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Good morning all, just joined the site after reading about the above codes
I have a 2009 Japanese E280, that is actually badged as an E300 and 2010 model. ECM reads 2009 E280, which corresponds to the vin #.
I have recently been blessed with the dreaded codes for balance shaft problems. This occured after pressure washing the engine to remove the 211,000kms worth of grime to replace the tumble valves broken link on the intake manifold. Have not tackled this yet.
I have checked the marks on the timing gears per the 305 degree check. Initially they all lined up perfectly, however now im seeing the bank 1 exhaust cam showing a couple of degrees out to the retarded side. I do not have any chain noise, poor starting, stumbles or lack of power. Car runs smooth as it did when i bought it almost 8mnths ago.
Changed the oil and filter, Mobil 1 full synthetic per the previous owner. Replaced the magnets and sensors.
Would appreciate any advice please.
Thank you so much for your interesting reply.
Being a new member i was not certain if my previous post had been posted correctly, havig seen other posts of the same day receiving replies, hence posting again.
If this is the type of response one should expect, I wont bother. Not interested in rude inconsiderate persons of your persuasion.
Assuming the codes showed up because of the pressure wash, I would check every electrical connector:
- ECU
- camshaft position sensor
- camshaft magnet solenoid/ actuator
Be certain no oil, or corrosion. Use electronic contact cleaner spray. I would disconnect the battery while doing so.
Summary: do not pressure wash these engines again. Lucky no shorts, but just a timing code.
MB cars hate water around electronic, the older the vehicle, wear of the waterproof seals may allow water through the back of the connectors.
JCM,
Thank you for your reply. I have owned the vehicle 8 months, it has 213,000kms, the only previous code was for the tumble flaps. Around the intake was very dirty hence pressure washing, the idea was to help prevent dirt falling into the intake when removing. Obviously the wrong thing to do. I have removed the connectors cleaned them, cleaned the ecu connectors, replaced the sensors and magnets and yesterday replaced the timing chain tensioner to no avail. The wording after changing the tensioner changed from " constantly retarding" the camshafts, to "crankshaft camshaft correlation" still with the P0016 code. I used the vin decoder and checked for the balance shaft issue, my engine number is 272943 - 31-018080 which from what i found is past the 279243 - 30-468913 that had the bad balance shaft .
The car starts, idles smooth runs great with plenty of power. Do you think replacing the timing chain and vvt's would be a sensible move?
These timing codes with the M272 engine seem to trigger "parts cannon", and frustration because nothing seems to fix the codes.
I think you have done the first two steps:
1 - Check your engine number vs TSB for the balance shaft. It passed. That means it has a newer designed part, which could fail if the engine was not serviced properly
2 - Check the engine at the 305 timing mark. Unfortunately, this test MUST pass; otherwise, the "mechanical timing" is OFF somewhere. The variable timing cannot compensate for incorrect "static timing of the engine"
The focus should be sorted out as to why the "mechanical/static timing" is OFF.
1 - Off by one tooth. It is possible during assembly, but after washing the engine, and replacing the intake manifold, I do not think so.
2 - Tone/impulse wheel is OFF. It can only happen if the locking pin/notch is sheared off the wheel. Like getting hit by a lightning bolt. But possible.
3 - Worn chain tensioner, and stretched timing chain. These timing chains, when engine is properly serviced, should last. Q: how do we decide if it is stretched w/o opening the engine?
Perhaps using the scanner live data, here someone using XEntry
Thank you once again for your reply. The vehicle was owned by a fastidious mercedes person. He had it for over 8yrs and always had the required maintenance taken care of. In the process of purchasing the vehicle it developed a small leak on the power steering rack, he had it removed repaired and replaced before i could get the car.
With regard to the 305 degree check, i have checked it many times, everything lines up perfectly. I replaced the timing chain tensioner and had to remove the belt and alternator to accomplish it, I also removed the belt idler pulley above the crankshaft to get a better view of the timing marks, again all 4 cams lined up perfectly with the crankshaft mark. Even got my wife, (has better eyes😀 to check all the marks for me.
As a random test, i disconnected the 4 magnets and 4 sensors, i had the ones i had removed, so i plugged them in and ran the engine, got the same codes P0016 and P0017 saying the intake and exhaust cams bank 1 being retarded.
Not sure how it knew. Did not get any codes for disconnected sensors or magnets. Engine started and ran fine.
