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Hey guys. I did a search on this topic, but the last thing that I could come up with was that everyone was saying that replacement bushings were not available for the w211. However, I found the following two bushings that are listed for the w211 and just wanted to make sure that it is the proper part before I go ahead and order it. I'm assuming the procedure would be similar to the w210? FYI, I have an 06 E500.
$12.40 replacement part that is known to wear out and age?
your car is 10 years old regardless the mileage.
OK, I did bushings on W210 years ago and I think they were 1-piece, what took some play to replace.
Those looks like easy to replace halves.
I would not go overboard with parts replacement, but inspect, inspect. If you have hydro-bushings in your suspension, those would be on top of replacement list.
What about motor mounts?
Motor mounts and transmission mount are both pretty new. Recently replaced by the previous owner. Only looking to refresh the front suspension as I have a squeak from the front left suspension when I hit hard bumps, and rattling from the front right which i suspect is the sway link end and/or bushing. Just trying to keep my E in good shape.
The second eBay link is a one piece item. I'm hoping that's the right piece as I don't feel like replacing the entire sway bar.
2nd is split bushing for $50
Coming from Chinese seller with questionable feedback might take a month to arrive.
The parts look different on pictures, but those days everybody is using generic pictures.
You can take a look how yours look like, but I still would rather risk $12 with US seller, than $50 with Chinese.
I have to thank you for your research personally.
Our 2008 has some knocks that I was planning to ignore, but heck, I can spend $12 for parts now and replace them at later convenience.
Got my bushings from Fabest and they look good quality (although hard to judge rubber by the looks) but 1 of 4 halves is different, having smooth outer surface v/s hex shape.
Will have to double check there is no error.
Wife took the car today and we will be busy for next couple of days, so it has to wait.
I finally went under the car to spend quality time and measure the febest bushings.
They measure about 28mm, while my sway bar is 33.5mm.
Will check how good is febest CS.
Side note, the bushing clamps sit on the top of the rail and I did not have good access to them from under the car.
Quite possible going from wheel wells after removing inner fenders will be the proper way, but not having right part, I did not go that far.
NOPE, ignored my emails.
There is slim chances that the bushings are design to squeeze to different size, so I am planning to give them a try next time I pull wheels off, but most likely I lost $12.
Today I went to Disneyl.... khm.. junk yard mostly for the fun.
When I was pulling parts for W210, the JY had one W211 on the lot and since the engine was already removed, I could get to SB bushings relatively easy.
Now I have better experience how those things are build and I have bad news:
1. the bracket holding the bushing has 1 of the bolts going under the body frame. On JY I just took pry bar and removed it the hard way, but I think proper way to get it off is loosening frame cross member.
2. The bushings seem to be vulcanized to the bar. I was able to cut one half, but I teared the rubber at the bar surface, so it is no longer usable.
Looks like the bushings have been design to last lifetime and there is no easy service. Even cleaning the bar and adding new bushing will not give the adhesion factory vulcanizing gives, so either live with it, or get whole new sway bar.
My RF sway bar bracket was pushed back from a collision prior to my ownership. After driving 60K with it like that it finally failed. The sway bar bracket blew apart. I ordered both bushing kits that you mentioned, but after reading your post I see I will need a sway bar assembly to get the correct bushings. (Thank you for your post) My bracket and bushing seem to be one piece? Does the bushing piece have any metal around it? Or is the metal the bracket itself? None of it seems to match those pictures of junky bushings in your links. Anyone have a sway bar for sale? Part# 2113235765
I also need the right bracket assembly. Is the rear half of the bracket part of the engine cradle Part # 2116202087 ?
I have a pair of these in my garage that I ordered from China. I ordered them before my research indicated that they are not the fix. I can't remember for sure but I think I ended up ordering the whole sway bar assembly. Sorry I can't be of more help, but I am 95% sure the rubber bushings alone are useless. I still have the broken part on my desk, and the metal bracket and rubber are somehow fused together. I will sell you the ones that I have for cheap if you want to try them.
From my understanding, the originals are volcanized to the bar...ok. So will these not work?
Man I have replaced every suspension part and cant get rid of that annoying cracking sound every time I turn corners.
I think you're better off just getting the entire bar. The price of the part seems to be down, only about $85 but verify it by supplying your vin with the order. Surprisingly under $15 for shipping, if it was going to be much more, I'd just pay list price at the local dealer.
Thanks for your quick reply. Yea, I have already got these on order now. Was doing a research on installation when I stumbled on this thread. Guess I have decided to order the entire Sway Bay Assembly. Just to be sure it's done correctly. If anyone can share an installation video on this procedure, that would be cool. Everything I'm finding are for 4matics only.
I think you're better off just getting the entire bar. The price of the part seems to be down, only about $85 but verify it by supplying your vin with the order. Surprisingly under $15 for shipping, if it was going to be much more, I'd just pay list price at the local dealer.
