if the topic is changed to more-accurately reflect its content matter* (full and proper M112K implant into M112 4matic vehicle) let it be known the original thread name was AIWYL because:

1. i found it funny,
2. that's how i allege people say it here, and;
3. i'm allowed to do what i want, because i end up doing stupid **** like this.

more specifically this topic concerns the transplant of an SLK32 engine grafted into a W211 E320 4matic

• the expression of this word is often accompanied by an intense and sudden head jerk (whiplash motion) that is supposed to convey some kind of passion.
  • please don't use artificial intelligence aids to pronounce a word that requires sophisticated interpretation.
    • you drag the "wyl" into the "ai".
    • you don't pronounce them in distinct syllables.
    • the word isn't "a-will"
    • it's not "aye-will" either, though that's closer. smooth it out like a baseball swing and you're almost there.

* i won't get in your way, mods
---

WARNING/WRITTEN ACKNOWLEDGMENT:
anyways, please keep in mind have pending litigation against a party for selling me a supercharged engine with a NONFUNCTIONAL MAGNETIC COUPLER....

• WHAT ARE THE ODDS, SERIOUSLY? first one EVER? how can an entity say it "ran very well" and was "tested" if they don't test the supercharger?!!?!?!
  • some jaarmans claimed to have this issew:
    • https://www.mercedes-forum.com/threa...-defekt.87192/
    • https://www.mercedes-forum.com/threa...elmotor.91283/
    • https://www.mercedes-forum.com/threa...-32-amg.72794/

.... and they may try to use this post to somehow attack my position, in spite of me having spent ridiculous amounts of man hours fixing things they never stated in their listing. IT IS NOT TESTED AND RUNNING WELL IF THE SUPERCHARGER IS DEAD!

---

THANKS:
i want to extend a huge and big thank you to my habibro (lol) deplore @ benzworld for being there every step of the way. he has seen all of these pictures in real time.

• i couldn't have done it without him and i need to make that clear.
  • but he couldn't do anything but call in the plays.
    • i had to make the reads and call some no-huddle audibles (especially during the second pull and re-timing the whole engine).
  • that being said, he was much of the brains early-on.
  • when the timing issue came up, that was on me and that's where i channeled His Airness

my dawg barry birdwell for all of the help with the fuel pumps for sure. i would have been pooched without you fam

---

GOOD/BAD:

the good:

• AIWYL consumption seems normal.
  • after about 5000km and filling with 10qt (2 jugs) mobil 0w40, i have about ~6L left and i'm not even sure my oil dipstick seal is in properly (lol). that's probably with 15 hours of idling included, which let me work on the car (retrofitting rear folding seats) when it was -30 outside.
    • to anyone judging me about not checking the oil dipstick seal thoroughly: i did try my best, but i was under serious time constraints.
      • it was late october and my handa's insurance expired in early october (i have to rebuild it since some idiot hit me) and i needed a car.
        • famous last words, i know ("i needed a car") but i think it's not that bad. can't drive 5000km if it's that bad. looks like i do need another idler pulley though.

the bad:

• this took a lot of time. my time isn't cheap.
• whether i'm actively being compensated, and whether i'm sacrificing such compensation for this project, is an entirely different story.
• if i can succeed at this, it's pretty ****ing obvious that my time isn't cheap.

---

i'm going full eric-o, paying homage to his "raw shop sounds" video (hahaha tf man, guy acting like it's a beach boys album title) and not give any captions.

---

SUMMARY:

