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What's directly related to the rotor besides the wheel bearings?
Since I'm changing the rotors, might as well change other parts now and not disassemble the unit again in the future. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-W2...VZIzlc&vxp=mtr
I want to change all front components, just don't want to work 2 times removing the same thing again,
any other thing I can change related to removing the brake disc rotor besides the wheel bearings?
or anything missing from this list?
I can appreciate your concern, however have you ever thought of testing the play before jumping in to a major job without the special tools. Remember this is not the 70's when you could pry off the cover, undo the cotter pin and nut and with your finger pull the bearing out.
I can appreciate your concern, however have you ever thought of testing the play before jumping in to a major job without the special tools. Remember this is not the 70's when you could pry off the cover, undo the cotter pin and nut and with your finger pull the bearing out.
I have to test it, however on highway speeds 40 mph and more the car is shaking a lot, did balance the wheels and it’s the same. So I’m planning on changing everything I posted on the list.
what special tools do I need besides a torque wrench?
i think I can put the race in by tapping in different points so it’s flush, since I don’t have have tool on the YouTube video.
As maintamce and since it’s shaking a lot in the front. Want to fix everything so it runs as new a year in the future at least.
Were your tires/ wheels checked for excessive road force when they were balanced? Excessive road force in the tire/ wheel assemblies will cause shaking.
Were your tires/ wheels checked for excessive road force when they were balanced? Excessive road force in the tire/ wheel assemblies will cause shaking.
I had strange shaking on front of my wagon, that synchronized with vehicle speed.
Could swear it is bad tire, but long testing show the "filled" bushing on control arm wear out.
$30 part.
From what I see you plan to spend couple of grands for preemptive repairs, when 1 part might need replacement.
When newer models do have more and more weak parts, it is long-lasting Mercedes afterall, so replacing number of parts in 1/4 of their usable life will not fit my idea of economical drive.
My father just sold his 30 years old MB with almost 300,000 miles on it.
To my knowledge most, if not whole front were original. I only had to replace brake flex lines over the years.
I had strange shaking on front of my wagon, that synchronized with vehicle speed.
Could swear it is bad tire, but long testing show the "filled" bushing on control arm wear out.
$30 part.
From what I see you plan to spend couple of grands for preemptive repairs, when 1 part might need replacement.
When newer models do have more and more weak parts, it is long-lasting Mercedes afterall, so replacing number of parts in 1/4 of their usable life will not fit my idea of economical drive.
My father just sold his 30 years old MB with almost 300,000 miles on it.
To my knowledge most, if not whole front were original. I only had to replace brake flex lines over the years.
I understand and you are right, but I raised the car with various shops and check the front and most parts are done, and it’s best to change both sides. Seems like it had bad bad owners before. The only one I haven’t checked is the wheel bearings and wanted to know what other things can be done by removing the disc rotor, that's the one question no one has answered.
Inspect, inspect, inspect.
Replacing good parts just becouse you don't know better makes no sense.
Wheel bearings on MB last million miles and usually need a press to replace. Not something that qualifies for preemptive replacement.
10-27-2017, 11:45 AM