I have not removed the intake manifold yet, was to late in the day after pressure washing, then got these codes the next day on the school run.
Somewhat lost with this to be honest.
The shearing of the lock pin on the pulse wheels sounds plausible, would we see a difference in the position of the failed pulse wheel if this had happened? Love to find an older model with carbs and a distributer. Computers seem to fragile and sensitive to me. Engines basically havent changed, its just the systems controlling them that seems to present all the problems.
Do you have an MB-aware scanner to get a more specific message?
Did you delete the existing codes between tests? Were you able to see "no codes detected" or the like before starting the engine for each test?
I have a Topdon Phoenix plus scanner.
I did delete the codes before each test, sometimes they came back immediately and sometimes it took a couple of days driving to see them again.
Last edited by Brendon2556; Feb 12, 2025 at 01:54 PM.
Reason: Missed some information
An MB-aware scanner will also give you specific sub-codes for P0016 (that is a generic ODB error code). For example, something like
1205 Constant adjustment of intake camshaft of right cylinder bank in direction 'Advanced' (P0016)
1206 Constant adjustment of intake camshaft of right cylinder bank in direction 'Retarded' (P0016)
1207 Constant adjustment of intake camshaft of right cylinder bank in direction 'Advanced' (P0016)
1208 Constant adjustment of intake camshaft of right cylinder bank in direction 'Retarded' (P0016)
here are the errors for its siblings
P0016/17 can also be due to "dirty oil", clogged oil control valve, or the adjuster itself.
ECU commands timing change, order the actuator to activate the plunger in the oil control valve, plunger open/close galleys within and adjuster shifts giving timing change requested. ECU verifies the new position via the Camshaft Position Sensor.
Where can this chain of commands fails:
1 - Wiring, electrical connections -> Fix electrical issue
2 - Actuator is worn, and amount of actuation on the plunger is incorrect -> New actuator
3 - Oil control valve is clogged/dirty oil, galleys are not clean and ineffective in commanding the adjuster -> New Oil Control Valve
4 - Adjuster is worn internally -> New/Refurbished adjuster
5 - All the above is working, but response from the position seems incorrect -> Another long story of things that can go wrong
All of them can throw P0016, and that under the assumption the balance shaft is perfect, the adjusters were installed correctly -> which you seemed to verify already.
JCM,
Wow, your a wealth of information, thank you for your time. This is a lot to digest and check. I have changed the oil and filter, that was about 100 miles ago now. Used Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w30 per the previous owner who religiously kept up with all service.
The check valves you talk about, are they the ones in the center of vvt gears that the magnets operate?
I did clean all the electrical connectors with contact electrical cleaner, cleaned the connectors on the ECM, removed and cleaned the connector on the crankshaft sensor.
I will run a live data on the camshafts and let you know the readings. Im driving the car, it runs the same as it did when i first got it. Getting ( per the display) 28.6 mpg doing local stop start driving, average approx 40-50 miles per day.
I live in Nassau Bahamas, so there is no highway driving, lol. Cant reach 60mph.
(I always remember customers coming into Mercedes with poor running cars back in the early 70's, the test driver would take them out on the Great West Road ( Brentford England) and run them hard. It cleaned them out they ran great afterwards.)
Sadly not going to fix this issue.
I have a lot more to review from your post, thank you one again. Will let you know asap.
Notice that intake and exhaust "oil control valve" are different. Not sure if internally different, but definitely the threads are different: right vs left. So careful if you try to get them out.
On the oil: I already use 5W40 on all our MB engines: M272 and 3xM276 since new. So I would not use 5W30 on high mileage one. I started with M1 5W40, but noticed the M276s were drinking it @1qt/10K miles and dark. Though within specs, I moved to Motul 5W40 (Indy advice} and the drinking stopped and still amber @5K miles. I never use additives on our engines MB or not.
I am old school, the old 20w50 was my staple, in england, these new oils seem like water to me, but followed the old owner and specs due to the sensitive nature of these new generation engines. However i will definitely take your advice and use 5w40. Its hot here in the summer so a higher viscosity to me would make a lot more sense.
Your replies are greatly appreciated, its a pleasure to talk with someone who has the time and experience to assist. Thank you kindly.
I will do some more checks and run the results by you, if thats okay.
I am old school, the old 20w50 was my staple, in england, these new oils seem like water to me, but followed the old owner and specs due to the sensitive nature of these new generation engines. However i will definitely take your advice and use 5w40. Its hot here in the summer so a higher viscosity to me would make a lot more sense.
