Why I will never buy a Mercedes again..
07-08-2016, 01:40 PM
#26
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2007 E350, sport & P1
They are expensive to own only if you start taking them to mechanics.
I bought first of recent W211 with > 140k miles and in 3 years put about $300 in parts in it. Most of the money spend on replacing worn seats.
2nd W211 will take more as Bluetec has >160k miles, but I hope that after spending $500 on new MM, GP, fuel lines and filters, ALTERNATOR BRUSHES - I will be good for several years.
Than 30-35 mpg on cheap diesel will give me lot of savings day after day.
Sure that is much more comparing to several MB we did own in last 15 years, where annual cost of parts averaged about $50 to date. I buy higher-mileage MB at bargain price.
I bought first of recent W211 with > 140k miles and in 3 years put about $300 in parts in it. Most of the money spend on replacing worn seats.
2nd W211 will take more as Bluetec has >160k miles, but I hope that after spending $500 on new MM, GP, fuel lines and filters, ALTERNATOR BRUSHES - I will be good for several years.
Than 30-35 mpg on cheap diesel will give me lot of savings day after day.
Sure that is much more comparing to several MB we did own in last 15 years, where annual cost of parts averaged about $50 to date. I buy higher-mileage MB at bargain price.
I loved my car, but purchaser have to accept the fact that they are purchasing a $50-60K car that requires service with expensive parts. An indy repair shop could probably save you 25% on your service.
Dave
07-08-2016, 04:09 PM
#27
Super Member
I'm in the same boat as you man. I bought my E500 in January 2015, had 250,000 km and paid $7,000 for it.
So far, I've had to do about $10,527 in repairs (probably more), which you can see in my maintenance list below. The worst was when the Engine started chewing up oil, had to reseal the engine, that happened at 300,000 km which is pretty pathetic in my eyes as I was expecting more from a V8 Benz engine.
It's kind of sobering to see how much money I've burnt on this car, could've bought a brand new one by now. Not to mention the countless days and weekends lost in garages. These repairs are with an indy too. My biggest mistake was spending $8,000 dollars from January of this year - I had to do the engine reseal, new rear air shocks, transmission flush, engine tune up, and front axle rods. My mechanic on two occasions said that I was pretty close to totaling the car, once he said that my engine had half the total capacity of oil and second he said my front axle boot ripped and was probably days from complete failure.
I would have never believed these cars are so fragile, I drive it like a grandfather, easy on the throttle and slow to rev and come to stops smoothly. With the engine oil leak, it was spewing but my dash oil sensor never once indicated that the engine was missing oil, it was only when I brought it to the shop because the car performance was feeling sluggish - this was just 2 weeks after I did an oil change
.
If I knew, I should have junked the car back in January saved 8K, but now that I've essentially doubled down there's no turning back, going to ride this puppy to its last breath.
I will say this though, the car is fully loaded, glass ceiling, push to start, and everything in the driver seat is adjustable with air bags - can not live without this! Plus, the knowledge that the car will protect me and I will most likely walk away without a scratch is also priceless. My car before this was an BMWE46 320i that was wrecked in a rear end by an Escalade going 60 mph and I walked away with a sore neck and still showed up to work pulling off a 12 hour work day, so I will always go for German cars for the safety engineering and mechanical structure alone.
Initially I was really disappointed and disheartened at the money I spent, but now it's almost like a badge of honour. The amount of hours I've spent learning how cars works is a positive in my book. The body style in my eyes is timeless. Right now, it's sitting in the parking lot until I change the faulty transmission conductor plate, which I am going to do myself.
The poster above made a good point, this car was probably upwards of 75K new with all the extras, and I don't have to pay any of the depreciation costs. I'm pretty sure I've jumped over the big repair hurdles, hopefully smooth sailing from here on out
TLDR, lessons I've learnt:
- have to learn to do stuff and wrench on the car yourself
- buy parts from disassembled / chopped cars when it makes sense
- next E class must not have air suspensions
So far, I've had to do about $10,527 in repairs (probably more), which you can see in my maintenance list below. The worst was when the Engine started chewing up oil, had to reseal the engine, that happened at 300,000 km which is pretty pathetic in my eyes as I was expecting more from a V8 Benz engine.
It's kind of sobering to see how much money I've burnt on this car, could've bought a brand new one by now. Not to mention the countless days and weekends lost in garages. These repairs are with an indy too. My biggest mistake was spending $8,000 dollars from January of this year - I had to do the engine reseal, new rear air shocks, transmission flush, engine tune up, and front axle rods. My mechanic on two occasions said that I was pretty close to totaling the car, once he said that my engine had half the total capacity of oil and second he said my front axle boot ripped and was probably days from complete failure.
