When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This is my personal car, I'm fairly mechanically inclined.
The engine was replaced, old engine was locked solid with severe #2 piston carnage once the secondary oil pan was pulled. Anyway, we pulled the engine with the torque converter still attached and transmission left in vehicle. Some transmission fluid was lost due to this.
Used engine sourced, cleaned up, wiring harness swapped, engine bay cleaned up. We mounted the torque converter to the engine first and put it back in the way it came out. It felt like the engine mated to the transmission perfectly, and we did not need to use bolts to pull together since there wasn't a gap. So all bolts finger started and were tightened without an issue. Engine started and sounded GREAT btw.
The next day, I put the remainder of the odds and ends back together and get it ready to move it out of my yard. It backed out of the yard and into another spot in the yard without a problem. Then, it moved again from the yard to the front driveway without a problem.
After coding the injectors, I took it on a very short test drive (less than 35mph down my backroads). Everything felt decent, but I did notice the first couple of shifts were a bit clumsy feeling. I know I didn't go through all 7 gears though with the limited speed & short run.
As I was turning around and getting ready to head home, I noticed that I was in limp and limited to a specific gear, but I was still able to move. I got the car home and pulled it into my driveway.
In the driveway, I used my Xentry DAS rig w/ Development Mode to scan for codes and found:
2716 - The internal electrical check of component Y3/8y4 (K3 clutch control solenoid valve (VGS) has failed.
Being familiar with Sprinters that have the 722.6 and these symptoms, I immediately knew I was in for a transmission service & probably a conductor plate replacement.
Of course, I also learned very quickly about this transmission and its TRP'ed parts.
Later that evening, I wanted to move the car to get it out of the way of the other person parked in the driveway. I started it, put it into reverse, and it would not move. The car would rev and rev and rev, but just would not move and I didn't want to push my luck over 3500 rpm with it being a diesel.
This was really strange, as I would not expect a conductor plate issue to render the vehicle totally unmovable. I would also expect any issues with the TCM would also cause issues starting, and would set its own codes. However, 2716 was all that remained. So, I moved forward with what I knew was wrong with it and dropped the pan, valve body/conductor plate, and prepared the conductor plate to ship it to ModuleRepairPro for their Tier 3 (Clutch Solenoid Codes, $350+) repair service. The fluid did not look burnt or tortured in anyway. No chunks, no Germany sparkle party; so I was optimistic.
When ModuleRepairPro received the unit and read my story (what you've read up to this point), I received a strange call from their technician with confirming my assumption that clutch solenoid codes do not cause total loss of movement. They agreed to repair the unit anyway and before they shipped it back, they called me again and explicitly stated, "don't expect this to make the car move again, explore other options". I bolted everything back up according to MRP's instructions and following the DIY 722.9 service guides on this forum using the overflow method with the transmission at the correct temperature. I paid extra special attention to where the shift linkage interfaces with the valve body and also the parking 'bone', they were most certainly seated before reinstallation. Additionally, the small plastic fill pipe was also reseated correct during reinstallation (something else I paid **close** attention to).
However, of course, the car still does not move. I'm not really sure where to go from here, but I'm almost certain it's not going to be cheap or fun. Just mostly seeing if anyone has any other ideas before I move onto sourcing a used transmission, or parting an otherwise very nice and functional (besides the transmission, of course) Bluetec.
Other notes:
- This car has physical linkage to the transmission and it IS connected still.
- I am able to select gears and have them show up on the dashboard. P, R, N, D, 1-6.
- When moving through these gears, these changes are reflected in the DAS as "actual gear" and "target gear".
- The car is currently on jack stands and still has NO movement to the wheels.
- the driveshaft is definitely connected.
- Rear wheels are not seized up, they can spin freely when jacked.
- Park definitely works, the vehicle rolls but will not spin the wheels in: R, N, D.
- Found a scary German developer menu in my DAS that shows that the solenoids ARE getting pressure, thus I did not shear any lugs off the transmission oil pump.
- There is NO fluid contamination in my radiator, it's all nice new coolant I put in.
- Car starts right up with no issues or stalling.
- I've also tried: starting the car in neutral and then putting in drive, and trying with ESP off. Still no rear wheel movement sadly.
Thank you for your time.
Open to any and all suggestions before going postal or parting.
This is my personal car, I'm fairly mechanically inclined.