some highlights/high-level summary

• had to pull an engine TWICE (regular m112 first time, m112k second time),
  1. first time took a while since it was a friend being compensated for keeping the car in their lot for many years and it wasn't a front-burner thing.
  2. second time i did it completely by myself (everything save pulling the exhaust and resting the flanges above the steering column)
• had to do a timing cover TWICE because the seller sold me an engine with a STRETCHED-*** timing chain, which was only discovered AFTER INSTALLATION.
  • please don't judge me for not checking the timing the first time.
    • i didn't know **** about how an engine worked before any of this.
      • i didn't expect to.
    • nonetheless the whole experience has made me even more dangerous than before:
      • i've just timed an M112k BY MYSELF, INCLUDING MOUNTING THE CHAIN ON THE CAMS.
    • NO HELP. FIRST CAR. NO MISFIRE CODES. ONLY CODE IS THE P0420 P0430 FROM RUINING MY CATS WITH MY PREVIOUSLY AIWYLY ENGINE
• thankfully i had my OLD m112 heads and i swapped as much of the m112k gear as-was possible. the pistons looked ok for the most part, but significant coolant had leaked into the heads and the seller didn't check this, making my job even more difficult than it should ahve been. you will see some pitting (possibly causing the scoring on that cylinder) that's probably caused by coolant rocks.

---

MY THOUGHTS:

do not do this. you will either go broke and succeed, or you will go broke and have no vehicle. this isn't as easy as i thought it was. it was certainly rewarding.
the o2 sensor/air pump wiring are drastically different. you will need to surgically excise parts of your W211 M112 wire harness and skilfully embed it in your SLK32 harness.

good luck to anyone buying an m112k engine. i was a fool at the start to expect this engine to be as good as the seller described, who was also a fool to sell it with a "part guarantee" and not disclose their terms of warranty prior to delivery.

• i am going to hurt them badly in court and invoke section 40 so yards are forced to change their standard practice to disclose the invoice (that contains the terms) prior to delivery/shipping. and they will be refunding me for the engine, which is a pittance compared to the additional time it took to fix timing/use my old heads (and get the valves+springs [plus new stem seals] swapped over) because of the timing chain.

with that out of the way..

--

PREREQUISITES:
anyone even *thinking* about putting the M112k engine into a W211 4matic MUST have a 2004 or 2005 e320 4matic and complete SLK32 engine (i.e. with harness) because SLK32 AIWYL pump has the same shape as the 03-05 E320 4matic!!

• the SLK320 and E320 oil pumps are the same, so the SLK32's AIWYL pump is PERFECT for the W211 4matic sump
• you CANNOT use a C32 engine and then swap the AIWYL pump with a regular W211 as the M112K pump moves approximately 70% more AIWYL than the non-K variant.
  • this would make sense since the crank pulley is an 8 ribber

- as such the C32 AIWYL pump will not work with the design of the M112 W211 4matic AIWYL sump, but you are free to try and further build upon deplore and our's work.

there will be a bit of rewiring required as well.

if you want to do it right, you need to tear apart the M112-non-K engine harness, read the diagrams to splice in the O2 sensors and air pump not for the faint of heart.

--

MY CHANGES/PARTLIST

1. FULL e55 cooling setup
   • radiator,
   • additional heat exchanger
   • hoses
   • pump (tastefully wired all the way back to the front sam and fused tapped into the cigarette lighter
   • NO E55 gargantuan transmission/engine AIWYL coolers that sit on the passenger side bumper and also underneat the radiator, because we're already running a 55 radiator and sticking with the 4matic transmission
   • thanks to bosch hydraulic for helping me design the custom hydraulic lines for the transmission aiwyl cooler lines (inverted flare beginning at the front of the block to the metal pipes on the E55 cooler, bypassing the additional unnecessary coolers)
2. CLS55 ECU flashed with the C32/SLK32 FLS file.
   1. as deplore stated in our lengthy exchange (look for it if you care), the 203/170 use a primitive form of communication for some things, so you cannot start the M112k engine more than once without having to cut power to the ECU when you try to do it a second time. this is why you need the 55 PCB to ensure the immo feature works properly (primarily).
   2. also the 32 FLS allows you to set AWD but you will need to edit the hex to enable SBC, whereas the 55 allows SBC but no 4matic.
3. E55 fuel pumps.
   • big thanks to bobby at i-80 auto parts in gary indiana (home of the Great One) for scoring me the COMPLETE cooling setup and fuel pumps. i couldn't have done this without you man
4. 55 air cleaner boxes and hoses
5. C32/SLK32 power steering pump and A/C compressor (8 ribbers)
6. C32 alternator pulley
7. {CLS/E/S/SL/CL}55 or 06-07 {ML,R}500 180A alternator
   • new fuel pumps gonna be drawing upwards of 30A so you need to be ready
8. SLS63 AMG air pump with bracket
   • couldn't source the E55-E63 fast enough, nor in retrospect would it be worth it because of how it bolts to the airmatic pump bracket
9. customised power steering pressure that used the C32 banjo fitting.
   • regular M112 PS pump WILL NOT WORK with the thicker 8 ribber.
   • it's more than a cosmetic difference, as the "hoop" design of the regular m112 banjo isn't the long hockey stick-shape of the m112k
10. customised a/c hose that goes to the evaporator (if you're using the 55 radiator) since the 55 radiator is thicker, pushing the P.S. cooler about an inch farther back. i doubt the 55 PS cooler can fix this.
11. you can use the regular m112 belt tensioner with the m112k guide pulley to mimic the M112k tensioner. just use a HANDA oil pan crush washer behind the pulley and you'll get the perfect amount of vertical for the belt to sit nicely centred.

