E vs S mode ?
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,694
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From: Dallas-Ft.Worth,TX
2016 E350 Sport
Not the case in my E550, No Airmatic, so no change in suspension settings.
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Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 151
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From: Connecticut
2013 E550 Sedan, 2005 E500 4matic Wagon
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Joined: Jun 2017
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2020 GLS450 (wife) / 2024 Ford Bronco (mine) / 2014 VW Tiquan (son)
When I hear hard shifts, I think a few likely things, none of which are related to the S mode.
1. reset the throttle position sensor to erase the learnt driving habits. Do this by pressing the gas peddle down all the way to the floor, then turn car to the point where the HVAC starts up (the last point before starting the engine), and keep holding your foot on the gas for about a minute, then turn car off and remove foot. Let it sit for a few minutes. The TPS should be reset back to factory.
2. Transmission fluid condition. If you can’t confirm when and where the fluid was changed, go have it flushed and changed along with a new filter. Maybe $400ish via an indi. Hard shifts can happen with dirty fluid in the shift solenoids inside the gear box.
3. Mounts. 1st and 2nd are high torque gears, meaning the most pressure on the one transmission mount and the two engine mounts. I would start with the transmission mount (easy). But if me, I’d bite the bullet and do all three at the same time and essentially reset their wear clocks. But if a 4Matic, it gets pricey as the motor mounts are tough to get out. RWD is much easier.
You would certainly be wise to also get the rear differential gear oil replaced too regardless if 4Matic or RWD. The 4Matic is a rear bias setup, fixed, and the rear takes the brunt of the abuse.
that’s a lot I’ve thrown at you. But it’s all just maintenance items you’ll need to do anyway if you plan on having the car for awhile. Just comes with the 212 territory. Start with the TPS reset first. If that doesn’t fix it, then you’ll know it’s probably the fluid and potentially the mount(s).
the #1 mistake in owning a MB is to assume the worst at first. That’s when it gets really expensive. Always start with the maintenance items and typical wear items first.
1. reset the throttle position sensor to erase the learnt driving habits. Do this by pressing the gas peddle down all the way to the floor, then turn car to the point where the HVAC starts up (the last point before starting the engine), and keep holding your foot on the gas for about a minute, then turn car off and remove foot. Let it sit for a few minutes. The TPS should be reset back to factory.
2. Transmission fluid condition. If you can’t confirm when and where the fluid was changed, go have it flushed and changed along with a new filter. Maybe $400ish via an indi. Hard shifts can happen with dirty fluid in the shift solenoids inside the gear box.
3. Mounts. 1st and 2nd are high torque gears, meaning the most pressure on the one transmission mount and the two engine mounts. I would start with the transmission mount (easy). But if me, I’d bite the bullet and do all three at the same time and essentially reset their wear clocks. But if a 4Matic, it gets pricey as the motor mounts are tough to get out. RWD is much easier.
You would certainly be wise to also get the rear differential gear oil replaced too regardless if 4Matic or RWD. The 4Matic is a rear bias setup, fixed, and the rear takes the brunt of the abuse.
that’s a lot I’ve thrown at you. But it’s all just maintenance items you’ll need to do anyway if you plan on having the car for awhile. Just comes with the 212 territory. Start with the TPS reset first. If that doesn’t fix it, then you’ll know it’s probably the fluid and potentially the mount(s).
the #1 mistake in owning a MB is to assume the worst at first. That’s when it gets really expensive. Always start with the maintenance items and typical wear items first.
MBWorld Fanatic!





Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,694
Likes: 1,828
From: Dallas-Ft.Worth,TX
2016 E350 Sport