I would have never believed these cars are so fragile, I drive it like a grandfather, easy on the throttle and slow to rev and come to stops smoothly. With the engine oil leak, it was spewing but my dash oil sensor never once indicated that the engine was missing oil, it was only when I brought it to the shop because the car performance was feeling sluggish - this was just 2 weeks after I did an oil change
. If I knew, I should have junked the car back in January saved 8K, but now that I've essentially doubled down there's no turning back, going to ride this puppy to its last breath.
I will say this though, the car is fully loaded, glass ceiling, push to start, and everything in the driver seat is adjustable with air bags - can not live without this! Plus, the knowledge that the car will protect me and I will most likely walk away without a scratch is also priceless. My car before this was an BMWE46 320i that was wrecked in a rear end by an Escalade going 60 mph and I walked away with a sore neck and still showed up to work pulling off a 12 hour work day, so I will always go for German cars for the safety engineering and mechanical structure alone.
Initially I was really disappointed and disheartened at the money I spent, but now it's almost like a badge of honour. The amount of hours I've spent learning how cars works is a positive in my book. The body style in my eyes is timeless. Right now, it's sitting in the parking lot until I change the faulty transmission conductor plate, which I am going to do myself.
The poster above made a good point, this car was probably upwards of 75K new with all the extras, and I don't have to pay any of the depreciation costs. I'm pretty sure I've jumped over the big repair hurdles, hopefully smooth sailing from here on out
TLDR, lessons I've learnt:
- have to learn to do stuff and wrench on the car yourself
- buy parts from disassembled / chopped cars when it makes sense
- next E class must not have air suspensions
Yes, the car is "new" to you, but it is not a new car and who the hell knows how the previous owners treated it. All that has to be factored in what you think is a bargain $75,000 car that you managed to get for $7,000. As the likely third or even forth owner of such a luxury car, this is kind of what you should expect if you want to buy higher mileage luxury or sports cars. I'm not belittling you or making light of the significant amount of money you've already had to dish out in repair bills. I'm just trying to say that you have to expect up-front that if you're going to buy an older high mileage vehicle that has a LOT of very expensive options, any of which is very expensive to repair, that you have to be prepared for the true cost of ownership.
I've seen many [people over the years, on a lot of different sites, post that this or that brand luxury or sports car sucks, because something broke on their 150,000, 200,000 or 300,000 car that they paid $5,000 to $10,000 for. That they previously had a Toyota or Honda econo box and it just ran and ran and ran and they never spent a dime on repairs other than oil changes and tires. That is comparing apples and oranges. I don't know of any luxury or sports car brand where their vehicles with that kind of high mileage would be cheap to own.
Fortunately, you have now repaired the car and should be able to get a lot of enjoyable use out of it. As you said, a MB in a accident will keep you safe a lot better than the typical Japanese econo box. So just enjoy you car and next time, pick a car that has a few less high cost options on it like the airmatic suspension system.
07-08-2016, 04:55 PM
#28
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Sorry, but I disagree. I did most of my own work, brakes, oil changes, etc. But paying $400.00 for a wheel alignment that required camber bolts from the dealer, and transmission service of $350.00 which is also a dealer only service,will take your breath away pretty quickly. Not to mention non rotatable tires on sport packages that require replacement at @20K miles if your lucky, at $250.00 each. Under warranty my car required crank sensors, a new fuel tank, motor mounts, air-conditioning evaporators twice.
I loved my car, but purchaser have to accept the fact that they are purchasing a $50-60K car that requires service with expensive parts. An indy repair shop could probably save you 25% on your service.
Dave
I loved my car, but purchaser have to accept the fact that they are purchasing a $50-60K car that requires service with expensive parts. An indy repair shop could probably save you 25% on your service.
Dave
First time I took my car to a shop in last 10 or 15 years.
I am researching DIY on 7sp service and found some topics that all you need is about $20 tools to do so.
Like everything in life, it come a lot to luck. Years ago having relatively new W210 4M I had to buy axle for $1200. That was the worse luck I had with Mercedes.
So I realize would SBC come to end of count, I will have to eat the bill.
Good part suspension had bags replaced short before I bought the car and compressor rebuild kits on ebay went down $17
07-08-2016, 06:39 PM
#29
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ecu tune; edok tcu tune; BB intakes; dyno tuned
This thread makes me laugh
07-08-2016, 07:40 PM
#31
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I think cry is more appropriate
People have no idea about basic economics.