Your replies are greatly appreciated, its a pleasure to talk with someone who has the time and experience to assist. Thank you kindly.
I will do some more checks and run the results by you, if thats okay.
I use 5w-30 in winter and 5w-40 in summer for the same reasons. Australia gets hot so it makes sense. I did laugh at the 20w-50 line. I was exactly the same.
Hey Black ML, thank you for your reply. I will definitely go with the heavier grade next change.
Glad you got a chuckle on the 20w50. I had an old 2.4 jag that i ran on straight 90w gear oil, the mains were worn out, from cold always kept good oil pressure. If i started it hot, no oil pressure. Drove it like that for 2yrs, never had a check engine light, lol.
JCM,
Wow, your a wealth of information, thank you for your time. This is a lot to digest and check. I have changed the oil and filter, that was about 100 miles ago now. Used Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w30 per the previous owner who religiously kept up with all service.
The check valves you talk about, are they the ones in the center of vvt gears that the magnets operate?
I did clean all the electrical connectors with contact electrical cleaner, cleaned the connectors on the ECM, removed and cleaned the connector on the crankshaft sensor.
I will run a live data on the camshafts and let you know the readings. Im driving the car, it runs the same as it did when i first got it. Getting ( per the display) 28.6 mpg doing local stop start driving, average approx 40-50 miles per day.
I live in Nassau Bahamas, so there is no highway driving, lol. Cant reach 60mph.
(I always remember customers coming into Mercedes with poor running cars back in the early 70's, the test driver would take them out on the Great West Road ( Brentford England) and run them hard. It cleaned them out they ran great afterwards.)
Sadly not going to fix this issue.
I have a lot more to review from your post, thank you one again. Will let you know asap.
As I said before, once the static/mechanical timing has been confirmed, electricals must be *" VERIFIED"* carefully. Why?
Another owner spent since Jan29 until today tracking down these P0016/17 on his M272. I suggested same approach (I was not detailed enough perhaps), but he (and I from this far) ended up near the end of the list: oil control valve.
He finally went back to step 1: electricals, and confirmed bent/loose pin at the position sensor connector. Sometimes the connector seems straight, but we usually fail to check the female side. The pin can go smoothly, but fail to drag enough for proper contact. That will be a FAILED pin drag test.
JCM, good morning, thank you for the information. Im guessing something electrical as well.
I ran a live test, the readings i got were the Bank 2 numbers on intake and exhaust cams were fluctuating, the Bank 1 numbers remained static.
I have replaced the sensors and magnets, cleaned the connectors, all looked good. But will recheck.
Would you have the pinout diagram for the connectors to the ecm, or know where i could find it? Im also guessing both banks should show fluctuating numbers when the engine is running. Look forward to your thoughts. Thanks.
JCM, ran some more checks, the no1 and no2 banks read 36.2 intakes 20 exhaust, after clearing codes all 4 cams were reading variable degrees around the above numbers at idle, run engine to 1200+rpms, bank 1 stops at 36.2 and 20, no2 bank continues to read and adjust. When no1 stops reading it has triggered the codes 1200 and 1208, p1600 and p1700. Car runs great, starts as it should no rumbles. Did a recheck of the 305 degree mark to the cam wheels, all perfectly aligned.
Changed the hall sensors from the no2 bank to no1 bank, cleared codes, ran engine same scenario. So guessing not the hall sensors as the worked on the no2 bank.
Lost at the moment. Any more thoughts greatly appreciated.
JCM, ran some more checks, the no1 and no2 banks read 36.2 intakes 20 exhaust, after clearing codes all 4 cams were reading variable degrees around the above numbers at idle, run engine to 1200+rpms, bank 1 stops at 36.2 and 20, no2 bank continues to read and adjust. When no1 stops reading it has triggered the codes 1200 and 1208, p1600 and p1700. Car runs great, starts as it should no rumbles. Did a recheck of the 305 degree mark to the cam wheels, all perfectly aligned.
Changed the hall sensors from the no2 bank to no1 bank, cleared codes, ran engine same scenario. So guessing not the hall sensors as the worked on the no2 bank.
Lost at the moment. Any more thoughts greatly appreciated.
The story I mentioned before was the same. Delete codes, the engine is fine until the next start. Did you do the "pin drag test" on the Hall sensors?
I do not have access to WIS at the moment, but here is a link to a table for the pin out
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to check all the marks for me.
