E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

Subwoofer Replacement / Alternative

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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 09:49 AM
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garrettmoore's Avatar
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'09 E550
Subwoofer Replacement / Alternative

Like many others, the brown cone around the magnet of my subwoofer has separated. I've tried rubber cement many times and it continues to happen. It may be spent.

Is it possible to simply run the wires to a new subwoofer in the trunk?

If so, does anyone know the specs I should be looking at?
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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 10:06 PM
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lotusing's Avatar
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Great question. I never looked at the sub in the car and being that I don't drive it much I have changed it or even looked into changing it. You need to take out the sub and take the measurements, see how many ohms the speaker is and what watt it is rated at? Then go to a jl audio website and have them match it and I would add a small amp to power it and it will change your whole sound experience. I have do to ever car that I drive more and it is defiantly worth it.
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Old Dec 3, 2016 | 04:27 PM
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2014 ML63 AMG, 2012 McLaren MP4-12C, 1999 GMC Sierra, 1994 Chevy Astro, 1990 Honda CRX
Originally Posted by garrettmoore
Like many others, the brown cone around the magnet of my subwoofer has separated. I've tried rubber cement many times and it continues to happen. It may be spent.

Is it possible to simply run the wires to a new subwoofer in the trunk?

If so, does anyone know the specs I should be looking at?
Can you take the factory sub out and put another one in its place and use the factory wiring? Yes. Are there some things to observe when doing that? Yes. I do know there will be some fabrication to make one mount up that isn't a factory replacement. You would need a sub suitable for infinite baffle. From a power standpoint, I don't know how much power the factory amp puts out, nor do I know which system you have. This is assuming you aren't wanting to put a sub box in the trunk. If you do, the only real concern will be related to power.

I've considered putting one of these in the factory spot http://www.emfcaraudio.com/sundown-a...d-3-10-dual-2/ and seeing how it does on the factory amp, then adding more power if needed till I change out the entire system. Now, the only issue with using that sub is metal has to be cut and it will hang lower than the factory sub, losing some trunk height, and the protection of the metal that was cut out.

If you're using a sub not explicitly designed for infinite baffle, power handling will be reduced when used that way.

Originally Posted by lotusing
Great question. I never looked at the sub in the car and being that I don't drive it much I have changed it or even looked into changing it. You need to take out the sub and take the measurements, see how many ohms the speaker is and what watt it is rated at? Then go to a jl audio website and have them match it and I would add a small amp to power it and it will change your whole sound experience. I have do to ever car that I drive more and it is defiantly worth it.
That is exactly what not to do. Not all subs are meant for infinite baffle, and physical measurements are the least of the problems with changing it out.
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