When car is smaller sample, this is the same reason why we do have record number of house foreclosures in last years.
Somebody bought expensive house, without checking that the flexible loan has promotional interest rate, that will make the monthly payment low for a year, or 2.
But reality chase uneducated people and when promotion ends, they will find out that they can't afford the house.
Strictly economics.
People have no idea about basic economics.
When car is smaller sample, this is the same reason why we do have record number of house foreclosures in last years.
Somebody bought expensive house, without checking that the flexible loan has promotional interest rate, that will make the monthly payment low for a year, or 2.
But reality chase uneducated people and when promotion ends, they will find out that they can't afford the house.
Strictly economics.
07-09-2016, 01:57 AM
#32
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2007 CLS550
Hey everyone. This is my first post. I have been creeping pretty hard this last week (probably spent 10+ hours) and decided to finally create an account and join. I just recently bought a 2007 CLS550 and definitely can share some of that worry and depressing feelings. Everything you guys have said so far makes a lot of sense: getting a good deal on a used car while paying a fraction of the original price while getting more good use of the car for the value. Reading that one really perked me up. Thanks Kajtek1. I would like to share my story with you all and maybe if its interesting enough, hopefully get some feedback. I would love some input because the last 2 weeks have been crazy frustrating.
I had an 05 CTS that ive had since 07, took good care of it and it had no issues. I ended up trading it in for the CLS. They both had similar miles and I absolutely love the body style of the older CLS's so I thought it would be an awesome change. Since I got it, Ive already had to put in over a grand. New Centrifuge- old was leaking, new rear tires, 4 wheel balance, new tire pressure sensor, weld bracket to reconnect muffler. Pretty near to being tapped out now considering I bought an extended used car warranty (covers powertrain- engine/trans, electrical, ac, and some other stuff). Now Im starting to deal with the gas leak problem and P0012 P0022 codes saying I need solenoids replaced. They said the car was in great working order, which they obviously lied... Crazy to believe, I know... lol, anyways. I dont really know what to expect. I worry because I learned about the idle gear problem after I already bought it and the research I did before I purchased led me to believe it was a good deal if the car was actually what they were making it out to be. I have a ton of questions and thought this was the best place to ask to get different points of view. These might not be in order but I would like to ask you guys the first ones that come to mind.
1) Do you guys think the CLS will continue to be one problem after another past 100k miles?
I have a hopeful expectation that once I replace/fix the issues, it will be good to go for a while, is that an unreasonable expectation?
2) If the car has 100,000 miles and the idle gear problem hasnt came up yet to my knowledge, now or from previous owners... Is it unreasonable to think mine may not be one that could be affected? It falls about 4000 numbers shy of the acceptable range. what ratio do you guys think the cars have that problem good/bad... 1/4. 1/2... From my understanding, not ALL of them have that problem, just some.
3) Is the repair for this potential problem less time consuming/expensive than replacing the balance shaft like on the V6 model? From what I have pieced together, for the M272 engine you need to take it completely out, but with the 273 it is just the gear? Is that correct or no? Could the gear be replaced without having to take the whole engine out?
4) Would an extended warranty thats supposed to cover drive train, cover this fault or would they try to weasel out of it? I know this is just personal opinion, but do you guys think the extended warranty is even worth it? Does anyone have anyone experience when it comes to the used car warranties when it comes to filing a claim that would care to share? I wonder if it is better to just save up money and put it away for parts that wear out that the warranty doesnt cover anyway or stick with it because they do come in handy down the road. I plan to keep this car for the entire 5 years the warranty is good for.
5) Does anyone have any experience with the P0012 and P0022 codes? After the solenoids are changed, did the check engine light turn off? Is $640 a reasonable amount of money to pay for MB to change them out? I know the "stealership" like you guys often state are some amount more expensive but I am a little unsure of when would be a good time to take it there or to a good regular mechanic. Does anyone have a rule of thumb for that?
Wow I can seriously go on but dont want to turn this into a book. Thank you guys in advance for the insight/help. I really appreciate it. Are there any other suggestions/ideas you guys have? I am all ears when it comes to recommendations for this situation, I am really lost. I love the car and many aspects of it, I just dont really know how to handle all this. Thanks again, have a great evening everyone.
