Yet another W211 with a SBC failure
#51
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2004 Chrysler Crossfire
Not offended, but if you look around you will find that Mercedes does the same thing but calls it a software update. Not everyone under warranty got new units, some just get the software update.
#52
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
The rumors are that first years of SBC come with program set for 400,000 pushes.
Later MB found that the pumps last much longer just fine and extended the number to 500,000 pushes on later models, while updating software on older models.
How do you know your car doesn't have the 500 flash already?
#53
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2004 Chrysler Crossfire
Not everyone.
The rumors are that first years of SBC come with program set for 400,000 pushes.
Later MB found that the pumps last much longer just fine and extended the number to 500,000 pushes on later models, while updating software on older models.
How do you know your car doesn't have the 500 flash already?
The rumors are that first years of SBC come with program set for 400,000 pushes.
Later MB found that the pumps last much longer just fine and extended the number to 500,000 pushes on later models, while updating software on older models.
How do you know your car doesn't have the 500 flash already?
The point of my post was since I had the white and then the red warning with perfectly normal braking, is this consistent with the push counter or maybe a more serious issue?
#54
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
One owner admitted on forum that he was pushing the car maintenance to the extremes and was ignoring the warnings for long weeks.
After some time with red warning and normal brakes operation, the computer put car in limp mode.
Coming back to count flashing, it could be done by a dealer without your knowledge.
Point is that you intend to horseplay with your safety.
The system has big safety margin, but it is not endless.
After some time with red warning and normal brakes operation, the computer put car in limp mode.
Coming back to count flashing, it could be done by a dealer without your knowledge.
Point is that you intend to horseplay with your safety.
The system has big safety margin, but it is not endless.
#55
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2004 Chrysler Crossfire
One owner admitted on forum that he was pushing the car maintenance to the extremes and was ignoring the warnings for long weeks.
After some time with red warning and normal brakes operation, the computer put car in limp mode.
Coming back to count flashing, it could be done by a dealer without your knowledge.
Point is that you intend to horseplay with your safety.
The system has big safety margin, but it is not endless.
After some time with red warning and normal brakes operation, the computer put car in limp mode.
Coming back to count flashing, it could be done by a dealer without your knowledge.
Point is that you intend to horseplay with your safety.
The system has big safety margin, but it is not endless.
Again, my only question is if the white and then red warning comes on with perfectly normal braking is this consistent with hitting the counter limit?
#56
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W204 C63 AMG, W212 E250 CGI, C207 E250 CGI
Again, I do my own maintenance and the car has never been to a dealer since I owned it which is almost its entire life. I let my Star/DAS system go with the sale of the V8 Crossfire I built and need to get another. I have read that that the SDC system can only be updated twice. Not sure if this is fact or fiction.
Again, my only question is if the white and then red warning comes on with perfectly normal braking is this consistent with hitting the counter limit?
Again, my only question is if the white and then red warning comes on with perfectly normal braking is this consistent with hitting the counter limit?
have you looked into this?
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-easy-diy.html
#60
Funny enough...but not really funny, my SBC went out on 11/23. I have 06 CDI. Luckily covered under the recall (which i mentioned to the service person). GF was scared as **** while i was driving home using the emergency brakes.
#61
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Tell us more beafer?
I know first impression when you loos booster is scary, but I drove 7 tons motorhome for 200 miles with no boost and it is doable.
What exactly happen in your case?
I know first impression when you loos booster is scary, but I drove 7 tons motorhome for 200 miles with no boost and it is doable.
What exactly happen in your case?
#62
Mostly the same story. Went out that night to dinner. Parked car. Came back out, saw water on the ground (couldn't really tell since it was night)...chalked it up to condensation from AC compressor, started car and dash lit up with ESP disabled, brake pressure reduced. I put the car in drive, and almost hit a car in the parking lot if not for the e-brake. Car was in limped mode that night and the next morning when i took it to dealer.
I'm happy i had the mindset to use e-brake as the braking mechanism.
I'm happy i had the mindset to use e-brake as the braking mechanism.
#63
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
But did the emergency hydraulics on main brakes clicked in?
Although fluid on the ground sounds like different failure than others.
Keep us posted as that sounds like broken hose?
