raverx3m

looking for help with removing the motor from 06 e350 4matic
what to watch out for
in what order should I remove parts
and the front axles


which plug to disconnect


and especially what not to do( costly noob mistakes)
I'm not a noob to mechanical work or even engine rebuilding but I never worked on Mercedes.






somehow I forgot to post what I'm doing lol


I'm fixing the balance shaft issue. not upgrading an engine


I got the front de-parted already. ac compressor is off and all the other accessories off the timing chain cover is off also


downpipe and motor mounts are no problem


but I just want to make sure theres no crazy sht to remove front axles and separate the transmission from the motor

Plutoe

Hey Biff, this is not a front yard activity,therefore I would suggest that you go to Startek.com put your VIN in and get the factory documents to do the job correctly---else drive the car to the bay area and look for BW ***** who will tell you tha can do the job in an hour!!

kajtek1

Another proof that Plutoe will never admit "I have no clue"
You are taking big project on your hands and I hope you know the deal about marrying computers.
I think you will find it easier with MB engine than with older ones, as instead of maze of cables and hoses, you have couple of electric plugs to pull, beside stuff like axles and shafts. Lot of them are snap-in mounted, so takes seconds to disconnect.
Motor mounts are very easy as well.
Don't expect too many DIY coming here with experience and I am pretty sure not too many dealers replace MB engines on daily basis. So can't find WIS for whole engine removal, but here are pages you will find useful in case you don't want to spend money per Plutoe advise.
http://workshop-manuals.com/mercedes...t_description/

Plutoe

You have just been spammed---be watchful!!

raverx3m

updated first post

raverx3m

does startek let you save the pages or print them out of you have to only have it on the computer and cant save them?
because 24 hours is 60 bucks




is there even a paper service manual for these cars?

or a pdf version of shop manual?

that workshop-manuals page is not very detailed

kajtek1

My EPC will not let me copy the pages, but I am using screenshot captor for that.
No paper shop manual, but ebay is selling illegal electronic copies.

konigstiger

Yes you can print or save workshop instructions (WIS), VIN specific parts info (EPC), and bulletins.

raverx3m

getting down to the torque converter now.


is there a rear engine mount on this?


and also is there a simplified torque specs list floating around somewhere for this motor?
m272 like the valve cover torque bolts and all the crap on the front of the motor?
the info is really scattered allover interwebs for this.


I work on Hondas mostly and have more service manuals than I have use for the nice part is that all the info is available everywhere copy pasted over and over lol.

rapidoxidation

http://www.alldatadiy.com/
Worth every penny, in my experience using it with 10+ automobiles.

raverx3m

short update.


Mercedes is like a hot GF that has a mole on her V*G.
its all good but sometimes its like WTF is that who did this sht.
why is there a hydraulic line purposely blocking a transmission case bolt?
why is hydraulic line attached to the oil pan where theres absolutely no acess to the bolt from anywhere until you lift the motor...




but overall I'm pretty happy with the design and well though out everything.
even the WTF parts seem to be designed that way for whatever they had in mind.
probably to charge people more

cetialpha5

Yeah, wait til you change the oil by removing the bolt. Oil splashes against the side so it ends up running everywhere. Most other cars I've had never had the oil stream hitting the car.

kajtek1

Mercedes design their engines for oil extraction about 40 years ago.
You want to talk about difficult access, try Ford Powerstroke.
EGR cooler replacement is 2 days job.

raverx3m

I'm guessing the differential on the pass side has to come out lol
the 4 matic model fun times
I looked at it and walked away today after removing the wheels
save it for tomorrow
everything else is out just need to take out the axles and the box on the side

kajtek1

I hope you are taking lot of pictures?
With complexity of those engines - not too many DIY are attempting such job, so forum knowledge is starving for such pictorial.

raverx3m

My cellphones kinda kept breaking.but i will snap pics in reverse order i got my new phone fixed finally.

raverx3m

well I'm stuck on the gearbox on the side of the motor.
pass side the gearbox that connects to the shaft that goes to the rear of the car.


its impossible to remove it seems like.


the hydraulic line is between that and the motor. who the f does that.. they really want you to disconnect aht hydraulic line so they can charge customers more


anyway.. 4matic is in my way right now. not helping at all.
anyone have input on removing that somehow?


I took the axles out which was actually easier than Honda.
everything else is pretty much ready all around the motor just that damn box on the pass side of the oil pan with inaccessible bolts from any direction and I need it out to unbolt the transmission cooler line from oil pan

raverx3m

special tool#2 to hold the crank in place instead of buying the MB special tool to hold the flex plate gear

a breaker bar. and the bolt is out with no air tools or much struggle

engine bay empty










the crap that took me 2 days to work around







the balance shaft gear. I am very lucky it didn't break yet. only the plastic outer ring broke apart and is inside the oil pan



the chain looks to be in good condition. is there a way to tell that its stretched with bad balance shaft?
I'm trying to keep cost down and not replace the parts that are still good

the chain tensioner is pretty worn though





harbor freight pick tools fit perfectly in those holes



tools I used
2 sets of torx sockets from sears. 2 sets of sockets from harbor freight
2 10 and 11mm long rachets. and other 10mm 11mm small sockets to remove the cover bolts under the cam gears

kjb55

How many miles on the engine - the gear doesn't look too bad. Did you have the codes?

raverx3m

110000 miles. guy says codes came up few months ago.
looks like he drove about 3000-6000 miles after codes came up


I got lucky the teeth didn't break off yet
the timing is off though


the code p0016 and p0017 plus incorrect timing and bouncy belt tensioner gave it away.






now a really puzzling discovery I made yesterday.


why in the hell theres no threads on replacement timing chain cover ( the thermostat or any other holes..that makes no sense

kajtek1

I can only guess that the holes are latest technology when they use self-taping bolts to speed up the production.

raverx3m

oil pump looks good. Lucky

Btw for anyone wanting to see if theoil pump is damaged or not. Remove oil pickup and flash light into the hole where you see oil pump gear. If gear surface is clean no scratches its good. If there are scratches on one sueface it means metal was in it.


Now the question is
How do i tell if the chain is stretched?
There were no metal chunks in the oil only plastic.
And only one side timing marks were off like its described in balance shaft service bulletin

when timing chain stretches the timing "coins" wouldbe off center on both heads correct?

cmriv

replace chain if you are replacing balance shaft. 200$ part and takes seconds to install. Otherwise you'll get 10k on new shaft and have same exact code.... chain stretched. Just my two cents....


timing marks will be off if gear on balance shaft is worn and or like you said, stretched chain... replace both.

new pulse wheels
cam magnets
oil pump
i would replace all of the above even IF they look to be okay.

raverx3m

Its 200 plus another 600.
Im not trying to replace parts without need. Noobs throw parts at the motor. i make sure the part is damaged before replacing.
I almost ordered oil pump without need for it
Those chains supposed to last for the life of the motorif im not mistaken.

kajtek1

That worn out sprocket had to leave sign on the chain.
Replace the chain.