I had an 05 CTS that ive had since 07, took good care of it and it had no issues. I ended up trading it in for the CLS. They both had similar miles and I absolutely love the body style of the older CLS's so I thought it would be an awesome change. Since I got it, Ive already had to put in over a grand. New Centrifuge- old was leaking, new rear tires, 4 wheel balance, new tire pressure sensor, weld bracket to reconnect muffler. Pretty near to being tapped out now considering I bought an extended used car warranty (covers powertrain- engine/trans, electrical, ac, and some other stuff). Now Im starting to deal with the gas leak problem and P0012 P0022 codes saying I need solenoids replaced. They said the car was in great working order, which they obviously lied... Crazy to believe, I know... lol, anyways. I dont really know what to expect. I worry because I learned about the idle gear problem after I already bought it and the research I did before I purchased led me to believe it was a good deal if the car was actually what they were making it out to be. I have a ton of questions and thought this was the best place to ask to get different points of view. These might not be in order but I would like to ask you guys the first ones that come to mind.
1) Do you guys think the CLS will continue to be one problem after another past 100k miles?
I have a hopeful expectation that once I replace/fix the issues, it will be good to go for a while, is that an unreasonable expectation?
2) If the car has 100,000 miles and the idle gear problem hasnt came up yet to my knowledge, now or from previous owners... Is it unreasonable to think mine may not be one that could be affected? It falls about 4000 numbers shy of the acceptable range. what ratio do you guys think the cars have that problem good/bad... 1/4. 1/2... From my understanding, not ALL of them have that problem, just some.
3) Is the repair for this potential problem less time consuming/expensive than replacing the balance shaft like on the V6 model? From what I have pieced together, for the M272 engine you need to take it completely out, but with the 273 it is just the gear? Is that correct or no? Could the gear be replaced without having to take the whole engine out?
4) Would an extended warranty thats supposed to cover drive train, cover this fault or would they try to weasel out of it? I know this is just personal opinion, but do you guys think the extended warranty is even worth it? Does anyone have anyone experience when it comes to the used car warranties when it comes to filing a claim that would care to share? I wonder if it is better to just save up money and put it away for parts that wear out that the warranty doesnt cover anyway or stick with it because they do come in handy down the road. I plan to keep this car for the entire 5 years the warranty is good for.
5) Does anyone have any experience with the P0012 and P0022 codes? After the solenoids are changed, did the check engine light turn off? Is $640 a reasonable amount of money to pay for MB to change them out? I know the "stealership" like you guys often state are some amount more expensive but I am a little unsure of when would be a good time to take it there or to a good regular mechanic. Does anyone have a rule of thumb for that?
Wow I can seriously go on but dont want to turn this into a book. Thank you guys in advance for the insight/help. I really appreciate it. Are there any other suggestions/ideas you guys have? I am all ears when it comes to recommendations for this situation, I am really lost. I love the car and many aspects of it, I just dont really know how to handle all this. Thanks again, have a great evening everyone.
07-09-2016, 02:21 PM
#33
Super Member
Hi Fresh222,
I guess you didn't ask to see the service history on the car or verify if it had ever been in an accident before buying. Never rely on what a salesman says. That said, what you have spent on repairing so far is what I would call minor stuff. The rear tires being worn out could have been checked on inspection before handing over a check. That you missed it can be chalked up to being caught up in the moment of buying your first MB. As for having to rebalance the wheels after a tire change, well yeah that is pretty much standard. The tire pressure senor is minor stuff, as is the weld bracket. Given the age and mileage of the car, these little things are bound to pop-up. My concern is you view them as already placing a major financial strain on your budget.
As a few of us here have already pointed out, the parts to repair your car are priced on what the car originally sold for new. So if you can't afford to the up-keep on what was originally a $75K car that you just happened to buy for a whole lot less, then you should reconsider whether you can realistically maintain it going forward. The old buy what you can afford to maintain really does apply to virtually every car brand. Whether it is MB or a BMW, Porsche, Maserati, Ferrari etc., virtually every luxury or sports car brand is the same when it comes to what it costs to maintaining the older, higher mileage vehicles you can pick up for a fraction of their original cost. That said, if you properly maintain and service the car properly, it should be good for years and years of additional use.
As for your five specific questions, I'll leave them for someone else. I haven't bought a used car for quite a while. I didn't like the headache of having to pay to take care of the previous owner's neglect or shrimping on necessary repair and up-keep. So I strictly buy new cars and keep them for at east 10 to 15 years each. That way you know from day one how the car was driven, that it was properly maintained and the "surprises" are kept to a bare minimum.
I guess you didn't ask to see the service history on the car or verify if it had ever been in an accident before buying. Never rely on what a salesman says. That said, what you have spent on repairing so far is what I would call minor stuff. The rear tires being worn out could have been checked on inspection before handing over a check. That you missed it can be chalked up to being caught up in the moment of buying your first MB. As for having to rebalance the wheels after a tire change, well yeah that is pretty much standard. The tire pressure senor is minor stuff, as is the weld bracket. Given the age and mileage of the car, these little things are bound to pop-up. My concern is you view them as already placing a major financial strain on your budget.
