I have a 2005 E320 with a starting issue I can't figure out. The car has an intermittent no crank when the key is turned. After multiple key turns the starter will make a clunk sound like it it partially engaged, then the next key turn it will start. Other times it will start 10 times in a row with no problem. Thinking I had a starter/solenoid issue I replaced the starter but had the same issue. I replaced with another starter and had the same issue. I replaced the starter relay and still no change. I used my icarsoft MB2 scanner and no error codes in the EIS, SAM units or gateway. I cleaned the engine to chassis ground as well as all ground locations under the hood and in the trunk. I checked the battery feed to starter connections in the passenger footwell as well as the main grounds. I got a wiring diagram and it shows the ground for the EIS module is behind the instrument cluster so I removed the cluster and did not see a ground location. Have checked connections to the fuel pump, no issues. I have contacted a couple companies that rebuild the EIS and they are telling me that if the key can turn then the EIS is good and I that have an electrical problem elsewhere, I was thinking there should be some type of starter switch in the EIS and maybe that is going bad.....

 

even though there aren't any codes, could still be a bad key or eis.

i would ohm the purple starter wire out to rule a possible wiring issue as the culprit. if that wire is good i would jump the starter and measure amps during cranking.

 

It's been a while but did you ever figure this out? I have what sounds like the same problem. I think it's the eis not grounding the starter relay coil although it's intermittent just like you describe. There's a small brown/tan wire from the SAM that grounds the relay and I'm trying to trace down to exactly where it goes (I suspect the EIS) and then I wanted to make sure if it's the EIS itself at fault or the ground after the EIS. I saw on the Pelican parts forum that you found the ground and fixed it. Awesome. Did it stay fixed?

 

I had exactly this issue on the 05 E320 CDI, an intermittent no crank no start. With key in position 2, if glow plug light comes on then the car will start. If the glow plug light does not come on then the car will not start. Sometimes it took 2 or 3 key cycles to start the car. Its been happening for about 6 months now. A few weeks ago it took about 20 key cycles to start.
Took it to the dealer back in December and they diagnosed that I needed a new ECU, they also replaced the starter relay to ensure it wasn't the relay that was faulty.
Did some homework and there are many companies that can refurb your ECU for a heck of lot less than what the dealer wants. I took out my ECU and sent it away for repair just this week.
I am awaiting a call to go pick it up as we speak.
Will let you know what the result is when I get it back, a few days hopefully.

 

Tbeiler, Thanks for getting back to me. On mine, after I poked around suspecting my front SAM, I figured out eventually it had to do with the ground for the starter relay coil, which I guess goes through the ECM (and not the EIS?). I was following another guy that had this same problem. He sent his ECM out to one of the repair places and they didn't pick up on anything wrong with his. That could be because of the intermittent nature of this damn, infuriating problem. Charged him 90 bucks for nothing. He ended up buying a replacement from MBZ and having his indy program it for him, which took care of it. Cost him about half of what I paid for my CDI with 159k miles on it. Crazy.---------I look forward to what those guys get back to you with. .

 

So got my ECU back, they repaired a number of items on the circuit board, but don't know the detail of what was repaired.
I installed it, started no issue first time, then took it out for a long drive, parked the car, left it off for a few minutes, and right back to the same issue,
key in position 2, glow plug light did not come on, car wouldn't start. Gave the key another cycle and then everything worked fine again.
Once home, I tried starting the car 4 times after shutting down and started no problem each time.
Either the dealer was wrong in their diagnosis that I needed a new ECU or ECU repair missed something.
Perplexed.

Doug, You say you checked the ground for the starter relay coil and checked other grounds, can you pinpoint where all these grounds are,
I should go over the same things to see if my issue is also ground related.

