Drove my 2005 w211 e500, sudenly it started to studder and feeling low on power before cutting out. Now its hard to start and when it starts i dies instantly.

everything looks fine, the car ran good before the studder, i have no codes.

im thinking its the CPS, thoughts?

 

That sort of happened to me on a long trip. Turns out my transfer pump failed. In our fuel tanks there is 2 pumps. the right one is the main pump that pumps fuel to the engine the left side pump is a small transfer pump to pump the fuel from the drivers side of the tank over the driveline hump to the passengers side. I was driving along and the car quit, no check engine lights at all and my fuel gauge said just under half. I had the car towed and as soon as it was off the tow truck it started again! so we headed out again and 10 miles later it quit again. Know what happened? When we had the car being pulled up onto the tow truck some of the fuel from the drivers side sloshed over to the passenger side while being towed. That's why it started again and then quit a little later.
I discovered this buy removing the rear seat and opening up the passenger side of the fuel tank, it was bone dry but the fuel gauge which is on the lefthand side said a bit under half. So the car basically was running out of gas when the fuel level was under half. To get home I just kept the fuel level above about 2/3.

 

Thank you.

yes, i thought that were a posible. Now i have no start, only crank. Still no codes. Orderd a cps. How did you find out which pump it was?

 

just put a pressure gauge on, you connect it at the fuel rail. you should see a cap at the top front left on the motor. if there is pressure then the pumps are working. if not then you should replace both. I think a CPS will throw a code so check your fuel pressure.

As I wrote I removed the bottom back seat and opened both sides of the fuel tank to see one side was empty and the other wasn't.

 

Thank you. I will check it out. How much psi am i looking for?

 

I can't remember for sure but I think around 50 PSI. Fuel pressure gages are cheap. Just be carefull as you will get some fuel escaping when you connect/disconnect. put a rag under where your connecting Also be very careful if you open up your fuel tank covers.

 

check here, there is some pictures and maybe both of you are having the same issue.

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ump-relay.html

 

Well. Seems like you were right. My pump gets power but is dead. Just orderd a new one. Is the fulefilter in the pump or is it in the other round slot at the right side of the gas tank?

 

I think its in the passenger side of the fuel tank, its built into the pump, when mine went I replaced both sides with genuine mercedes parts. If you change the drivers side too you need a cable adapter. Here's my order

Part Number Part Name Price Quantity Total

211-471-01-41 BRACKET $9.86 (Not Taxable) 1 $9.86 ***** I didn't need this part but you may need it

211-471-02-41 BRACKET $17.40 (Not Taxable) 1 $17.40

211-440-05-07 CABLE HARNESS $9.74 (Not Taxable) 1 $9.74

211-471-05-79 SEAL $19.72 (Not Taxable) 2 $39.44

211-470-41-94 FUEL PUMP $172.14 (Not Taxable) 1 $172.14

211-470-60-94 TANK INNER MODULE $149.34 (Not Taxable) 1 $149.34

Subtotal: $397.92

Shipping (Standard Ground Shipping (Home)): $23.89

Total: $421.81

 

I did just buy 211-470-60-94 since the electronic connector were on that one. Should i get the other one as well? How do i know which one is dead? My car allmost have a full tank. No pump noise.

 

I just changed them both, it makes way more sense too me. then I know they are both good and my wife doesn't get stuck when the other one quits. Did you put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail? the passenger side should run all the time so with the seat out you should be able to hear it I think.

As you can see it cost me $400 to change both pumps, new seals, adapter cable and bracket. These are all mercedes parts and I know they should last another 10 years.
How much did you pay for just the main pump?

 

The fuel pump is on the passenger side (LHD) and the fuel filter with integrated fuel pressure regulator is located on the driver's side. Replace the fuel filter every 60K miles and, personally, I would replace the fuel pump at the same time.

When you turn the ignition key on, the fuel pumps will energize for one second, then power off. Once rpms during cranking are noted by the ECU, the pumps will re-energize.

$400 isn't bad. It cost around $500 just for the dual fuel pumps in my E55. Last time it cost me almost $1000 just for the parts...

OP, fasten a fuel pressure gauge to the schraeder valve on the fuel rail and check for pressure. This could be a bad CPS, clogged filter, bad pump, or even a bad relay in the rear SAM (lowest relay).

Attachment courtesy of Konigstiger's previous answer to this question.

 

I beg to differ, when my car quit the fuel gauge indicated half a tank which is read from the drivers side. when I removed the seat the tank was empty on the passenger side and half full on the drivers side. I also put a fuel pressure gauge on too trouble shoot before looking in the tank and had 0 pressure. So if we think that thru the main pump in the passenger side was supplying the engine until it effectively ran out of fuel but yet the fuel level indicator still showed a half a tank. the drivers side pump is simply a transfer pump to get the fuel from the drivers side over the hump in the tank to the passenger side with the main pump.