As a few of us here have already pointed out, the parts to repair your car are priced on what the car originally sold for new. So if you can't afford to the up-keep on what was originally a $75K car that you just happened to buy for a whole lot less, then you should reconsider whether you can realistically maintain it going forward. The old buy what you can afford to maintain really does apply to virtually every car brand. Whether it is MB or a BMW, Porsche, Maserati, Ferrari etc., virtually every luxury or sports car brand is the same when it comes to what it costs to maintaining the older, higher mileage vehicles you can pick up for a fraction of their original cost. That said, if you properly maintain and service the car properly, it should be good for years and years of additional use.
As for your five specific questions, I'll leave them for someone else. I haven't bought a used car for quite a while. I didn't like the headache of having to pay to take care of the previous owner's neglect or shrimping on necessary repair and up-keep. So I strictly buy new cars and keep them for at east 10 to 15 years each. That way you know from day one how the car was driven, that it was properly maintained and the "surprises" are kept to a bare minimum.
07-09-2016, 04:00 PM
#34
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Since topic diverted to service record >>> DON'T relay on them.
I just bought 2007 Blutetec with perfect records.
Single female owner, service book stamped regularly.
The car exterior and interior are perfect and only observant person will notice couple of miniature wears that differ looks of car with 160k from new one in showroom.
BUT the "dealer service" shows under the hood.
lot of scratches, very filthy engine, garbage in engine bay, badly beaten-up motor mounts, kinked intercooler hose with open cracks, air filters that add 1.5 seconds to 0-60 acceleration time (likely original).
Meaning without owners standing over mechanics head, the big money will not guarantee the car will run perfect and I believe only the poor service was the reason why the original owner traded very nice car and I could get it for 15% of original price.
I don't go to dealers (unless Part Dept) but have feeling that "technicians" have no mechanical skills and once the jobs require more than plugging OBD or oil change - they will rather talk the owner into buying new vehicle.
Good for guys like me, bad for Original Poster.
On the other hand we originally bought 1999 ML320. That was model with extremely crappy reviews, that cost lot of owners even $3000 year after year.
The car spend 13 years in our family, costing us $3-400 in replaced parts. That makes about $30 annual repair cost with DIY.
Good luck on our part? Maybe, but I prize perfectly running car for the fact that beside couple of recalls no professional mechanic lay hand on it.
The $2400 extended warranty was money down the drain.
I just bought 2007 Blutetec with perfect records.
Single female owner, service book stamped regularly.
The car exterior and interior are perfect and only observant person will notice couple of miniature wears that differ looks of car with 160k from new one in showroom.
BUT the "dealer service" shows under the hood.
lot of scratches, very filthy engine, garbage in engine bay, badly beaten-up motor mounts, kinked intercooler hose with open cracks, air filters that add 1.5 seconds to 0-60 acceleration time (likely original).
Meaning without owners standing over mechanics head, the big money will not guarantee the car will run perfect and I believe only the poor service was the reason why the original owner traded very nice car and I could get it for 15% of original price.
I don't go to dealers (unless Part Dept) but have feeling that "technicians" have no mechanical skills and once the jobs require more than plugging OBD or oil change - they will rather talk the owner into buying new vehicle.
Good for guys like me, bad for Original Poster.
On the other hand we originally bought 1999 ML320. That was model with extremely crappy reviews, that cost lot of owners even $3000 year after year.
The car spend 13 years in our family, costing us $3-400 in replaced parts. That makes about $30 annual repair cost with DIY.
Good luck on our part? Maybe, but I prize perfectly running car for the fact that beside couple of recalls no professional mechanic lay hand on it.
The $2400 extended warranty was money down the drain.
Last edited by kajtek1; 07-09-2016 at 04:05 PM.
07-11-2016, 07:14 PM
#35
MBWorld Fanatic!
this is some funny shyt forreal. People buying 60-70 THOUSAND dollar cars whinning about repair fees. You all are mad but did someone put a gun to your head telling you to buy this used European vehicle? Since any of you have been alive when have you ever heard REPAIRS on EDM (euro domestic motor) cars being cheap and inexpensive? I have major disconnect with why the price of fixing it is so baffling? Oh, repairs being done under warranty i read also, I'm not sure what world all the "dissatisfied" customers live in, but ALL manufactures have common defects with all types of components failing. By that i mean there's 2015 c class models running around that need new connecting rods and bearing caps... product defect isn't some new thing that came about when the 211 came out.
