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Anyone know how to get all the plastic shrouds off to change the air filters? I seen some do it once and it looked pretty simple, any help appreciated.
No sweat.
Just gently pull up at the front corners and at the middle along the back.
There are screws on the underside to open up the filter cavities which are easily removed.
I have run 7 MB cars since 1986 and I have used Fram air filters in all of them. Why would I pay the dealer upwards of $110 CDN for filters when I can by Fram CA 8768 two in a box for $21? This part fits all V6 Engines going back to my 2001 SLK320.
When MB changed the 3.5L V-6 to direct injection (Blue Efficiency) in 2012, they also changed the air filter to a single filter, located on the passenger side. Here are some instructions to change/inspect the air filter on the newer models since I couldn't find any online. Time to replace filter is <10 minutes:
1) Remove the plastic front engine cover (part #450) by pulling up on the front. It is clipped on similiar to the previous models.
2) Remove the intake neck by pushing in (part #330) on the tabs.
3) Using an E10 socket, remove both front and rear bolts (red circles) holding the air filter to the engine.
4) After this, you can either:
A) remove the crimp-style hose clamp going from the air filter assembly to the throttle body
B) just leave the intake hose connected. It is flexible enough to get the air filter assemble above the engine to remove the filter (this is what I did since getting new hose clamps was much more work and expense)
5) The filter assembly is held in place at the bottom with 2 rubber tubes on the filter inside clips on the engine. Just grab the back of the filter and pull up. The filter should come up to a 30 degree angle. Do not bend too far if the intake hose is still attached.
6) Remove the 3 T-25 screws on the top of the filter assembly. Once those are removed, the bottom has plastic hinges that will allow the cover to be removed.
I am attaching 2 sets of directions I have dug up. Note: I have yet to do this, so I cant confirm if they are correct. Good luck... and if anybody does it, please post back results and any recommendations. Thanks.
Mercedes Air Filter Directions from source #1 Raise the hood of your E350 and rest it on the support rod. Grasp the front section of the engine cover and lift it straight up. Pry up on each of the sides of the engine cover at the point where the front and rear sections meet. Push back on the metal clip at the center of the rear of the engine cover. Pull the cover off and set it aside. Pull the air hose straight out of the air cleaner housing. The hose pushes into place so you can pull it off easily. Lift the air cleaner assembly off the top of the engine. Flip the air cleaner assembly upside down. Loosen the two T20 Torx screws with a Torx bit and ratchet. The screws will remain in the bottom portion of the assembly. Separate the two sides of the air cleaner assembly. Lift the air filter out of the assembly. Insert the new air filter into the air cleaner assembly. Replace the lower portion of the assembly and tighten the Torx screws with the Torx bit and ratchet. Install the air cleaner assembly onto the mounting area in the engine compartment. Connect the air hose to the air cleaner assembly. Push it into place until it is secure. Push the engine cover back into place until it clicks, locking into position. Close the hood of the car.
Mercedes Air Filter Directions from source #2 From trial and error I learned by pulling from the very front of the engine cover there are two prongs that fit into rubber suction cup items. This piece is hinged and as you lift up it exposes the rear attachments which consist of a center plug and two metal clip types that pull off.
Once this is removed I put it aside and then pulled of the left and right hoses that go to the air system which is the main unit you see on top of the engine, I then used a plastic spatula to pull off the flat end by the rad and put these two hoses aside.
Now comes the main unit which sits on 4 rubber bushings on the side and then fits over the air intake at the rear and has a spring clamp holding it down. Before you do anything there is a 1" rubber hose at the front you must pull back then unclamp the rear hold down by pushing it towards the firewall. Now lifting from the front of the unit pull up and back and off the air intake.
You are now in possession of one of the largest air intakes I have seen. Carefully turn it over on a large blanket and you will see there is a left and right air intake. Using a torx screwdriver evenly un-do all 4 screws so that you do not bend the plastic lid.
Remove the old air cleaner and push in the new air cleaner carefully seating it completely around the housing. Replace the housing and carefully screw down all 4 corners equally so as to close the gap evenly otherwise one of the corners will not fit correctly.
Once this is done on all 4 corners there should be no gap between the 2 plastic pieces where you tighten the torx screws down.
Now with approved Mercedes rubber lubricant, you have to lubricate the large 4" seal that goes over the intake and the 4 rubber stand offs which support the housing.
