2004 E500 Battery Protection Issues
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2004 E500
2004 E500 Battery Protection Issues
I keep getting the Red Batter Warning Light, and Battery protection: Convenience functions temporary unavailable” warning which means the AC stops blowing cold air (in Florida). It is an intermittent issue that comes and goes. I have NEVER had an issue cranking the car right up, but it is a flip of the coin whether the red light is on.
Both batteries have been replaced. Alternator checked out as good at the shop. After reading through the forums it seems like the next steps should be:
1. Auxiliary Battery Relay
2. Voltage Regulator
3. Alternator
4. Voodoo Witch Doctor
Does this sound about right?
Both batteries have been replaced. Alternator checked out as good at the shop. After reading through the forums it seems like the next steps should be:
1. Auxiliary Battery Relay
2. Voltage Regulator
3. Alternator
4. Voodoo Witch Doctor
Does this sound about right?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2019
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2004 E500
Just a follow up if anyone is reading this. Despite the fact that both batteries are brand new, and the alternator "checked out"
The Resting Voltage is 11.7 which is lower than it is supposed to be.
So is the Auxiliary Battery Relay or Voltage Regulator the next step? Is there a way to test to see which direction to go?
The Resting Voltage is 11.7 which is lower than it is supposed to be.
So is the Auxiliary Battery Relay or Voltage Regulator the next step? Is there a way to test to see which direction to go?
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 563
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From: The Villages, Florida
2006 E320 CDI
If both batteries are new, resting voltage should be at least 13 volts. You say that the alternator checked out ok. Who tested it and how did they test it? If you can pull up the voltage on the dash, it should be a steady 14.1 volts, give or take +- .2 volts with the engine running. The attached document explains how the dual battery system works. Below also are the instructions on how to pull up the voltage on your dash. It should work for your year vehicle.
Good luck,
Mike T.
1. Insert key into ignition, switch to position “1“.
2. Press buttons or repeatedly until the mileage is displayed within the Multifunction display.
3. Press cluster illumination button (1) 3 times in short succession. The battery voltage will be displayed
Good luck,
Mike T.
1. Insert key into ignition, switch to position “1“.
2. Press buttons or repeatedly until the mileage is displayed within the Multifunction display.
3. Press cluster illumination button (1) 3 times in short succession. The battery voltage will be displayed
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2019
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2004 E500
If both batteries are new, resting voltage should be at least 13 volts. You say that the alternator checked out ok. Who tested it and how did they test it? If you can pull up the voltage on the dash, it should be a steady 14.1 volts, give or take +- .2 volts with the engine running. The attached document explains how the dual battery system works. Below also are the instructions on how to pull up the voltage on your dash. It should work for your year vehicle.
Good luck,
Mike T.
Good luck,
Mike T.
So that (in my mind) means the Alternator is charging). Any other tests to help narrow down the next part replacement?
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 563
Likes: 31
From: The Villages, Florida
2006 E320 CDI
I would place my bets on the voltage regulator (VR) going bad. The VR brushes usually last between 150k and 200k. If you decide to replace the VR, make sure you purchase a Bosch VR. Other brands do not function with our vehicles. As for the resting voltage now up to 12.1 volts, I would either take it on a long ride (making sure the voltage is at least 14 volts), or charge both batteries.
Mike T.
Mike T.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 7
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2004 E500
I would place my bets on the voltage regulator (VR) going bad. The VR brushes usually last between 150k and 200k. If you decide to replace the VR, make sure you purchase a Bosch VR. Other brands do not function with our vehicles. As for the resting voltage now up to 12.1 volts, I would either take it on a long ride (making sure the voltage is at least 14 volts), or charge both batteries.
Mike T.
Mike T.
Is it PART NUMBER 003 154 65 06?
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 563
Likes: 31
From: The Villages, Florida
2006 E320 CDI
It looks like the correct one. I did a search from your part number and came up with the following:
https://www.google.com/search?client...+003+154+65+06
Just do not buy one that states "for a Bosch regulator", you want a genuine Bosch regulator.
Mike T.
https://www.google.com/search?client...+003+154+65+06
Just do not buy one that states "for a Bosch regulator", you want a genuine Bosch regulator.
Mike T.
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2012 Audi Q7
I just went through a similar scenario we replaced the Battery Control Module and problem was solved there is a reset procedure to see if it is the problem and that is done by disconnectly the BCM for 5 min and then plugging it back and then turn on ignition to the on position then turn on the rear defrost, the fan all the way up and then the hazard switch. Leave this on for two min. and then it should be good.