 

Well I wish I could say I was surprised that it came back without the problem found and fixed. That is disappointing. You would think those guys would be specific about what they find, but I guess they don't feel the need. I've gone back and forth with this. Right now the car is doing fine. Makes me suspect relay problems because I've had the car quit cranking (and not intermittent) after I was pretty sure I'd ruled out the starter relay, only to find it needed a relay. It was reliable for a month or two after that, only to find it start doing it again. I put another one of the half dozen or so wrecking yard relays I've collected up and it has been doing ok again (for now). One thing I found out that's interesting is Mercedes apparently did some sort of redesign on the relay. The new PN is now 002 542 9219. Old PN was 002 542 1119. I have a new one on order. It's only around 22 bucks from the dealer. FCP euro has them for about 15 bucks. Makes me wonder what the redesign was all about. Anyway, about the grounds, I've not done much with that yet. I don't have a WIS for the car and to be honest I'm not completely sure where the coil ground wire goes to be switched. I'm assuming that happens in the ECM. Then of course the ECM needs a ground, but since everything else seems fine when it's running I'm skeptical the ECM need a better ground but who knows? It's black magic. There are grounding points under the passenger side carpet (which I checked), and also under the driver door sill (which I haven't checked yet). If I come up with anything that might be of help when I get the new relay, I'll let you know, (but of course, at present, the car isn't doing it). Best of luck.

 

One more thing I thought I found interesting, the glow plug light issue when it's not cranking. Makes me wonder about the glow plug module or CAN bus which can do strange things. There is a bus (connection block) under the driver door sill that might be worth looking at. Check it for any funky looking terminals if you go in there. I think I recall another under the passenger carpet. .

 

You should just get a copy of the WIS, at $8.50 or less on eBay, the toughest part is figuring it out.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/123679649919

 

I see the above WIS works on Virtual Machine. That sucks. I'm working on getting that program installed into my StarC4, because properly installed it automatically interfaces with DAS/Xentry which should make it very easy. Like I said, working on it.

 

So how does this work? A data download with a certain program?
Thanks,

 

You download all the files and then put it together. There are instructions on how to do it. It then creates a virtual machine when you run it. Not very easy to use, but if you poke around with it long enough, you might figure it out. There's a few youtube videos on it out there too.

 

Resurrecting this thread. Was the intermittent starting issue ever resolved? If so, what was the resolution? I'm experiencing the same issue and have gone through the normal troubleshooting. I wasn't aware of the glow plug light and will have to take note if that occurs the next time it doesn't start. I was on another site and it was indicated that the EIS module ground is in the passenger interior footwell and once it was cleaned, the issue went away. I'm going to attempt that next.

 

A 2nd key-fob might help in troubleshooting intermittent crank/start condition. If one works flawlessly but other doesn't, it's likely to be as simple as that however if both key fobs intermittently fail in same fashion, I would begin to suspect EIS as possible culprit if GP relay, fuel pump relay & starter relay all check out as otherwise functioning properly. DAS can reveal what's occurring in EIS control unit 'Actual Values' when key fob is moved through position 1, 2, & 3 while attempting to crank/start. It will monitor & display each circuit's status required to activate in proper sequence during start-up process. In my situation while troubleshooting condition, DAS revealed 'drive authorization' value in EIS control unit would briefly intermittently toggle between 'Authorized' to 'Not authorized' in position 3 during crank cycles & abort start-up process. Sometimes, crank/start would abort immediately, other times it would briefly crank then suddenly stop, still other times it would crank, start up & run as expected. Unfortunately for me, I bought vehicle used & it only came with one key-fob so w/o a 2nd key-fob to try, I wrongly concluded EIS must actually be culprit & allowed dealership SA to talk me into replacing it. After reading several threads here, I decided it would be prudent to order 2nd key fob in case condition continued after expensive EIS replacement. Sure enough, with new EIS & old key-fob, intermittent crank failures continued but lo & behold, 2nd key fob worked flawlessly EVERY time. Cost to replace EIS will run in the thousands vs. key fob replacement between $400-600. It can be very frustrating trying to diagnose & troubleshoot this issue since it's intermittent & 1/2 the time car will start & run like there's no issue. SA originally was pushing for replacement of GP relay & all glow plugs which would have been very expensive & as it turned out, completely unnecessary. I declined that service because I had seen what DAS was doing before I took it in to be diagnosed & felt pretty confident that GP relay circuit was being interrupted by 'drive authorization' component of EIS. My only regret is that I didn't go 2nd key-fob route in 1st place but I retell this story whenever I encounter one of these 'intermittent crank/start failure' threads so others won't let SA throw expensive/unnecessary repairs at you w/o a definitive diagnosis. You are your best & ONLY advocate when it comes to dealing with stealerships.

