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The Complete w211/w219 Research/DIY Inner and Outer Tie Rod Thread
Hi All,
My inner and outer tie rods need to be changed and I plan to DIY. I'm starting this thread to solicit feedback, get ideas, and document the procedure for other users. Feel free to comment and chime in anytime.
1. Background.
The locking nut on my inner tie rod is completely frozen. I used a breaking bar and heat and cannot get off. My mechanic could not get it off either. While I believe it eventually would come off with the proper torch, I have just decided to replace the entire assembly. Note when this nut is seized, an alignment cannot be performed. Here are some pics of the frozen nut and other components (see pink arrows point to adjusting nut that is seized; the red arrow is the outer tie rod and the blue is the inner) :
The seized locking nut, a common problem.
2. Method.
To get a basic understanding of the DIY, I first referred to the very helpful w211 Pelican Parts tutorial:
I also found the "Chris Fix" DIY very useful because it gave a nice suggestion of how to keep track the position of your outer tie rod on your inner tie rod as not to throw off your alignment. He suggested removing the outer tie rod and counting number of turns: Chris Fix (w/tip on outer tie rod)
Also, Mercedes Source has a nice write up for the w210 that include torque specs (self locking nut outer tie rod, 60nm, and inner tie rod, 110nm) and the outer tie rod tool size (36mm) that needed : Torque Specs
3. Tools and Parts.
I plan to purchase Lemfoerder Inner Tie Rods, Outer Tie Rods, and Dust Boots from FCP Eurp. I chose Lemfoerder because it is my understanding that this is a OEM supplier: FCP Euro Lemfoeder Tie Rod Kit
In order to remove the ball joint from the Outer Tie Rod, I will use an absolutely fantastic tool from Harbor Freight. This tool save time and works wonders. Don't even try those pitch fork things or hammering the ball joint. The Harbor Freight tool will save you hours: Must Have Tool To Separate Ball Joint
In order to remove the inner tie rod, I purchased the a tool from Amazon. There was a tool available for loan at the local Advance Auto Store, but I didn't want the hassle:
13mm socket for Ball Joint Self Locking Nut (I think)
Breaker Bar
Torque Wrench
Allen Key for Ball Joint
Anti-Seize for adjusting nut
4. DIY
The DIY for this turned out to be much more straightforward than I expected, so I won't go through this step by step.
Just about everything you will need to know is in the Pelican Parts tutorial or Chris Fix video.
There is one thing that I'd like to mention.
The removal of the inner tie rod is not that hard, but the 2 separate special tools I used did not work.
I bought the tool from amazon, as shown above, which seemed like it should works due to the number of attachments.
But the tube was way too long and would not fit.
I also borrowed another tool from Advanced Auto, which fit but the attachments would not get a bite on the inner tie rod.
In the end, the caveman method worked best.
I simply used some big *** pliers and attached a cheater bar.
With this tool I got a good bite and fairly easily removed/loosened the inner tie rod.
My only fear with this method was that I could not used a torque wrench to torque to spec.
So I just tightened as much as I could without the feeling of the threads stripping.
I hate not tightening to spec but it is what it is.
I hope this thread has been helpful.
Please feel free to PM if you have questions.
This job is a lot of work but also very doable.
Save yourself a small fortune and DIY!!
Last edited by LexBrett2; Sep 6, 2018 at 10:05 AM.
As far as getting the nut off I'd say get an oxy acetylene torch or use a nut breaker tool since you are replacing the assembly. Or a combination of both. Even a dremel with a cut off wheel could split it just enough to have it loosen.
Last edited by Onyxthecat; Aug 6, 2018 at 12:10 PM.
I cannot believe that the stupid nut won’t come off for you. I would get a gun and shoot it after you are all done .
I believe it would come off eventually but with the same time I could change the entire assembly. Even if I did get it off, the tie rod is corroded and spinning the nut to adjust the toe may be a problem.. But I really may bash in the old tie rod when I am all done with the project
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