e550SF

Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the pads need to be bedded only if you change your rotors?

Long Islander

I've seen instructions for three different pad manufacturers recommend break in procedures. By following those instructions, I've had no issues with brake noise. It's very easy, so why not do it?

Long Islander

I just watched that video and my front brake calipers/pads don't look anything like the ones in the video. I don't know what year E class he worked on, but it doesn't look the same as mine.

kajtek1

We have 4M so brakes should be different.

Long Islander

I see. Anyone have instructions for pad replacement on a 4matic?

Long Islander

I checked Youtube and found nothing. Anyone?

kajtek1

Did the pads on 4M just couple months ago and don't remember any problems with them.
Meaning they are straight-forward job.
Than I did "few" brakes in my life already.
Best advice on doing brakes you are not familiar with is to lift whole front, remove both wheels and do one side at the time. This way if you got lost on the procedure, you can go to other side and take a look how it fits.

e550SF

I found a Youtube video on W212 4M.


Very good advice.

Long Islander

Looks like a helpful video. The spring on mine is more like a wire, but other than that, hopefully the procedure is very similar.

kajtek1

I watch the video with sound off and looks like the guy likes to whine a lot
First the spring is hold on the center hole, so instead of bending it like the video shows, just lift it with flat screwdriver close to the hole.
Than before you pull the caliper - insert flat bar under old pads and push the pistons back to gain clearance for the rim.
I like to open the bleeder and drop the fluid out, while refilling fresh one into reservoir.
Having several different pry bars I can push the pistons all the way in (careful to not nick rotor if you plan to save it) so no need to use the screw later on.

Long Islander

Thanks, good tips.

Long Islander

Instead of using a bolt and used brake pad to push the piston back, could you use a brake pad spreader like the one shown below?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/a...rake+spreader#

The problem I see with that tool on the car shown on the video is that there seems to be nothing for the plate on the tool to push against since you can't fit the tool through the hole in the outer side of the caliper.

e550SF

Those won't work for the E550. I bought this:

Long Islander

I replaced the front pads with Akebono last weekend. Overall, pretty simple, but a bit time consuming (about 2 hours for a first timer). Knowing that the caliper release bolts are behind dust caps helped. The bolts on mine were Allen heads (I forget what size). Assuming you can't get under the car, it helps to have good lighting and a mirror, because the bolts are screwed in from the back. There's also another Allen head you need to remove, which holds the wear sensor in place (passenger side only). My wear sensor had not activated so I wasn't planning on replacing it, but I ended up breaking it during removal. Luckily, I had an extra MB OEM sensor. Also, the Akebono pad came with a black sensor and a white one, so I could have used that.

I ended up buying the brake spreading tool in the link from Autozone, and it was very useful. It helps if you put the used pad in front of the piston and use that to push the piston back. Don't forget to lower the brake fluid reservoir because when you push back the piston, the fluid goes back into the reservoir.

I used proper break-in procedures, and I have no noise. Brake dust seems very low, but a bit early to tell.

Thanks to everyone for the tips.