Fact is, people who are salty about the product took a bigger bite then they could swallow.
Sbc pump: doe's require maintenance, fluid being changed regularly and before it fails you are warned with a update, PLUS there was a recall/warr extension on all SBC pumps, and if you paid out of pocket you were re-reimbursed.
Airmatic: dude it's air suspension, should of bought a v6....
Alternator: pretty sure any gas combustion engine will have a alternator that fails at some point.
As for mister PU91, issues with this BS estimate (by bs i mean the shop overlapping/overcharging) you attached a photo of, front axle rod "jobs" accumulate to 2200$, WHAT in the EF? they better have been titanium carbon wrapped axles for that. And why were they even replaced?
Wheels: those were a "want" not need correct? couple that with the fact he charged you for 4 tires close to 800$, which aint bad at all, then another 120 to balance them? dealerships don't even charge that much to balance tires...
Tune up: bosch plugs and "wiring" whatever that means for 480$. THEN directly below it "engine developed leak" I'll assume he's referring to valve covers leaking???? Regardless it also says "replaced ignition coils".... If ignition coils need to be removed to do spark plugs why are spark plugs costing me 480$???? hmmmmm What i'm getting at is It's cheaper to get a valve cover reseal at a dealership cheaper then that... and "coils" were replaced during the spark plug replacement with "wiring"....
rear shocks: Never heard of replacing rear shocks at 1600$ but okay.....
AS for the w211 chasis... If you talk to any MB tech, since in theory they fix all/most models of MERKS, the W211 2009 is probably the best vehicle they have ever built. Call me biased because i own one sure, but one thing i do know is I very rarely see them in the shop with some drastic issue. mine has 111K on the clock, factory airmatic struts, pump and filter. original engine mounts installed, just now starting to leak. Rear struts are noisy but they as well are original. Alternator water pump power steering pump a/c compressor intake manifold on and on and on all ORIGINAL. I guess what i'm saying is do your DANG homework before purchasing any expensive high end car. Can't be mad at the product. There are other manufactures you could of bought....
Disagree with KAJTEK about service history. When looking at service history don't look at things that "have" been done (unless like major engine issues or re-occruing issues), look at what hasn't been done.... If a random who wanted a w211 got on this forum and poked around for a week or so they would certainly have a gyst of how much or just about how much it will set them back to own vehicle. But he is correct in the fact why is did thisl ow mileage nice vehicle get traded in?????
oh with everything that's been said, haven't heard or seen anyone mention they had a cpo on their vehicle... Meaning buying a used MERK is always sketchy business.... Unless you lucky like me and buy one sight unseen and get it shipped to you and it being flawless for the most part. That's rare but it happens, the gems are out there you just gotta do your homework and search around!!!!!!!
Fact is, people who are salty about the product took a bigger bite then they could swallow.
Sbc pump: doe's require maintenance, fluid being changed regularly and before it fails you are warned with a update, PLUS there was a recall/warr extension on all SBC pumps, and if you paid out of pocket you were re-reimbursed.
Airmatic: dude it's air suspension, should of bought a v6....
Alternator: pretty sure any gas combustion engine will have a alternator that fails at some point.
As for mister PU91, issues with this BS estimate (by bs i mean the shop overlapping/overcharging) you attached a photo of, front axle rod "jobs" accumulate to 2200$, WHAT in the EF? they better have been titanium carbon wrapped axles for that. And why were they even replaced?
Wheels: those were a "want" not need correct? couple that with the fact he charged you for 4 tires close to 800$, which aint bad at all, then another 120 to balance them? dealerships don't even charge that much to balance tires...
Tune up: bosch plugs and "wiring" whatever that means for 480$. THEN directly below it "engine developed leak" I'll assume he's referring to valve covers leaking???? Regardless it also says "replaced ignition coils".... If ignition coils need to be removed to do spark plugs why are spark plugs costing me 480$???? hmmmmm What i'm getting at is It's cheaper to get a valve cover reseal at a dealership cheaper then that... and "coils" were replaced during the spark plug replacement with "wiring"....
rear shocks: Never heard of replacing rear shocks at 1600$ but okay.....
AS for the w211 chasis... If you talk to any MB tech, since in theory they fix all/most models of MERKS, the W211 2009 is probably the best vehicle they have ever built. Call me biased because i own one sure, but one thing i do know is I very rarely see them in the shop with some drastic issue. mine has 111K on the clock, factory airmatic struts, pump and filter. original engine mounts installed, just now starting to leak. Rear struts are noisy but they as well are original. Alternator water pump power steering pump a/c compressor intake manifold on and on and on all ORIGINAL. I guess what i'm saying is do your DANG homework before purchasing any expensive high end car. Can't be mad at the product. There are other manufactures you could of bought....
