Transmission Mounting Bracket/Cross Member Removal Question
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Transmission Mounting Bracket/Cross Member Removal Question
Regarding this photo from a PelicanParts W211 Transmission mount DIY (been a member there for over 20 years but this is my first post at MBWorld):
1.) Is removing the two nuts (green arrows) necessary to drop the mounting bracket? They don't seem to be attached to the bracket.
2.) What does the bolt at the red arrow do -- or what is it attached to? Mine is rusted to its backing nut and both spin freely, in unison. I can wiggle the bracket side to side a bit but it will not come off. I could feel the top of it when I maneuvered my fingers up the and turned from below; but it seems the same length as those other 6 that were successfully removed.
This was a show stopper for me and what should have been a simple repair was screwed up by... a screw.
I am doing this replacement due to some some strong vibrations in Drive and Reverse, with foot on brake. Car is dead quiet in Neutral but curiously vibrates a little in Park. In park, if I put my hand on the engine cover, I can can also really feel strong vibrations.
These vibrations were present for some time but became stronger after having my axles replaced (with GKN) last Friday so I am guessing transmission movement during the repair impacted the trans mount.
**I replaced the engine mounts today with new Lemfoerders, so they are not the cause.***
(Engine mounts are shockingly easy to do on this car; took me longer to remove/reattach the belly pans than it did to swap out the mounts, so why are shops quoting 6+ hours and $1200+ for this job? Hmm.....)
1.) Is removing the two nuts (green arrows) necessary to drop the mounting bracket? They don't seem to be attached to the bracket.
2.) What does the bolt at the red arrow do -- or what is it attached to? Mine is rusted to its backing nut and both spin freely, in unison. I can wiggle the bracket side to side a bit but it will not come off. I could feel the top of it when I maneuvered my fingers up the and turned from below; but it seems the same length as those other 6 that were successfully removed.
This was a show stopper for me and what should have been a simple repair was screwed up by... a screw.
I am doing this replacement due to some some strong vibrations in Drive and Reverse, with foot on brake. Car is dead quiet in Neutral but curiously vibrates a little in Park. In park, if I put my hand on the engine cover, I can can also really feel strong vibrations.
These vibrations were present for some time but became stronger after having my axles replaced (with GKN) last Friday so I am guessing transmission movement during the repair impacted the trans mount.
**I replaced the engine mounts today with new Lemfoerders, so they are not the cause.***
(Engine mounts are shockingly easy to do on this car; took me longer to remove/reattach the belly pans than it did to swap out the mounts, so why are shops quoting 6+ hours and $1200+ for this job? Hmm.....)
Last edited by ericsilver; 07-23-2020 at 07:57 AM.
#2
Newbie
Thread Starter
OK, I see my error:
Those nuts have to come out since the black-ish backing they are attached to is indeed part of the bracket, as shown below, and which I overlooked when I skimmed through the DIY. The spinning bolt is not attached to anything (at least not anymore) and therefore is not the cause of my removal problem.
Those nuts have to come out since the black-ish backing they are attached to is indeed part of the bracket, as shown below, and which I overlooked when I skimmed through the DIY. The spinning bolt is not attached to anything (at least not anymore) and therefore is not the cause of my removal problem.
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
OK, my theory was incorrect. I removed the two center nuts and the bracket still is supported by the problematic bolt.
If I had access to a lift, I could resolve it fairly easily by wedging something into the triangular brace it it hanging from (top dead center of the below image. It is not solid; it is open on one side.
Any good suggestions of what I could possibly do while on my back would be appreciated. (I realize it would probably be simpler to go to a shop and angle grind the stubborn bolt off., and install the mount while they are at it) \
If I had access to a lift, I could resolve it fairly easily by wedging something into the triangular brace it it hanging from (top dead center of the below image. It is not solid; it is open on one side.
Any good suggestions of what I could possibly do while on my back would be appreciated. (I realize it would probably be simpler to go to a shop and angle grind the stubborn bolt off., and install the mount while they are at it) \
#4
I have a similar issue. Was planning to replace the front flex disc, the transmission mount, and change the transfer case fluid. Coudn't get past taking off the transmission mount bracket lol.
One of the green nuts spins freely with the thread sticking out of the mount, and the red fastener is completely rusted. I was able to back out the red fastener some, but after spraying with PB blaster and attempting to loosen it, I noticed I was translating my torque to the vertical thingy bracket it's attached to. I think I'll have to take off the two 13 mm bolts holding the heat shield in place, and then try to detach the vertical bracket from the frame (or whatever it is attached to). Appears to be a 16mm nut and bolt. Might be hard/impossible since there's barely any space. Not sure what to do with the green nut that is rusted onto the mount bolt. Guess I can try heating it up or grinding it off.
One of the green nuts spins freely with the thread sticking out of the mount, and the red fastener is completely rusted. I was able to back out the red fastener some, but after spraying with PB blaster and attempting to loosen it, I noticed I was translating my torque to the vertical thingy bracket it's attached to. I think I'll have to take off the two 13 mm bolts holding the heat shield in place, and then try to detach the vertical bracket from the frame (or whatever it is attached to). Appears to be a 16mm nut and bolt. Might be hard/impossible since there's barely any space. Not sure what to do with the green nut that is rusted onto the mount bolt. Guess I can try heating it up or grinding it off.