 

the cable adapter you wrote about. Do you mean 211-440-05-07

 

Just bought the other fuel pump, i bought oem VDO pumps the left one for 110 euro and the right one for 130 euro. Going to buy seals and wire harness from Mercedes. The brackets, are they reuseable or do i really need to buy new ones?

i was just going to sell this car and i got so much other stuff to pay at the moment.

 

On the non-AMG W211 there is a single electric fuel pump on the right hand side and a filter on the left hand side. Fuel transfer from the filter side back to the fuel pump side is accomplished by a "suction pump" which is nothing more than a venturi-effect nozzle plus a return line from the filter/pressure regulator assembly. So don't get confused by using the word "pump" which most people will associate with an electrically driven pump.

Attachment shows fuel tank diagram for the E55; the only difference between the non-AMG and AMG is the latter uses dual fuel pumps because it is a hungry beast.

First, take a look at your data card and confirm your SA codes. There are different parts that can be installed depending upon if your car has codes 917 (PZEV) or 494 (non-PZEV). There is a fuel filter that can be used with either the code 917 or the code 494 but there is an another filter part number that can only be used with code 494. So long as you order by VIN, you should be good-to-go.

If you are replacing the filter with the latest version, always replace the pump with the latest version; for certain on the AMG the manufacturer changed the fuel pump connections to which the fuel filter feed lines attach. That caused some serious delay for a member based in Australia waiting for the proper parts to arrive.

Marcus Larsson, A211 440 05 07 is an adapter cable required to adapt the OEM harness to the new style connector on the fuel filter (aka "tank inner module, with fuel level sensor, left"). Photo attached shows new and old filter modules; you can see the difference between the old small white connectors and the new large black connectors.

According to the parts catalog, if you are replacing the earliest version tank inner module (fuel filter) A211-470-15-41 with the the latest part A211-470-60-94 you must also use the above-mentioned adapter cable plus A211-471-02-41 bracket. To add to the confusion, the earliest part was called "Mounting Plate, with integrated fuel level sensor and integrated fuel filter". Now it is just listed as "Tank inner module, with fuel sensor, left". Fun, fun, fun!

If replacing an older version of the fuel pump (A211-470-14-94) you must also procure A211-471-01-41 bracket. If the pump was replaced previously, the bracket should already be in place. Latest part number for the fuel pump is A211-470-41-94.

This should be as clear as London fog by now....

 

Thank you very much. In my 2005 e500 i had the pump and filter which was just before the latest, i looked in wis and ordered the newest pump and filter. Do i need the connector and bracket when i have the second to newest pump and filter? Im pretty sure i allready have the new connector shown in your pics. Going to check it out.

 

Allright, for the fuelfilter i have partnumber 2114701441 and for the pump i cant find any partnumber.

looking at the fuelfilter, it turns out i dont have any connection at all. Only the big black connector. Does this means i need the connector and bracket?

 

When replacing both pump and filter style. Can i use the new style pump/filter with the extra PZEV(?) Connection even if i did not have that connection to begin with? Or should i cancel my order and get the old style with no connection

 

I did order these, according to the sellers they should fit my e500 without the extra connection.
works or **** up?

http://www.ebay.de/itm/291251768224

http://www.ebay.de/itm/382055806471?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageNa me=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

To help others.

it were the fuel pump that have gone bad.

the parts i have linked above both worked on 2005 e500 with chassinumber w211070xxxxx.

i did not need the bracket and connection. Only new seals.

the replacement is easy. Just be carefull since its all plastic and take some pictures for reference. The hardes part for me were to feed the lines trough the tank since they are going up to the left if seen from left side of the car.

I ended up taking long plastic gloves and feeding the lines trough the hole with my whole arm in the tank.

 

I have an e320
The thing is from my side i dont have power on fuel pump
I checked the sam module at the back
Fuse is fine and relay is working
Bt still no power on fuel pump connectors
And no pressure on fuel connection test point on top of engine
Its all start with same symptoms

I end up getting 12v supply n plug it on the connection plug for pump n still no sound for pump n no fuel pressure
Any hel?!?
​​​​​​

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...mp_Testing.htm

If you are directly applying power to the pump and it does not run, it's pretty obvious the pump is bad and should be replaced.

 

Pelican parts should correct and edit their diagnostic tree.

You get a split second of 12v, if you just bump the key in position two. If you have a surge of 12v for a second or two and it goes to zero you know you're getting voltage at the pump. If the meter doesn't change or move at all, then your SAM or relay may be the culprit.
If you apply 12v to any electric motor and you're certain your supplying the correct leads/pins, and it doesn't turn/run motor is bad.




Mercedes crank, no starts are simplistic.
Start at the front of the car and move your way back.
check fuel pressure at fuel rail-all okay?
Check for power at fuel pump. All okay?
supply pump with sufficient voltage-rule out pump.
If pump runs and is getting voltage you have a experienced tech issue. Aka Ecu/ME

 

Pump is on the side where you insert fuel nozzle.


Bbbbbwelllll is correct!