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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 08:43 PM
  #51  
RNBRAD's Avatar
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W211 E320 & W212 E550
Originally Posted by CEB
Oh crap. Regardless of the forum, there are always the Royal Poopie and amSOIL fanbois.

Oil is very simple. All major car manufacturers spend lots of time and money determining the type of oil suitable for their cars. Those oils will carry the certification on the label. The use of a "non-certified" oil will cause the dealer to refuse warranty service on lubrication related failures.

RP and amSOIL are not certified by ANY manufacturers and it is unlikely that they meet any of the specs.

Europe has used 30k km (roughly 18k miles) or three year oil change intervals since the mid 90's.

Follow the car manufacturer's oil change intervals and the required approved fluids and you will not have a lubrication related issues. Using non-approved fluids is a crap shoot.
There is a reason most of Amsoil line-up does not have an API certification. Does not make it a substandard product to an API certified product. It's just that API is a standard more geared towards petroleum products versus a true synthetic. They don't have a certification geared for the true synthetics, probably cause it's not worth developing, and no one will pay their price they want for testing the true synthetics and Amsoil doesn't want to limit their products capabilities to jump through API's hoops. Yes I said "limit" Amsoil's capabilities, do your research. So it's not a fair playing field for Amsoil. But as far as I'm concerned, Amsoil is the standard, the Tucker of the car manufacturers, it's an oil by which all others should be measured.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 09:46 PM
  #52  
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2008 CLK63 AMG Black Series
Originally Posted by RNBRAD
Yes, 2 reasons you change oil, to replenish your additive package and dispose of the contiminants.
Agreed. That reminded me of something else I read (the piles of papers are more than I can retain in my brain LOL), once oil is in an engine, some additives breakdown when exposed to air and moisture, and the contaminant that are still left in the oil. Short and sweet side note for anyone else considering it (doubt it but), don't use one of those bottles that promises to restore the additives in your old oil.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 10:22 PM
  #53  
RNBRAD's Avatar
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W211 E320 & W212 E550
Originally Posted by Jeff M
Agreed. That reminded me of something else I read (the piles of papers are more than I can retain in my brain LOL), once oil is in an engine, some additives breakdown when exposed to air and moisture, and the contaminant that are still left in the oil. Short and sweet side note for anyone else considering it (doubt it but), don't use one of those bottles that promises to restore the additives in your old oil.
Yea, certain chemicals in the additive package as well as occuring natural in the oil (mainly solvent refined oil) will break down when exposed to oxygen and moisture. Anti oxidents are added to oil to prevent this but those don't last forever either. This is one reason true synthetic oils are so great and last longer cause of their 100% purity. Hydrocrakcer refining has improved this tremendously making petroleum almost as pure as filtered Evian water but nothing is as pure as "true" synthetic, cause it only has what you put in it, not what dinosoar dung has added.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 11:13 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by RNBRAD
Yea, certain chemicals in the additive package as well as occuring natural in the oil (mainly solvent refined oil) will break down when exposed to oxygen and moisture. Anti oxidents are added to oil to prevent this but those don't last forever either. This is one reason true synthetic oils are so great and last longer cause of their 100% purity. Hydrocrakcer refining has improved this tremendously making petroleum almost as pure as filtered Evian water but nothing is as pure as "true" synthetic, cause it only has what you put in it, not what dinosoar dung has added.
More excellent points, and with more detail . If I try detail, I end up rambling mini-novels that are to long of a read that and I don't know it all!

Touching on the pure and real or not synthetic, which I am more impressed here how well it was contained, explained, and with great restrain as well .

Some talks on Mobil's site about what is their synthetic made of. Well, it was too hot of a subject (like a few here that worked long and hard to narrow the synthetic, not really synthetic cross-hairs) and would open a can of worms on forums, too little info is a very bad thing, too much info that most people don't understand leads to too many assumptions that make a mess that can last years clearing out of every web site it was "I heard" from and to . So, back to the find, and first up I say I give them chemists the respect they deserve (as well the articles in mags that were as trusted), so I trust them more than the advertisements, that Mobil synthetic will be a blend of whatever is needed for each oil version they offer, based on them knowing for a fact what blend will work best! Will there new 0W50 need a higher level of PAO, or Esters/non-PAO synthetics to pick from such as diesters, polyolesters, alklylated napthlenes, alkyklated benzenes, this is all up to them, and it will be tested, and certified for what engines it can go in/should go in. Besides, their blends are a bit of their trade secrets .

Last edited by Jeff M; Oct 12, 2011 at 11:38 AM.
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