big on hand, and would prefer to buy a single rather than an expensive set.

Second, is there any issue with the electro-hydraulic bushing O rings in the 722.9? I suspect not, given that it's not shown as a "frequently purchased" part on parts supplier sites, but I wonder if anyone knows the specifics. I replaced it on my old CLK, but don't know if it would be a good idea on my new-to-me E class.

By the way I'm all over the transmission fluid thing; I buy Shell ATF 134 from my local (Tampa) distributor, and they charge me $65 for a case of 12 qts. The rest of the parts (all genuine MB) are already on order from AutohausAZ.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 01:48 PM
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THE C350
If you have done the 722.6 the .9 is not much different (have done both).
As for the socket you need no clue but if you go to your local advanced they let me take out a few oil filter removal tools to find the right size so they probably would let you take a socket or two to see what fits.

They don't have the o ring problem the 722.6 had so don't worry about that but still do a normal search for leaks and transmission mount check.

Make sure to get a new drain plug for the Torque converter as you don't want it to leak. You will need a long torx to get to it FYI and don't spin the engine backwards a helper really helps as it is a pain to get lined up even with one.

Shell ATF 134 will work great!!

What your plan for pumping the fluid in and getting correct temperature for leveling fluid?

Have you bought replacement pan bolts?

Last edited by samaritrey; Apr 8, 2015 at 01:51 PM.
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 07:18 PM
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Thanks for the info!

Yes, I've ordered the new pan bolts, despite the fact that the bolt problems seem to be more of a snowbelt problem and I'm in south Florida.

My plan on filling the new pan is to use the recommended Mercedes refill tool (ordered online) with a jury-rigged hose on my Motive Power Bleeder. In brake work I've never put fluid in the reservoir, but instead just used it as a pressurizer. From another post, though, I heard that it was possible.

As to fluid level, I do have an infrared thermometer from my 722.6 experience. I'm hoping to have better luck bringing this car up to temperature than I did with my CLK. I could never get that thing up to full hot for an accurate reading so instead I just kind of winged it.
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 09:40 PM
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The bolts are actually not because of rust they are designed as use once.

I used a $10 garden sprayer the biggest issue is that once you pump the fluid you have to keep it in until the car is warmed up then drain it.

IR should work I used star and it took probably 30 minutes to get it up to temp.
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 10:07 PM
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That bit about winter weather and the transmission bolts comes from some other reading on the subject. My nice Florida pan bolts came out of my last car with no problem at all, and were indistinguishable from the replacements that I had picked up.
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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 05:35 PM
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Was also thinking I'd put a valve like this one in the fill line from the Motive power bleeder to the transmission pan. Three bucks at Home Depot.


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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 09:28 PM
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Wow good price I couldn't find a valve locally for under $25 so went with a pair of vice grips lol

I did use a quart of fluid to flush out all the tubes and stuff to make sure it was all clean.
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