Strange Airmatic problem
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Strange Airmatic problem
Hello forum!
I have been searching on several forums including this, but have not found any answer for this problem:
After riding my car it seems to be a bit higher in the front than it was when I started the ride. When i lock my car, or when I unlock it (there seems to be no system of this), the car let out some pressure and the car lower a bit. The lowering prosess take about 20 seconds. I do have it on video, but I`m not allowed to post mp4-files here. Its difficult to tell if the pressure leaks out from the left fron strut or the compressor. I have changed all 4 struts before, and the front dosent lower as much as it did when the strut was broken, it goes back to the level of Sport2 mode. I took the car to the workshop, but there was no error in Star Diagnose System. But, they can see that the compressor rise the car more often than normal. They updated the system, but still the same.
My guess is a faulty hight-sensor or a faulty nozzle, but I find it strange that there are no error-messages.
Suggestions anyone?
I have been searching on several forums including this, but have not found any answer for this problem:
After riding my car it seems to be a bit higher in the front than it was when I started the ride. When i lock my car, or when I unlock it (there seems to be no system of this), the car let out some pressure and the car lower a bit. The lowering prosess take about 20 seconds. I do have it on video, but I`m not allowed to post mp4-files here. Its difficult to tell if the pressure leaks out from the left fron strut or the compressor. I have changed all 4 struts before, and the front dosent lower as much as it did when the strut was broken, it goes back to the level of Sport2 mode. I took the car to the workshop, but there was no error in Star Diagnose System. But, they can see that the compressor rise the car more often than normal. They updated the system, but still the same.
My guess is a faulty hight-sensor or a faulty nozzle, but I find it strange that there are no error-messages.
Suggestions anyone?
#2
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Look into calibrating the air suspension. I've posted on the process several times. Once prepped, takes < one hour to calibrate using STAR.
To check, with the car parked on *an absolutely level* surface (explained in other posts), use an inclinometer (can be a cell phone app). Front control arms (use the nubs) should be +3.1 to +4.1 degrees (inboard higher than outboard). Rear axles should be -0.9 to -1.5 degrees (inboard lower than outboard).
To check, with the car parked on *an absolutely level* surface (explained in other posts), use an inclinometer (can be a cell phone app). Front control arms (use the nubs) should be +3.1 to +4.1 degrees (inboard higher than outboard). Rear axles should be -0.9 to -1.5 degrees (inboard lower than outboard).
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
thx for a good advice - will ask my workshop to do this.
I guess they know about the procedure. Is it the same degrees on a E320cdi as on a E55AMG?
And besides - is this a common problem? Haven`t found a similar post.
I guess they know about the procedure. Is it the same degrees on a E320cdi as on a E55AMG?
And besides - is this a common problem? Haven`t found a similar post.
Last edited by NorsemanE320; 05-03-2019 at 03:47 PM.
#4
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Look under air suspension or control units, it will be ENR control unit, "Initial startup with manual settings input for new control unit/ Level Calibration". The system will walk your through the process; just be sure to take note of the control arm and axle angles on a piece of paper so you can enter those values manually at the last step of calibration. The system calls for a Romess automated inclinometer that communicates with the system but a cell phone app works fine. Just be sure the floor is absolutely level using floor tiles under the tires where needed. I would place identical sockets at tire locations, place a 6' piece of square tube aluminum on the sockets, set inclinometer on top of the square tubing, then add floor ties under one side or the other until floor is level. Pull the car up, raise/lower a couple of times, then measure the suspension angles. If not within spec, calibrate using STAR.
Last edited by bbirdwell; 05-03-2019 at 04:49 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by bbirdwell:
CLKx430 (05-30-2019),
NorsemanE320 (05-03-2019)
#5
Senior Member
You also need to remember that your car will raise a bit when you get out of it as you are removing quite a bit of weight from the drivers seat.
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CLKx430 (05-30-2019)
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Look into calibrating the air suspension. I've posted on the process several times. Once prepped, takes < one hour to calibrate using STAR.
To check, with the car parked on *an absolutely level* surface (explained in other posts), use an inclinometer (can be a cell phone app). Front control arms (use the nubs) should be +3.1 to +4.1 degrees (inboard higher than outboard). Rear axles should be -0.9 to -1.5 degrees (inboard lower than outboard).
To check, with the car parked on *an absolutely level* surface (explained in other posts), use an inclinometer (can be a cell phone app). Front control arms (use the nubs) should be +3.1 to +4.1 degrees (inboard higher than outboard). Rear axles should be -0.9 to -1.5 degrees (inboard lower than outboard).
The following users liked this post:
NorsemanE320 (05-23-2019)
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#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Still struggeling with this issue. The latest is, according to the workshop, that it's due to a faulty compressor. A new compressor and labor will charge me for over $1000. I might do this, but will i run any risk if i run my car until the compressor is completely broken?
#9
Senior Member
Still struggeling with this issue. The latest is, according to the workshop, that it's due to a faulty compressor. A new compressor and labor will charge me for over $1000. I might do this, but will i run any risk if i run my car until the compressor is completely broken?
As others point out, it's a matter of calibration.
Your workshop is obviously not up to the job.
The air release, when you lock and unlock, is normal, or if you have keyless go, and have the key in your pocket, the compressor will start as you open the drivers door, to pump up the system pressure. If the car has sunk, the electronics will raise it to normal level, and the compressor, if okay, will not run for more than 20 sec. If it runs longer than that, it is leaking and will fail at a point. Compressors are know to only last 50.000 miles, and are to be replaced accordingly. The compressor is located inside the front left fender, and easy to access. I bought my last one on Alibaba, and it has so far outperformed any previous MB compressor, and at 1/3 of the price.
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Oldgold (09-11-2019)
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thx for your reply. My compressor is from december 2003 and havent been replaced yet. But it still work fine, raising my car from sport 2 to maximum hight in 20-30 seconds. Strangely enough the problem seems to be erased after the work shop replaced å hose in/close to the compressor. Wonder how long it takes before it's back...
#11
Member
has to be related to inaccurate reading from level sensor. Compressor would not cause your issues, they either work or they don't.
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NorsemanE320 (09-17-2019)