E320 CDI Crank Sensor Replacement
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05 E320 CDI, 04 Sprinter 2500 158"
E320 CDI Crank Sensor Replacement
I searched all over on here and Google and didn't come up with any good info for changing the crank position sensor on the CDI. Plenty for the V6 gasser, but none for the I6 diesel. I ended up doing it with a combination of AllData DIY, Pelican Parts tech info, and a youtube video of an S320 CDI. There were a few things I learned that I figured someone here could use to make the job much easier.
Step 1: Remove the driver side engine cover. You should be able to get to it with just this cover removed.
Step 2: Locate the sensor. It is right next to the firewall on the block directly aft of the fuel filter and EGR valve. You will only see the the wire/connector.
Step 3: Hose clamp positioning. There is a spring type hose clamp on what I presume is the EGR cooler. Rotate this clamp so the prongs are facing the front of the car if at all possible. Your right hand will thank you. Remember this for later, your right hand is the only one that will fit in that space.
Step 4: Removing the connector. The release that you have to press to get the connector off is directly under the part where it makes a 90 degree bend. The only way I found to press this was to get an inspection mirror and use it to help put a zip tie around the very top of the release. Then push down to make sure the connector is seated and however you can, get the zip tie tightened as much as possible so it holds the release. If you do this right, it should come right off.
Step 5: Removing the sensor. You will need a 1/4 drive E8 socket, a 1/4 drive swivel, and some extensions. Once you manage to get the socket in place, this part is self explanatory. One note, I did not remove the bolt from the sensor at this point. I also placed a retrieval magnet just below the sensor to catch any dropped sockets etc. It worked... multiple times.
Step 6: Carefully pull the sensor and bolt out.
Step 7: Put the bolt in the new sensor and carefully put it back in place.
Step 8: Tighten the bolt. The torque value is 11 NM (97 in-lb) according to all data.
Step 9: Carefully cut the zip tie off of the connector
Step 10: Put the connector on the new sensor
Step 11: Reinstall the engine cover. The torque value is 9 NM (80 in-lb) according to all data. I know, I am the only person in the world that actually torques these things, but I figure I have the torque wrench out anyway, why not?
It took me 3 hours to do this last night, but 2.5 of that was figuring out how to get the the connector off and the bolt out. I think I could do it again in under an hour.
And one last thing. Don't be stupid like me. Scan for codes BEFORE you convince yourself that your starting problem is the crank sensor and you spend $157 on the part from the dealer and your whole evening replacing it only to have worse issues when you start it back up and then finally decide to read the codes and find out you really needed the cam position sensor which is more expensive still, and appears to be about a 20 minute job instead of a whole evening.
Hopefully nobody needs this, but I figured it would put it here just in case there is someone searching for this info like I was.
Step 1: Remove the driver side engine cover. You should be able to get to it with just this cover removed.
Step 2: Locate the sensor. It is right next to the firewall on the block directly aft of the fuel filter and EGR valve. You will only see the the wire/connector.
Step 3: Hose clamp positioning. There is a spring type hose clamp on what I presume is the EGR cooler. Rotate this clamp so the prongs are facing the front of the car if at all possible. Your right hand will thank you. Remember this for later, your right hand is the only one that will fit in that space.
Step 4: Removing the connector. The release that you have to press to get the connector off is directly under the part where it makes a 90 degree bend. The only way I found to press this was to get an inspection mirror and use it to help put a zip tie around the very top of the release. Then push down to make sure the connector is seated and however you can, get the zip tie tightened as much as possible so it holds the release. If you do this right, it should come right off.
Step 5: Removing the sensor. You will need a 1/4 drive E8 socket, a 1/4 drive swivel, and some extensions. Once you manage to get the socket in place, this part is self explanatory. One note, I did not remove the bolt from the sensor at this point. I also placed a retrieval magnet just below the sensor to catch any dropped sockets etc. It worked... multiple times.
Step 6: Carefully pull the sensor and bolt out.
Step 7: Put the bolt in the new sensor and carefully put it back in place.
Step 8: Tighten the bolt. The torque value is 11 NM (97 in-lb) according to all data.
Step 9: Carefully cut the zip tie off of the connector
Step 10: Put the connector on the new sensor
Step 11: Reinstall the engine cover. The torque value is 9 NM (80 in-lb) according to all data. I know, I am the only person in the world that actually torques these things, but I figure I have the torque wrench out anyway, why not?
It took me 3 hours to do this last night, but 2.5 of that was figuring out how to get the the connector off and the bolt out. I think I could do it again in under an hour.
And one last thing. Don't be stupid like me. Scan for codes BEFORE you convince yourself that your starting problem is the crank sensor and you spend $157 on the part from the dealer and your whole evening replacing it only to have worse issues when you start it back up and then finally decide to read the codes and find out you really needed the cam position sensor which is more expensive still, and appears to be about a 20 minute job instead of a whole evening.
Hopefully nobody needs this, but I figured it would put it here just in case there is someone searching for this info like I was.
Last edited by cincigp; Jan 26, 2016 at 12:50 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 22
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From: CALIFORNIA
e350 2007
E350 2007 I need to change the crankshaft position sensor, do you have pictures how it is installed in relation to the EGR cooler? I have been agonizing how to change it. With barely space to move my hand I need help.....