UPDATE:
Well, After I have jacked up my Benz and inspect the Stabilizer Bar and Brackets. As kajtek1 mentioned above that the inner bolts does not have easy access. It appears that the Crossmember has to be lowered in order for these bolts to clear. There is just no way around it. Since I don't have access to an Engine Lift. I will be forced to take my Benz to the dealer to have the Sway Bar to be replaced.
Last edited by Gangrene3075; Mar 13, 2021 at 12:20 AM.
Just an F Y I -- I had to put up with that annoying "creak" noise when the left front spring was compressed -- FOR FIVE AND A HALF YEARS ! ! !
My car made several trips to service at the selling dealer, including one lasting over 5 weeks. They could replicate the sound but had no idea how to fix. . . Refused to escalate to MB. Threw parts at it (strut, anti-sway bar end links, etc.) but no fix.
I moved my service (for both MB's) to dealer #2 after dealer #1 scraped my right front door moving the car around in their service department, and left the damage for me to find and report. (They did fix, fairly well, small damage.) Dealer #2 worked with me, but since my noise was heavily affected by ambient temperature (quiet in warm weather, creaky in colder), it seemed that every time I made a winter service appointment, it got warm. Fast forward to this past winter. It got really cold and stayed cold long enough to get the car in. They heard the noise loud and clear. They disconnected the left anti-sway bar end link and drove the car. QUIET!
OK, that's the back-story. The path to repair per MB service is that one MUST replace the entire anti-sway bar with bushings. Attempting to replace just the bushings is not an approved repair. They changed my anti-sway bar and both end links, and the car is finally the quietest it has been since delivered to me with 9 miles on the clock.
Moral of the story -- If you think you can get by with just changing the bushings. . . you probably can't.
Many owners try (hence the "parts" available on the internet) because, with 4Matic, it is a real bugger of a job. You do have to move/release a lot of other components to get at the brackets and get the bar out, but per MB, that's the "only" way to do it.
Just an F Y I -- I had to put up with that annoying "creak" noise when the left front spring was compressed -- FOR FIVE AND A HALF YEARS ! ! !
My car made several trips to service at the selling dealer, including one lasting over 5 weeks. They could replicate the sound but had no idea how to fix. . . Refused to escalate to MB. Threw parts at it (strut, anti-sway bar end links, etc.) but no fix.
I moved my service (for both MB's) to dealer #2 after dealer #1 scraped my right front door moving the car around in their service department, and left the damage for me to find and report. (They did fix, fairly well, small damage.) Dealer #2 worked with me, but since my noise was heavily affected by ambient temperature (quiet in warm weather, creaky in colder), it seemed that every time I made a winter service appointment, it got warm. Fast forward to this past winter. It got really cold and stayed cold long enough to get the car in. They heard the noise loud and clear. They disconnected the left anti-sway bar end link and drove the car. QUIET!
OK, that's the back-story. The path to repair per MB service is that one MUST replace the entire anti-sway bar with bushings. Attempting to replace just the bushings is not an approved repair. They changed my anti-sway bar and both end links, and the car is finally the quietest it has been since delivered to me with 9 miles on the clock.
Moral of the story -- If you think you can get by with just changing the bushings. . . you probably can't.
Many owners try (hence the "parts" available on the internet) because, with 4Matic, it is a real bugger of a job. You do have to move/release a lot of other components to get at the brackets and get the bar out, but per MB, that's the "only" way to do it.
I had replaced ball joints, lower control arms, upper ball joint, struts and just a few weeks after I developed a squeak and knock sound when going over a driveway lip on the left side, but couldn‘t locate the source, was living with it. . Weeks later the right side started with the same noise, thought it was the new shocks. Right kept getting worse. Months later I Got under with a dead blow hammer started beating around. The noise centered around the stab bar at the link pins, as I had removed the lower bolt of the link pin and loosened the upper bolt to do the prior suspension work. The upper bolt is a 12mm hex socket head. I could see the upper bolt was slightly loose on the right side. At the time of the suspension work I didn‘t have a 12mm allen wrench to hold the bolt so I just wrenched on the nut, but low and behold I didn‘t get it tight enough. There isn‘t much clearance so I bought a 1/2 drive 12mm allen socket (Titan 3 pcs set (12,14,17) from AutoZone and punched out the 12mm bit from the socket and use a 12mm closed end wrench to hold the bit in the bolt head while I tightened it. That cured the pop/ping/knock/squeak noise.
UPDATE 2: Dropped my Benz off at the Dealer on Monday for Sway Bar installation. Informed the Service Advisor they may as well install my Motor Mounts I been hanging on to for a few years now, sitting in my Garage. Since the Cross Member will be off they will have easy access to the Motor Mounts anyways. Picked my Benz up today. Man oh man...My E500 is now super quiet without a creak or squeal.
Last edited by Gangrene3075; Mar 19, 2021 at 04:21 PM.
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