Although fluid on the ground sounds like different failure than others.
Keep us posted as that sounds like broken hose?
#67
Interesting question about no warning before failure. Most cars don't give any warning before their standard vacuum boot system fails; so why is no warning such a surprise on your MB?
I think I'm in agreement that it's the price to fix it after failure that is the problem. The part price has come down even in the short time I've been an owner so that's not the problem. The problem, IMO, is the $1500 labor to install a $300 part that takes approximately 4 shop hours to do.
Can we all say "ripoff"?
I do have 1 question though: MY SBC is now "humming" during operation and for a short time after shutdown. Normal or indicating an accumulator failure in the near future?
I think I'm in agreement that it's the price to fix it after failure that is the problem. The part price has come down even in the short time I've been an owner so that's not the problem. The problem, IMO, is the $1500 labor to install a $300 part that takes approximately 4 shop hours to do.
Can we all say "ripoff"?
I do have 1 question though: MY SBC is now "humming" during operation and for a short time after shutdown. Normal or indicating an accumulator failure in the near future?
#68
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Don't know about any system that will give you a warning before the part breaks.
The warnings on SBC are about coming service due on the pump or when system switches to emergency mode.
Broken hose or pipe will not give you warning, but this is first case when something like that happen.
On positive side, beside pumps getting cheaper, more and more indies learn how to operate SD.
There are couple guys in So California that will scan your car for $45 v/s dealers's $200/300
I know guys who will program SBC to your car as well and will even program key, but those things bring liability issues, so you have to be very careful with advertising.
The warnings on SBC are about coming service due on the pump or when system switches to emergency mode.
Broken hose or pipe will not give you warning, but this is first case when something like that happen.
On positive side, beside pumps getting cheaper, more and more indies learn how to operate SD.
There are couple guys in So California that will scan your car for $45 v/s dealers's $200/300
I know guys who will program SBC to your car as well and will even program key, but those things bring liability issues, so you have to be very careful with advertising.
#69
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Interesting question about no warning before failure. Most cars don't give any warning before their standard vacuum boot system fails; so why is no warning such a surprise on your MB?
I think I'm in agreement that it's the price to fix it after failure that is the problem. The part price has come down even in the short time I've been an owner so that's not the problem. The problem, IMO, is the $1500 labor to install a $300 part that takes approximately 4 shop hours to do.
Can we all say "ripoff"?
I do have 1 question though: MY SBC is now "humming" during operation and for a short time after shutdown. Normal or indicating an accumulator failure in the near future?
I think I'm in agreement that it's the price to fix it after failure that is the problem. The part price has come down even in the short time I've been an owner so that's not the problem. The problem, IMO, is the $1500 labor to install a $300 part that takes approximately 4 shop hours to do.
Can we all say "ripoff"?
I do have 1 question though: MY SBC is now "humming" during operation and for a short time after shutdown. Normal or indicating an accumulator failure in the near future?
ripoff? I mean if you go about installing a new pump the correct way it takes a long time-there are multiple steps and alot of brake fluid required. It isn't like if you were a tech and replacing a sbc pump you could multitask and work on something else. This job requires full attention start to finish.
That humming and buzzing is normal-self checks are being performed and your calipers are being adjusted once vehicle is shut off to help with the dry-braking feature sbc has.
#70
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#71
#73
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That recall is not related to SBC replacement, it appears to be a recall related to the hydraulic system and brake pressure AFTER SBC failure. It seems like this could be the cause for those people that reported having zero brake pressure after SBC failure. Just curious if your car had it done prior to your SBC going out.
#74
That recall is not related to SBC replacement, it appears to be a recall related to the hydraulic system and brake pressure AFTER SBC failure. It seems like this could be the cause for those people that reported having zero brake pressure after SBC failure. Just curious if your car had it done prior to your SBC going out.
#75
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Well I am going to join this conversation late, my 2005 E320 CDI now needs a new SBC, dealer confirmed that it was going (white light). Not under warranty so can I just buy new/reman one from ECS tuning and replace it myself. Since I am going to replace the whole unit and not take it apart, will I run into a software problem? Can't really get a answer since most seem to just take it to the dealer. Thanks