Take off the Bumper?




You can achieve the same with the car on solid ground! It's easy to do, and save money in the long run! Once you attempt to do it, next you'll be doing your own! I Rails under the wheel wells are the toughest only because the bumper hooks with the rails like a "jigsaw" if you would.
I believe it's like 12 or 14 screws in total, but it doable! Now if I could only swap out my front brakes and rotors! Eh!!! Lol
R
2MERKS
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I performed this bumper removal and reinstallation today. The reason was that I needed to replace the ballast on the right headlight because it was broken. It took the morning to complete - around 4 hours including the time it took to replace the ballast and HID lamp and test. This was the first time I did this. The process wasn't difficult to do and I certainly saved a good deal of money over taking it to a dealership or indy.
One thing I did which I haven't seen done on any of the available Youtube videos was to record the height of the headlight so that I could reset the exact height upon reinstallation. This would maintain the alignment of the headlight. I found a drill bit whose diameter was exactly the spacing between the headlight mount and the frame before loosening the mounting screw. I set the headlight on the drill bit, using it as a spacer when reinstalling then tightened the mount screw to fix the headlight height.
Another tip I can offer. I found by experimentation that the order in which you should re-assemble the fasteners when re-installing the bumper cover is as follows:
1. offer the cover up to the right side fender and fasten both together with the pinch clamp. Use the Torx screw to secure the clamp.
2. offer the cover up to the left side fender and fasten together. Also secure with the Torx screw.
3. fasten the bumper to the front of the car with the (2) 10mm bolts and (2) 8mm bolts
4. fasten the bumper on the underside with (2) 10mm bolts
5. replace the (2) plastic pop rivets on the right side wheel well cover. Secure the wheel well cover with the 10mm plastic nut.
6. replace the (2) plastic pop rivets and 10mm nut on the left side wheel well cover.
7. fit the scrape protector plate to the bottom of the car using the (8) threaded fasteners into the capture nuts
I recommend this sequence because the right side fender-to-cover seam is very difficult to fasten because of the washer hose. This sequence offers the most flexibility to the installer to position the bumper cover just right so that the pinch clamp just slips on without any trouble. Not fitting the 8mm and 10mm bolts next gives the greatest flexibility to position the left side fender-to-cover seam making that installation painless.
Last edited by rbm; Jul 25, 2019 at 02:51 PM. Reason: Added another tip




If you plan on working on the car you should already have jackstands/jack at a bare minimum. If not then you gotta pay the indy/dealer. Working on these cars is not as bad as what people think. It's rather straight forward.
-Nigel




R,
2MERKS




If you really want to dive deep getting STAR/DAS/Xentry is on the list as well. With all the help on the forum I retro fitted a few things to the car that were never an option. Rear overhead ambient console light, power trunk,, rear back up camera, xenons, remote start, unlocked several things in the cluster...etc. It's actually fun. With each mod it feels like I gained a feature that MB would have charged an arm and a leg for, lol. Plus it's fun taking the car apart. I wish I could find OEM illuminated door sills... but parts and things like that are getting much rarer to find.
-Nigel




Now I have to go back and review it again. That's something I'll have to add to my list for the fall. Outstanding.
R,
2MERKS



