E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

2003 W211 E320 Car starts but won't drive

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Old Mar 11, 2025 | 12:13 AM
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2003 W211 E320 Car starts but won't drive

I recently did a bit of work to my car but am having some issues after finishing and driving it for a bit.

Current Issue:
- Car starts and engine runs fine but if i put the car in drive or reverse and push on the gas petal, the car doesn't move, however it does rev up as if it's trying to do something and pushes out a large amount of white smoke.

Progress of events:

1. Changed the oil and oil filter (i.e opened the engine oil cap, removed the oil filter, drained the old oil (i.e opened oil pan screw, tightened it back up after drain), put in the new oil filter, filled the engine with new oil (i.e 8 quarts as indicated by google search) with 5w-40, closed engine oil cap)
2. Replaced alternator (i.e removed old alternator, put in new alternator), double check battery, voltage holds and charges while running
3. Drove the car for 45 minutes, at which point the dash said i had too much oil and to drain some ( i also noticed white smoke coming out the back of the car whenever i went up into higher gears )
4. Returned home, drained 2 - 3 quarts of oil, went into car, did the oil check and it said it still had too much oil
5. Drained more oil to the point in which it barely had any coming out at all, went into the car, did the oil check and it still said it had too much oil
6. Ran the car, started up just fine, no issues
7. Pressed on the gas petal, now the car won't move at all and whenever i press the gas petal i get large amounts of white smoke out the back of my car
8. If i leave the car idle i now hear a loud clicking noise from the engine, upon inspection while it was running i can see one of the metal objects that holds part of the belt loop (i.e the one next to the 17mm bolt for loosing the belts tension, to the right of the bolt) moving back and forth slightly, thus making a clicking noise when the metal rattles against each other

I'm at a loss here as i thought this would be a simple oil change and i've pulled the alternator out a few times before so that is rather straight forward. At this time there are no issues displayed on the dash.

I should mention that the smoke is a thick white smoke that lingers and does not dissipate quickly.

If anyone has any thoughts on what the issue is or what a likely fix could be i would truly appreciate any assistance in this matter. Thank you!

Last edited by darkeccho; Mar 11, 2025 at 12:24 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2025 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Plutoe
forget the verbage get a factory or equal scan and post the results. The faults will be your guidepost.
Unfortunately the OBD port has a broken pin, i actually bought an OBD reader a while back and realize i couldn't use it because it wouldn't click into the port due to the broken pin

Last edited by darkeccho; Mar 11, 2025 at 11:37 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2025 | 04:30 PM
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Sounds like you may not have drained the engine oil the first time, maybe you drained the transmission fluid instead, so you ended up with twice the engine oil and no transmission fluid. It would explain the burning oil and lack of power transfer.

If I were you, I would take some pictures of the drain bolts and fill holes you used as well as checking all the fluid levels. Stop running the car until you confirm that all fluids are filled with the correct fluids and at the correct levels.

Last edited by beef1020; Mar 11, 2025 at 04:31 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2025 | 08:31 PM
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Agree, I think you've drained the trans fluid. Good news is you probably haven't damaged the transmission. Engine should also be fine as you couldn't really drive around with it overfilled. Also you've confirmed the oil level sensor works!

Fill the transmission back with the proper MB ATF and it'll run better than new. I am assuming when you drained your transmission, the color was mostly black. Just a word of caution, refilling the 722.6 transmission to the proper level is some work. I highly suggest getting an MB transmission dipstick tool and checking the fluid when the car is level, engine is running and the fluid is warmed up. That is the only way to make sure you get a correct reading and these transmissions do not like to be slightly under or overfilled.

Also the engine drain plug will usually be a bolt of some type. Whereas the transmission pan may have a screw type drain plug.

Last edited by F1Fan; Mar 12, 2025 at 08:36 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2025 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by beef1020
Sounds like you may not have drained the engine oil the first time, maybe you drained the transmission fluid instead, so you ended up with twice the engine oil and no transmission fluid. It would explain the burning oil and lack of power transfer.

If I were you, I would take some pictures of the drain bolts and fill holes you used as well as checking all the fluid levels. Stop running the car until you confirm that all fluids are filled with the correct fluids and at the correct levels.
Thanks for the tip on this, you were correct i ended up draining the Transmission oil instead of the engine oil.

I've addressed this, correctly filled the Transmission oil, drained the engine oil, refilled to recommended amount (i.e 8.5 quarts) and flushed / filled power steering fluid.

I still get a small amount of white smoke out of the tailpipe but it's nothing like it was before, it's thin an dissipates quickly, i image this will burn off over time.

While i was addressing this i managed to fix the OBD port (i.e fixed the bent pin), cleared the codes and did a complete readout again, no check engine light, transmission shifts gears correctly and all is good.

Once again this forum saved me a huge headache, thank you so much!

Last edited by darkeccho; Mar 12, 2025 at 08:47 PM.
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