The engine was replaced, old engine was locked solid with severe #2 piston carnage once the secondary oil pan was pulled. Anyway, we pulled the engine with the torque converter still attached and transmission left in vehicle. Some transmission fluid was lost due to this.
Used engine sourced, cleaned up, wiring harness swapped, engine bay cleaned up. We mounted the torque converter to the engine first and put it back in the way it came out. It felt like the engine mated to the transmission perfectly, and we did not need to use bolts to pull together since there wasn't a gap. So all bolts finger started and were tightened without an issue. Engine started and sounded GREAT btw.
The next day, I put the remainder of the odds and ends back together and get it ready to move it out of my yard. It backed out of the yard and into another spot in the yard without a problem. Then, it moved again from the yard to the front driveway without a problem.
After coding the injectors, I took it on a very short test drive (less than 35mph down my backroads). Everything felt decent, but I did notice the first couple of shifts were a bit clumsy feeling. I know I didn't go through all 7 gears though with the limited speed & short run.
As I was turning around and getting ready to head home, I noticed that I was in limp and limited to a specific gear, but I was still able to move. I got the car home and pulled it into my driveway.
In the driveway, I used my Xentry DAS rig w/ Development Mode to scan for codes and found:
2716 - The internal electrical check of component Y3/8y4 (K3 clutch control solenoid valve (VGS) has failed.
Being familiar with Sprinters that have the 722.6 and these symptoms, I immediately knew I was in for a transmission service & probably a conductor plate replacement.
Of course, I also learned very quickly about this transmission and its TRP'ed parts.
Later that evening, I wanted to move the car to get it out of the way of the other person parked in the driveway. I started it, put it into reverse, and it would not move. The car would rev and rev and rev, but just would not move and I didn't want to push my luck over 3500 rpm with it being a diesel.
This was really strange, as I would not expect a conductor plate issue to render the vehicle totally unmovable. I would also expect any issues with the TCM would also cause issues starting, and would set its own codes. However, 2716 was all that remained. So, I moved forward with what I knew was wrong with it and dropped the pan, valve body/conductor plate, and prepared the conductor plate to ship it to ModuleRepairPro for their Tier 3 (Clutch Solenoid Codes, $350+) repair service. The fluid did not look burnt or tortured in anyway. No chunks, no Germany sparkle party; so I was optimistic.
When ModuleRepairPro received the unit and read my story (what you've read up to this point), I received a strange call from their technician with confirming my assumption that clutch solenoid codes do not cause total loss of movement. They agreed to repair the unit anyway and before they shipped it back, they called me again and explicitly stated, "don't expect this to make the car move again, explore other options". I bolted everything back up according to MRP's instructions and following the DIY 722.9 service guides on this forum using the overflow method with the transmission at the correct temperature. I paid extra special attention to where the shift linkage interfaces with the valve body and also the parking 'bone', they were most certainly seated before reinstallation. Additionally, the small plastic fill pipe was also reseated correct during reinstallation (something else I paid **close** attention to).
However, of course, the car still does not move. I'm not really sure where to go from here, but I'm almost certain it's not going to be cheap or fun. Just mostly seeing if anyone has any other ideas before I move onto sourcing a used transmission, or parting an otherwise very nice and functional (besides the transmission, of course) Bluetec.
Other notes:
- This car has physical linkage to the transmission and it IS connected still.
- I am able to select gears and have them show up on the dashboard. P, R, N, D, 1-6.
- When moving through these gears, these changes are reflected in the DAS as "actual gear" and "target gear".
- The car is currently on jack stands and still has NO movement to the wheels.
- the driveshaft is definitely connected.
- Rear wheels are not seized up, they can spin freely when jacked.
- Park definitely works, the vehicle rolls but will not spin the wheels in: R, N, D.
- Found a scary German developer menu in my DAS that shows that the solenoids ARE getting pressure, thus I did not shear any lugs off the transmission oil pump.
- There is NO fluid contamination in my radiator, it's all nice new coolant I put in.
- Car starts right up with no issues or stalling.
- I've also tried: starting the car in neutral and then putting in drive, and trying with ESP off. Still no rear wheel movement sadly.
Thank you for your time.
Open to any and all suggestions before going postal or parting.
did you fix the problem? I am having the same issue😞
Sounds like the trans pump ears were broken off when the converter was installed incorrectly. Putting the converter on the engine first makes it almost impossible to line up
the 2 splined parts and the pump ears.
05-02-2022, 06:25 PM
