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Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
W211 DIY Brake Job
#26
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2011 E550, 2013 GLK
Originally Posted by Catelo
Wish I would have known about that before I ordered mine. Do you happen to have a picture... My father works at a dealership and I am friends with the parts guy so I get price breaks on auto parts. I am not sure how much the OEM brakes cost at MB but I am paying $82 for the front pads, $64 for the rear and $4 for each of the sensors. These are MB OEM parts I am purchasing as well.
Normally, Internet sites have pictures but in the case of brake pads, there are none. Here's one well known site.
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com...Children=false
And a better one with some prices...
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com...tion=000480312
The pads you are getting from the dealer are probably Pagid's. In my experience they are smoother than Textars. I'd stick with what you are getting.
Last edited by BudC; 01-04-2005 at 12:18 AM.
#27
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Originally Posted by Catelo
I know this thread is a little old but it is of high importance to me right now.
I am about to take this task on, and just wanted to know if the "Brake wear Visit Workshop" message goes away after the new pads and sensors are installed, or do I have to reset the computer in any way. Also, I was told that at no time until the job is done and all four tires are mounted should I try to open the doors because if so the calipers will close and can cause serious injury. Is this true even after disconnecting the SBC? BTW.. I am going with all Mercedes factory parts for this project, I am a big beleiver in OEM parts, especially for my baby..
I am about to take this task on, and just wanted to know if the "Brake wear Visit Workshop" message goes away after the new pads and sensors are installed, or do I have to reset the computer in any way. Also, I was told that at no time until the job is done and all four tires are mounted should I try to open the doors because if so the calipers will close and can cause serious injury. Is this true even after disconnecting the SBC? BTW.. I am going with all Mercedes factory parts for this project, I am a big beleiver in OEM parts, especially for my baby..
I did not have the "Brake Wear Visit Workshop" message on my car when I changed brakes so I cannot answer that question for you. I will say that you should not attempt to open the doors during the brake job, even with the SBC disconnected. I locked the doors, put the key in my pocket, and then jacked the car up. It was just not worth the risk, not to mention there is really no need to open the doors while you are replacing the brakes. The factory alarm will sound when you lower the car so have your keys handy as you are coming down from the jack.
I used Pagid brake pads that I bought from SportBrakes for $85 and $65 for the front and rear. These pads seem to create less dust than the factory pads that I removed. If you are just doing pads (no rotors) you will be surprised at how easy this job is. Good luck to you and let us know if the how you address the brake wear indicator.
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2004 E-320
Originally Posted by Iceman
Catelo,
I did not have the "Brake Wear Visit Workshop" message on my car when I changed brakes so I cannot answer that question for you. I will say that you should not attempt to open the doors during the brake job, even with the SBC disconnected. I locked the doors, put the key in my pocket, and then jacked the car up. It was just not worth the risk, not to mention there is really no need to open the doors while you are replacing the brakes. The factory alarm will sound when you lower the car so have your keys handy as you are coming down from the jack.
I used Pagid brake pads that I bought from SportBrakes for $85 and $65 for the front and rear. These pads seem to create less dust than the factory pads that I removed. If you are just doing pads (no rotors) you will be surprised at how easy this job is. Good luck to you and let us know if the how you address the brake wear indicator.
I did not have the "Brake Wear Visit Workshop" message on my car when I changed brakes so I cannot answer that question for you. I will say that you should not attempt to open the doors during the brake job, even with the SBC disconnected. I locked the doors, put the key in my pocket, and then jacked the car up. It was just not worth the risk, not to mention there is really no need to open the doors while you are replacing the brakes. The factory alarm will sound when you lower the car so have your keys handy as you are coming down from the jack.
I used Pagid brake pads that I bought from SportBrakes for $85 and $65 for the front and rear. These pads seem to create less dust than the factory pads that I removed. If you are just doing pads (no rotors) you will be surprised at how easy this job is. Good luck to you and let us know if the how you address the brake wear indicator.
Thanks for all the help
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2004 E-320
Originally Posted by BudC
Hey guys, what kind of mileage are you getting on these pads? I suspect it's a lot less than on older Mercedes.