---

NUDITY (lots of AIWYL, BIG WET SUMPS)



if my car blows up tomorrow or something, let it be a sign that the Lord has said the internet isn't for bragging; and contrary to what you may see, always remember: when things get signed, lists are made and souls are collected ^_^ <- the last part is the best, can't you tell i love it?

toodles

start

 

*record stop scratch sound* off a ****ing tooth (or more)? the **** you say? sigh yi yi!

did

this

all

again

in

a

day



where one's worthiness in the marsehdee pantheon is determined. are you gonna be a ***** and pretend the balance shaft can't be 180 degrees out, and just look at the front? or are you gonna do it right?

coolant rocks. thanks guys. "runs good" uhuh. maybe. this is the worst cylinder

second worst. could have been way worse.

new chain so tight you wonder whether its the right one. yes, it's that difficult.


















thanks to my uncle devinder for helping me get this seal started. no tool. hoping it's not leaking. we'll know when i look under (eventually :P). this is a very hard seal to get into a new cover.



the mockups that i used for the lads at bosch hydraulic

 

here's the video of the cold start that i promised. my blower motor is going i should really get it changed. days like today remind me why (i have to start it, let it get warm, start it again and then it's ok)

roughly 4700km. i did put in like that 200ml can of liquimoly cleaner. so what is that?

9.46 - 5.9= 3.56L/4639km = ~0.767L/1000km

(at least 4639km, that's the difference between todays' vid and the first one i posted in october. it's probably around 4700)

should be fine since i'm not planning to do extended AIWYL changes and i'll take 5000 for 2 jugs for this kind of engine

 

here are all of the codes stored from the time of the last code clear. in that period i have:
- added the rear heated seat functionality (original switches were bad, in spite appearing okay. rare i know. but it's a sophisticated switch)
- adding the necessary diode for the A/C compressor (w211 uses one, w203 does not)
- adding the 2-mic version that came in later W211s
- lubricated the rear trunk latch so that it doesn't stick in cold weather, which would trigger an SOS if there was enough snow or ice preventing the trunk from automatically lifting up.


















here is the video to authenticate the screenshots (that were taken after, not during the video, because that would have made it longer)

 

here are the results of quick test after the long-overdue code clear:
















i will work on getting those engine bay pictures soon.

 

here are the pictures of the engine bay. please excuse them if they're not the quality you're expecting, as i still use a blackberry. i would use BB10 if i could, but i can't.

the dried white liquid is HANDA engine shampoo that i wanted to wash off last week but i forgot, so it will have to wait a couple weeks.

the snow on the subframe is a result of our driveway having yet to be ploughed and me using the garage to install a new idler pulley.

i know the rivet nuts holding down the water pipe on the subframe aren't perfect (countrymen will easily notice one being near the edge) but once you drill the hole (i did it at a stupid time; after installing the engine and rad the first time), it's better to use it (no matter how bad it is) instead of putting another hole in your subframe, after all.

• it holds in spite of the hole (for the rivet nut) being slightly open. so i will take that instead of making a new hole.

 

wow, tons of work here! german hot rodding is certainly not for the faint of heart! excellent work, keep us updated pls!