Disagree with KAJTEK about service history. When looking at service history don't look at things that "have" been done (unless like major engine issues or re-occruing issues), look at what hasn't been done.... If a random who wanted a w211 got on this forum and poked around for a week or so they would certainly have a gyst of how much or just about how much it will set them back to own vehicle. But he is correct in the fact why is did thisl ow mileage nice vehicle get traded in?????
oh with everything that's been said, haven't heard or seen anyone mention they had a cpo on their vehicle... Meaning buying a used MERK is always sketchy business.... Unless you lucky like me and buy one sight unseen and get it shipped to you and it being flawless for the most part. That's rare but it happens, the gems are out there you just gotta do your homework and search around!!!!!!!
07-11-2016, 09:03 PM
#36
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Don't quite get what you disagree about with me?
All service done at the dealer doesn't guarantee the necessary jobs are done.
And who is better qualify to tell that at 150k miles alternator brushes need to be replaced than dealer's Service Adviser?
Fact that dealers can make from $50 Voltage Regulator a 4-digits job is another story.
All service done at the dealer doesn't guarantee the necessary jobs are done.
And who is better qualify to tell that at 150k miles alternator brushes need to be replaced than dealer's Service Adviser?
Fact that dealers can make from $50 Voltage Regulator a 4-digits job is another story.
07-11-2016, 11:11 PM
#37
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Staten Island, NY
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2011 GL 550, 2010 MB S550, 2004 BMW 645Cic 1988 Corvette
this is some funny shyt forreal. People buying 60-70 THOUSAND dollar cars whinning about repair fees. You all are mad but did someone put a gun to your head telling you to buy this used European vehicle? Since any of you have been alive when have you ever heard REPAIRS on EDM (euro domestic motor) cars being cheap and inexpensive? I have major disconnect with why the price of fixing it is so baffling? Oh, repairs being done under warranty i read also, I'm not sure what world all the "dissatisfied" customers live in, but ALL manufactures have common defects with all types of components failing. By that i mean there's 2015 c class models running around that need new connecting rods and bearing caps... product defect isn't some new thing that came about when the 211 came out.
Fact is, people who are salty about the product took a bigger bite then they could swallow.
Sbc pump: doe's require maintenance, fluid being changed regularly and before it fails you are warned with a update, PLUS there was a recall/warr extension on all SBC pumps, and if you paid out of pocket you were re-reimbursed.
Airmatic: dude it's air suspension, should of bought a v6....
Alternator: pretty sure any gas combustion engine will have a alternator that fails at some point.
As for mister PU91, issues with this BS estimate (by bs i mean the shop overlapping/overcharging) you attached a photo of, front axle rod "jobs" accumulate to 2200$, WHAT in the EF? they better have been titanium carbon wrapped axles for that. And why were they even replaced?
Wheels: those were a "want" not need correct? couple that with the fact he charged you for 4 tires close to 800$, which aint bad at all, then another 120 to balance them? dealerships don't even charge that much to balance tires...
Tune up: bosch plugs and "wiring" whatever that means for 480$. THEN directly below it "engine developed leak" I'll assume he's referring to valve covers leaking???? Regardless it also says "replaced ignition coils".... If ignition coils need to be removed to do spark plugs why are spark plugs costing me 480$???? hmmmmm What i'm getting at is It's cheaper to get a valve cover reseal at a dealership cheaper then that... and "coils" were replaced during the spark plug replacement with "wiring"....
rear shocks: Never heard of replacing rear shocks at 1600$ but okay.....
AS for the w211 chasis... If you talk to any MB tech, since in theory they fix all/most models of MERKS, the W211 2009 is probably the best vehicle they have ever built. Call me biased because i own one sure, but one thing i do know is I very rarely see them in the shop with some drastic issue. mine has 111K on the clock, factory airmatic struts, pump and filter. original engine mounts installed, just now starting to leak. Rear struts are noisy but they as well are original. Alternator water pump power steering pump a/c compressor intake manifold on and on and on all ORIGINAL. I guess what i'm saying is do your DANG homework before purchasing any expensive high end car. Can't be mad at the product. There are other manufactures you could of bought....