#31
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2004 E-320
Originally Posted by Iceman
Catelo,
I did not have the "Brake Wear Visit Workshop" message on my car when I changed brakes so I cannot answer that question for you. I will say that you should not attempt to open the doors during the brake job, even with the SBC disconnected. I locked the doors, put the key in my pocket, and then jacked the car up. It was just not worth the risk, not to mention there is really no need to open the doors while you are replacing the brakes. The factory alarm will sound when you lower the car so have your keys handy as you are coming down from the jack.
I used Pagid brake pads that I bought from SportBrakes for $85 and $65 for the front and rear. These pads seem to create less dust than the factory pads that I removed. If you are just doing pads (no rotors) you will be surprised at how easy this job is. Good luck to you and let us know if the how you address the brake wear indicator.
I did not have the "Brake Wear Visit Workshop" message on my car when I changed brakes so I cannot answer that question for you. I will say that you should not attempt to open the doors during the brake job, even with the SBC disconnected. I locked the doors, put the key in my pocket, and then jacked the car up. It was just not worth the risk, not to mention there is really no need to open the doors while you are replacing the brakes. The factory alarm will sound when you lower the car so have your keys handy as you are coming down from the jack.
I used Pagid brake pads that I bought from SportBrakes for $85 and $65 for the front and rear. These pads seem to create less dust than the factory pads that I removed. If you are just doing pads (no rotors) you will be surprised at how easy this job is. Good luck to you and let us know if the how you address the brake wear indicator.
#32
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2011 E550, 2013 GLK
Originally Posted by Catelo
Well to anyone who is interested, I recieved my new rear brake sensor today. I jacked up my car, replaced the old sensor and that was it, "Brake Wear Visit Workshop" warning disappeared. Another job well done thanks to you guys. Hope this helps someone else in the future the way it helped me out.
TIA,
Bud
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2004 E-320
Originally Posted by BudC
How many miles on the pads? How worn were the pads? Front? Rear?
TIA,
Bud
TIA,
Bud
As far as the wear on the pads, all four needed to be replaced and were approx all worn pretty evenly, except for my rear, right brake wich was extremely worn out. I probably only had maybe a day or two before I would have been putting my rotors at risk of serious damage. Wish I had a camera to take photos of the job and old brakes, but some **s hole stole mine so I need to get a new one.
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2011 E550, 2013 GLK
Originally Posted by Catelo
Well like I mentioned before, my warning went off at approx. the 19000 mile mark, a little less actually.
As far as the wear on the pads, all four needed to be replaced and were approx all worn pretty evenly, except for my rear, right brake wich was extremely worn out. I probably only had maybe a day or two before I would have been putting my rotors at risk of serious damage. Wish I had a camera to take photos of the job and old brakes, but some **s hole stole mine so I need to get a new one.
As far as the wear on the pads, all four needed to be replaced and were approx all worn pretty evenly, except for my rear, right brake wich was extremely worn out. I probably only had maybe a day or two before I would have been putting my rotors at risk of serious damage. Wish I had a camera to take photos of the job and old brakes, but some **s hole stole mine so I need to get a new one.
#35
Easy as Pie (Photo Steps)
This was the easiest brake job I have EVER done (less than 20 minutes)...and I've done quite a few on different autos. And the cost to do this yourself is astounding ($102 vs $530 dealership quote). Here is a series of photos that may help others in their attempt.
1. Apply the parking brake, pull the hood lever, exit the car and set the key aside.
2. Open the hood a locate the SBC connector
3. Pull up the SBC Clip to unlock the connector
4. Pivot the connector backward to disengage and set aside
5. Lift car and remove tire. This is the before shot
6. Unplug Brake Pad connector and sensor
7. Tap out holding pins (I used a thin drill bit and a hammer to do this)
8. Remove pad holder
9. Compress piston using c-clamp or carefully with pliers (Not much force needed). DO THIS WHILE OLD PADS ARE STILL IN THE ASSEMBLY
10. Remove pads
11. Insert new pads
12. Re-insert pins
13. Hook pad holder under first pin then press down and insert second pin
14. Replug sensor and connector. I had to used the old one since Mercedesshop did not send that sensor for this side...even though this one is still unbroken I will replace tomorrow after purchase locally
15. All Done
Hope this helps someone!