Tilting the housing down place the air cleaner over the intake so that it slides over the neck then seat the remainder of clamps over the rubber standoffs. If you lubricated everything correctly this will slip and click in place. Now re-attach the rear spring clamp and the 1" hose on the front of the air cleaner.
You can now re-attach the front cover by clipping the rear in place first then snapping the front down, make sure that you also snap the hinge portion correct into place and everything should look perfect flat.
To re-attach the air intake hoses place the flat rad side in first then the round side to the air intake unit pushing it firmly until it properly snaps into place. This piece has a tendency to appear to be in place but is not.
The first procedure is a bit confusing as there are the two air intakes, on on either side and there is the hose that goes from the front of the body to the AIR pump. The second procedure noted that.
When lifting the front over over the AIR pump don't horse it. The posts on the spring hold down clips are not that robust. Just ease it off.
When removing the main cover you don't have to release the clip at the throttle body. Just tip the cover up and ease it to the front of the car. You will have to put it back on by hand.
The rests is straight forward. I don't worry about a lube on the gaskets or rubber clips. Spit works too.
I am out of warranty on both cars so I am not buying into the MANN filters are the only filters if I can't get them on line. Both cars are running Fram Extraguards which I get on line.
Don't plan to change my 2010's air filter, but did want to check them. Why does everything on an MB have to be so complicated?
Appears to me that after you get the front half of engine cover off, you have to be very careful with different parts and use special (Torx) tools and some kind of MB sealant for gaskets.
You do not need any sealants if my experience with the M112 and M272 engines is any indicatior.
The air cleaner flanges are the seals.
Unless you are a purist you can buy Fram filters CA8768 very inexpensively or buy the Mann OEM C 3698/3-2 parts on line cheaper than the dealer.
Once the cover is off it is not complicated. As you noted it takes a TORX driver and that is all to open the air boxes up so if you go that far spend the money and change them. Just pay attention to how the thing comes apart and how the filters go in.
When MB changed the 3.5L V-6 to direct injection (Blue Efficiency) in 2012, they also changed the air filter to a single filter, located on the passenger side. Here are some instructions to change/inspect the air filter on the newer models since I couldn't find any online. Time to replace filter is <10 minutes:
1) Remove the plastic front engine cover (part #450) by pulling up on the front. It is clipped on similiar to the previous models.
2) Remove the intake neck by pushing in (part #330) on the tabs.
3) Using an E10 socket, remove both front and rear bolts (red circles) holding the air filter to the engine.
4) After this, you can either:
A) remove the crimp-style hose clamp going from the air filter assembly to the throttle body
B) just leave the intake hose connected. It is flexible enough to get the air filter assemble above the engine to remove the filter (this is what I did since getting new hose clamps was much more work and expense)
5) The filter assembly is held in place at the bottom with 2 rubber tubes on the filter inside clips on the engine. Just grab the back of the filter and pull up. The filter should come up to a 30 degree angle. Do not bend too far if the intake hose is still attached.
6) Remove the 3 T-25 screws on the top of the filter assembly. Once those are removed, the bottom has plastic hinges that will allow the cover to be removed.
When MB changed the 3.5L V-6 to direct injection (Blue Efficiency) in 2012, they also changed the air filter to a single filter, located on the passenger side. Here are some instructions to change/inspect the air filter on the newer models since I couldn't find any online. Time to replace filter is <10 minutes:
1) Remove the plastic front engine cover (part #450) by pulling up on the front. It is clipped on similiar to the previous models.
2) Remove the intake neck by pushing in (part #330) on the tabs.
3) Using an E10 socket, remove both front and rear bolts (red circles) holding the air filter to the engine.
4) After this, you can either:
A) remove the crimp-style hose clamp going from the air filter assembly to the throttle body
B) just leave the intake hose connected. It is flexible enough to get the air filter assemble above the engine to remove the filter (this is what I did since getting new hose clamps was much more work and expense)
5) The filter assembly is held in place at the bottom with 2 rubber tubes on the filter inside clips on the engine. Just grab the back of the filter and pull up. The filter should come up to a 30 degree angle. Do not bend too far if the intake hose is still attached.
6) Remove the 3 T-25 screws on the top of the filter assembly. Once those are removed, the bottom has plastic hinges that will allow the cover to be removed.
Thx. Step 4b Cleared it up for me. Neversaw that type of clamp before.
12-08-2014, 01:02 AM