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2004 Mercedes Benz E500 V8 base model rear wheel drive
Battery protection visit Workshop and battery light high voltage bounces up and down
I have sort of narrowed it down so far auxiliary battery and trunk battery are new but still getting visit Workshop light and I notice my voltage well read 14.1 then drop down drops below what it should be at stuff gose crazy, I think it's my voltage regulator module in the trunk or underneath the auxiliary module underneath the hood which one should I change first and that would be causing my AC to go off and stop blowing Max come back on it might make my other functions that crazy that's what I'm thinking I have checked my computer's underneath the hood the same underneath the hood the same in the rear the electrical boards I Mall and the electrical board on the driver side I'm getting sound connection from the splitter underneath the passenger side floor and the splitter in the trunk so none of them fuses are blown in them as I was maybe thinking also and I replace my alternator with a new one , cars from California very clean not a speck of rust on it or water damage in trunk or underneath the hood everything is extremely clean help me out Fella's thank you
Last edited by Simonson Josh; Aug 5, 2019 at 01:28 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 563
Likes: 31
From: The Villages, Florida
2006 E320 CDI
I have sort of narrowed it down so far auxiliary battery and trunk battery but still getting visit Workshop light and I notice my voltage well read 14.1 then drop down so are you there it's my voltage regulator in the trunk or underneath the hood which one should I change first that would be causing my AC to go off and stop blowing come back on it might make my other functions that crazy thank you and I replace my alternator with a new one that cost me almost 300
Mike T.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 563
Likes: 31
From: The Villages, Florida
2006 E320 CDI
You are saying that you replaced the alternator with a oe "type" alternator. What does that mean?????? If you did not install a Mercedes or a Bosch alternator you will have issues. As for the auxiliary battery relay, there is no such thing. Are you referring to the Battery Control Module (BCM)? If so, there is only one and that is located next to the main battery in the trunk. I do not think that is your problem.
First thing I would do is make sure all the battery cables are clean and tight. A loose cable will cause all sort of issues.
Good luck!
Mike T.
First thing I would do is make sure all the battery cables are clean and tight. A loose cable will cause all sort of issues.
Good luck!
Mike T.
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2004 Mercedes Benz E500 V8 base model rear wheel drive
Mike t
Yup the oe type it ask for tue boch is the one I went with so ypur saying its most likely my voltage regulator in the trunk , not the auxiliary battery relay underneath the hood underneath the windshield wiper behind the plastic Shield Mountain up against the firewall on the outside of the vehicle not far from the auxiliary battery thank you
Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 122
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From: Tampa, FL
2005 CLK500
Good morning, I checked all fuses, they are fine. I didn't attempt to remove the components from the Sam box, for I don't know how, Therefore I blew the box it out with a blower. I further inspect for water with a flashlight. I didn't see nor felt water, while inspecting or while using the blower. I am sure I inadvently got the box or another electrical component wet, for it's been 6dys now that this vehicle would start. Any other suggestions,. Please ?
respectfully and valued
arjuna
respectfully and valued
arjuna
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E500 Base
Battery Convenience Functions
Try to replace BCM in the trunk, its the one controlling those functions, i have same issue, 03 mercedes, changed VCM, brand new fcpeuro, and recently changed bcm (used), So i think the bcm from junk yard isnt good either.
Thread Starter
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2004 E500
Quick update to this thread. I drove it for Jacksonville FL to Madison Wisconsin (moved) without any issue. The warning lights stopped coming on.
Once I got to Madison the car sat for several days. I went to start it up to run an errand at it was stone dead. As in no electronics, no nothing....couldn't even jump start it.
The trunk battery was an AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H8, 900 CCAand it was purchased on July 27.
I took it into Advanced to get it tested/charged and it came back with a bad cell. Still under warranty and they replaced it.
I have been traveling a lot and my car has been sitting more than it should (in Madison Winter). I drove it several times off and on in the past few weeks, and it started up in the cold without any issue. Two days ago I went to start it and it was STONE DEAD again. I am going to take it back to Advanced and get them to check it...wondering if they tell me it is another bad cell.
What are the odds this is just two bad batteries?
Once I got to Madison the car sat for several days. I went to start it up to run an errand at it was stone dead. As in no electronics, no nothing....couldn't even jump start it.
The trunk battery was an AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H8, 900 CCAand it was purchased on July 27.
I took it into Advanced to get it tested/charged and it came back with a bad cell. Still under warranty and they replaced it.
I have been traveling a lot and my car has been sitting more than it should (in Madison Winter). I drove it several times off and on in the past few weeks, and it started up in the cold without any issue. Two days ago I went to start it and it was STONE DEAD again. I am going to take it back to Advanced and get them to check it...wondering if they tell me it is another bad cell.
What are the odds this is just two bad batteries?