1. Apply the parking brake, pull the hood lever, exit the car and set the key aside.
2. Open the hood a locate the SBC connector
3. Pull up the SBC Clip to unlock the connector
4. Pivot the connector backward to disengage and set aside
5. Lift car and remove tire. This is the before shot
6. Unplug Brake Pad connector and sensor
7. Tap out holding pins (I used a thin drill bit and a hammer to do this)
8. Remove pad holder
9. Compress piston using c-clamp or carefully with pliers (Not much force needed). DO THIS WHILE OLD PADS ARE STILL IN THE ASSEMBLY
10. Remove pads
11. Insert new pads
12. Re-insert pins
13. Hook pad holder under first pin then press down and insert second pin
14. Replug sensor and connector. I had to used the old one since Mercedesshop did not send that sensor for this side...even though this one is still unbroken I will replace tomorrow after purchase locally
15. All Done
Hope this helps someone!
Last edited by burkett; 03-10-2005 at 01:30 AM. Reason: Added comment
#37
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2011 E550, 2013 GLK
How did you lift the car? Is there some place on these cars where you can use a jackstand. If you use the car jack to raise the car, there are no pads for jackstands.
#38
mbfan..I will take some additional pictures when I get home for more detail on that but what Iceman instructed earlier in the thread was really descriptive .
BudC...I used a standard run-of-the mill hydraulic 2-ton jack and just do one side at a time
BudC...I used a standard run-of-the mill hydraulic 2-ton jack and just do one side at a time
#39
Thanks for everyone's help. I changed the pads finally. My car has 34000 miles. I think the old pads should be able to hold up for another 2000-3000 miles but I decided to change them because the brake feels slippy. Anyway, just one thing everybody should take extra step. After you pop the hood and closed the door, you should wait for an hour before start to performing the brake job. The reason is when I unplug the SBC module right after I close the door, the car gave out the red error message - something like the brake is malfunction and increase braking distance. Luckily, I plug back the SBC module and the error go away. Hope the information will help other people. Make sure you put your car back to sleep before work on the car.
#40
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E320 CDI W211
Brake job E320 CDI
Ok Guys
I did the brake job as illustrated by the photos in this forum.
It took me one hour to do all four corners.
I HAVE HAD NO WARNING ON THE ON BOARD SERVICE COMPUTER TO SUGEST A BRAKE PROBLEM.
I lifted the hood then I pressed the hood retainers back into there locked postion then disconected the harness on the pump.
I then closed all doors, windows ,sunroof and left the car UNLOCKED AND THEN PUT THE KEY AWAY FROM MY BODY AS NOT ACTIVATE ACCIDENTLY THE CARS SYSTEM.
My mileage was 24,000 and noticed all eight pads were around 75% worn.
I bought original MB pads here in the U.K.costing £98 ($170) thats with trade discount and the sensors were included in the box.....surprise!.
BE VERY CAREFULL ......:
THE CENSORS ON THE FRONTS ARE NOT THE SAME FOR BOTH SIDES.
You will notice drilled holes in the pads ..........Take notice of this as the sensors are differant in size to fit the the holes.
I did notice that one sensor on one side of the car was cut with normal pad wear (thus telling the onboard sys service computer).I guess to calculate the next service period.The other side sensor was un-cut.
There is only one sensor on the rears.
The job was streight foreward as to replacing any other brake pads.
I then pulled the hood release handle as to release the retainers to allow the hood to be droped.
NOW HERE COMES THE HEART ATTACK.
I started the car the instrument panel lit up like a Christmas tree telling me brake failure with sirens sounding.
I then switched the engine off took out the key THEN PUMPED THE BRAKE PEDAL FOR ONE MINUTE AS TO AS TO BRING THE PADS CLOSER TO THE ROTARS......HEY-PRESTO.......JOB DONE.....NO PROBLEMS.
I was quoted £300 (Thats over $500) by my local MB to replace all four corners.........this is hell of a big saving.
Off course I could have saved more on the none genuine MB pads by as much of 50%.
Hope this tells you guys as how not to get riped off.
Love my E320 CDI
Les.......Chesterfield U.K.
I did the brake job as illustrated by the photos in this forum.
It took me one hour to do all four corners.