 

Thanks for that insight! I have a 2nd key fob which I'll use the next time it happens. One other thing that I've noticed is that it seems to act up when it's hot and humid out. Today, it's starting flawlessly and it's mid 70s with low humidity.

 

Hi guys, I'm the other person who has the intermittent no crank no start issue. Thought maybe to put all details here in this thread, (not hijacking the thread) so perhaps we can all come to a good resolution and get this problem over with.
I did get the WIS from ebay for the 9 bucks, it works good, I have been going through the WIS the last few weeks. Def worth the 9 bucks.
My ECU was sent out a few times now, only because when I got it back previously, the same intermittent no crank no start condition persisted. The last time I got it back seemed OK at first few cranks, then right back to same condition again.
Did go over the grounds in the passenger footwell as well, and cleaned them up along with the 5 fuses there. Haven't done the one in the drivers side footwell, but will look into it.
As a note from above both my keys give the same condition, so ruling out the keys as a concern.
This leaves only the EIS, the glow plug module and the ground in the drivers footwell.
Have been studying the WIS on how to get the EIS module out. Did see some companies stateside that will refurb the EIS module, tried a Canadian company, but they just got back to me saying they can't do my specific model year, only 2008 and newer.
But before I pull the unit out, will check the drivers sill for the ground there. Anyone know where exactly this is?
Don't have any CEL but do have speedometer message saying circuit 15 is off. Is this pointing to EIS module? or the glow plug module?
I only have an iCarsoft MB2 reader.

 

Having the same no crank issue with a 2005 e320 diesel. This is my father-in-law's car and it has been to an Indy as well as two Merc dealers. Latest Merc dealer is saying that the car needs a new EIS and they can no longer get the part. They are saying that we should contact Bosch in Germany to see if they can help.

Before we go that route, I will try the things mentioned in this thread (checking grounds, try second key fob if he has one, etc.). Just wondering if someone has found a smoking gun and if the EIS does need to be repaired/replaced is there a good source for the repair or a replacement part?

 

Well just search for EIS repair. You don't mention the country you're in but there are some out there that will rebuild them for you. You do have to wait while it gets rebuilt though.

 

Ressurecting this thread again as Im exeriencing the exact same symptoms. Mercedes ML320 CDI 2006 model
- Car starts fine as long as the glow light comes on when turning the key to position2
- if the glow light does not come on then nothing happens when you try to crank at key position 3
- to get it to start, you have to keep turning the car on and off to eventually get it to work, this could be anything from 2 to 10 times

 

2005 E320 CDI

Hi, looks like many of us have this intermittent no crank no start issue.

When I first took the car to the Benz dealer, they diagnosed that I needed a new ECU and also an updated EGR valve.
Wasn't thrilled to hear the cost, (over 4500 Cdn) so figured I would send it out for repair myself.

Initially I sent my ECU to a Canadian company (as I live in Canada and didn't want the cross border shipping / duty charges added),.
They were happy to tell me that they could help, and take my money, but in the end, nothing they did with the circuit board helped.
My no crank / no start issue persisted.

Then I contacted a company in FLA, sent the ECU to them along with the EIS unit and both keys.
After a few moths, I emailed these guys and called to get an update, without response.
I thought I had been hosed, and was ready to put a stop payment on my MC.
Sure enough, they finally email me back and say that the ECU has shipped, and I should expect it shortly. They also gave me a tracking number.
I received my hardware within the week, and as soon as I installed the ECU, glow plug light comes on and now the car starts 100% of the time.
In the end, I spent about half of what the dealer was going to charge.

In my case it was the ECU that caused my no crank / no start.
(Not to say that it can't be a faulty EIS or a number of other causes)

Might be worth taking it to the dealer to get a diagnosis and take it from there.

 

I wrestled with this problem for a year. Problem in my case turned out to be the switches inside the EIS.

I hope this saves you time and money. Fix is for SLK R171 and W211 which share the same EIS.

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post8790281