Disagree with KAJTEK about service history. When looking at service history don't look at things that "have" been done (unless like major engine issues or re-occruing issues), look at what hasn't been done.... If a random who wanted a w211 got on this forum and poked around for a week or so they would certainly have a gyst of how much or just about how much it will set them back to own vehicle. But he is correct in the fact why is did thisl ow mileage nice vehicle get traded in?????
oh with everything that's been said, haven't heard or seen anyone mention they had a cpo on their vehicle... Meaning buying a used MERK is always sketchy business.... Unless you lucky like me and buy one sight unseen and get it shipped to you and it being flawless for the most part. That's rare but it happens, the gems are out there you just gotta do your homework and search around!!!!!!!
Fact is, people who are salty about the product took a bigger bite then they could swallow.
Sbc pump: doe's require maintenance, fluid being changed regularly and before it fails you are warned with a update, PLUS there was a recall/warr extension on all SBC pumps, and if you paid out of pocket you were re-reimbursed.
Airmatic: dude it's air suspension, should of bought a v6....
Alternator: pretty sure any gas combustion engine will have a alternator that fails at some point.
As for mister PU91, issues with this BS estimate (by bs i mean the shop overlapping/overcharging) you attached a photo of, front axle rod "jobs" accumulate to 2200$, WHAT in the EF? they better have been titanium carbon wrapped axles for that. And why were they even replaced?
Wheels: those were a "want" not need correct? couple that with the fact he charged you for 4 tires close to 800$, which aint bad at all, then another 120 to balance them? dealerships don't even charge that much to balance tires...
Tune up: bosch plugs and "wiring" whatever that means for 480$. THEN directly below it "engine developed leak" I'll assume he's referring to valve covers leaking???? Regardless it also says "replaced ignition coils".... If ignition coils need to be removed to do spark plugs why are spark plugs costing me 480$???? hmmmmm What i'm getting at is It's cheaper to get a valve cover reseal at a dealership cheaper then that... and "coils" were replaced during the spark plug replacement with "wiring"....
rear shocks: Never heard of replacing rear shocks at 1600$ but okay.....
AS for the w211 chasis... If you talk to any MB tech, since in theory they fix all/most models of MERKS, the W211 2009 is probably the best vehicle they have ever built. Call me biased because i own one sure, but one thing i do know is I very rarely see them in the shop with some drastic issue. mine has 111K on the clock, factory airmatic struts, pump and filter. original engine mounts installed, just now starting to leak. Rear struts are noisy but they as well are original. Alternator water pump power steering pump a/c compressor intake manifold on and on and on all ORIGINAL. I guess what i'm saying is do your DANG homework before purchasing any expensive high end car. Can't be mad at the product. There are other manufactures you could of bought....
Disagree with KAJTEK about service history. When looking at service history don't look at things that "have" been done (unless like major engine issues or re-occruing issues), look at what hasn't been done.... If a random who wanted a w211 got on this forum and poked around for a week or so they would certainly have a gyst of how much or just about how much it will set them back to own vehicle. But he is correct in the fact why is did thisl ow mileage nice vehicle get traded in?????
oh with everything that's been said, haven't heard or seen anyone mention they had a cpo on their vehicle... Meaning buying a used MERK is always sketchy business.... Unless you lucky like me and buy one sight unseen and get it shipped to you and it being flawless for the most part. That's rare but it happens, the gems are out there you just gotta do your homework and search around!!!!!!!
07-12-2016, 06:07 PM
#38
MBWorld Fanatic!
Don't quite get what you disagree about with me?
All service done at the dealer doesn't guarantee the necessary jobs are done.
And who is better qualify to tell that at 150k miles alternator brushes need to be replaced than dealer's Service Adviser?
Fact that dealers can make from $50 Voltage Regulator a 4-digits job is another story.
All service done at the dealer doesn't guarantee the necessary jobs are done.
And who is better qualify to tell that at 150k miles alternator brushes need to be replaced than dealer's Service Adviser?
Fact that dealers can make from $50 Voltage Regulator a 4-digits job is another story.
07-12-2016, 06:11 PM
#39
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
But how do you expect the buyer to know what hasn't been done, when SA stamps book with full service?
You make no sense.
You make no sense.
07-12-2016, 07:07 PM
#40
MBWorld Fanatic!
It's not rocket science, idk what stamps you are talking about. Stop getting so offended when someone doesn't agree with you. You are notorious for this. chill bro.
07-12-2016, 07:10 PM
#41
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I think you are the one who gets offended bro.
Looks to me like we are talking about the same thing, you just like to twist it out of recognition.
Tell me what dealer advise replacing alternator brushes?
Looks to me like we are talking about the same thing, you just like to twist it out of recognition.
Tell me what dealer advise replacing alternator brushes?
07-12-2016, 07:36 PM
#42
MBWorld Fanatic!