I HAVE HAD NO WARNING ON THE ON BOARD SERVICE COMPUTER TO SUGEST A BRAKE PROBLEM.
I lifted the hood then I pressed the hood retainers back into there locked postion then disconected the harness on the pump.
I then closed all doors, windows ,sunroof and left the car UNLOCKED AND THEN PUT THE KEY AWAY FROM MY BODY AS NOT ACTIVATE ACCIDENTLY THE CARS SYSTEM.
My mileage was 24,000 and noticed all eight pads were around 75% worn.
I bought original MB pads here in the U.K.costing £98 ($170) thats with trade discount and the sensors were included in the box.....surprise!.
BE VERY CAREFULL ......:
THE CENSORS ON THE FRONTS ARE NOT THE SAME FOR BOTH SIDES.
You will notice drilled holes in the pads ..........Take notice of this as the sensors are differant in size to fit the the holes.
I did notice that one sensor on one side of the car was cut with normal pad wear (thus telling the onboard sys service computer).I guess to calculate the next service period.The other side sensor was un-cut.
There is only one sensor on the rears.
The job was streight foreward as to replacing any other brake pads.
I then pulled the hood release handle as to release the retainers to allow the hood to be droped.
NOW HERE COMES THE HEART ATTACK.
I started the car the instrument panel lit up like a Christmas tree telling me brake failure with sirens sounding.
I then switched the engine off took out the key THEN PUMPED THE BRAKE PEDAL FOR ONE MINUTE AS TO AS TO BRING THE PADS CLOSER TO THE ROTARS......HEY-PRESTO.......JOB DONE.....NO PROBLEMS.
I was quoted £300 (Thats over $500) by my local MB to replace all four corners.........this is hell of a big saving.
Off course I could have saved more on the none genuine MB pads by as much of 50%.
Hope this tells you guys as how not to get riped off.
Love my E320 CDI
Les.......Chesterfield U.K.
#41
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Brabus K3
Why you don't disconnet the negative in the battery and after the SBC?
Doing this I think you wont have error messages.
Can someone post the pics that have error?
Best Regards.
Doing this I think you wont have error messages.
Can someone post the pics that have error?
Best Regards.
#42
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11 ML350W2 / 17 GLC300
Rubensans,
There are many computers in the W211 that require constant power from the batteries. There is a small battery under the cabin air filter that provides backup power when the main battery in the trunk is disconnected. If both batteries are disconnected, many of the computers will register errors that will have to be cleared.
Jim
There are many computers in the W211 that require constant power from the batteries. There is a small battery under the cabin air filter that provides backup power when the main battery in the trunk is disconnected. If both batteries are disconnected, many of the computers will register errors that will have to be cleared.
Jim
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Brabus K3
Then I won't disconnect any battery.
As I can see the key is close the car and then disconnect SBC; do the work, reconnect SBC, and open the car, no?
Best Regards.
As I can see the key is close the car and then disconnect SBC; do the work, reconnect SBC, and open the car, no?
Best Regards.
#44
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You are right on. Normally one would not venture into the car during a brake job anyway, here it is just more important not to do so. Pop the hood, close the door and lock it, put the key in the house, open the hood and disconnect the SBC. From there on out it is a standard brake job. It's good to see that others have added to this thread and saved all of us some hard earned money. I have 30,000 miles on my "new" brakes and they are holding up well. The rotors are starting to show some wear but the pads look like new still. I believe the Pagid pads will last longer than the MB pads but the rotors, due to the nature of the system, will still wear fairly fast.
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#46
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Its big and Grey!
Originally Posted by W211 Ryda
Could someone send me the set of pics for the DIY? Half of the ones posted are Red Xs.
#48
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Originally Posted by burkett
I would gladly edit that post but I am not sure how to. Any ideas?!?!?
(pretty please?)..
(with cheese on top?)..
#49
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2015 ML 350
The "Edit" button is a button located next to the "Quote" button on your newly posted item, that disappears after a certain timed interval. (Less than 18-24 hours). A poster who wants to edit his own post has the ability to do so, by going back to his own post and clicking the "Edit" button. After that time period passes the button is gone and so is the chance to edit your post.
Last edited by Barry45RPM; 12-09-2005 at 11:39 AM.