I recently sold my 2003 E320 with over 300,000 miles on it. In my opinion, the reason that this car was still reliable was because I followed the manufacturer's maintenance schedule. The car was expensive to maintain, but it was worth it to me and I followed up by buying another Mercedes E-class based on my experience.

 

Correct. Contrary to popular belief, the maintenance schedule was devised to assure longevity of your car.

 

I have no problem with the schedule for fluids, filters, etc. - it's just prices for all the unnecessary things in these prepackaged services. Take the battery test for example. I perform my own. Car starts - test passed. When you take a car to other maintenance shops for an oil change, they perform free inspections of brakes, tire tread, belt condition, etc. so that they can suggest additional work for you to pay them for. But MB wants you to pay for their time to inspect your car.

 

You can, of course, pick and choose what services you want the dealer to do and which ones you want to do yourself. as long as they get done (and somehow documented) then you're fine.

 

A B service is basically an oil change and an air filter they want $360 for at the dealer. Brake fluid is due at the same time (every 2 years) and they want $120 for that. So you're saying pay for the oil change ($125) and brake fluid service ($120) and change the cabin filter myself ($30, which I have no problem doing) while keeping all needed documentation. I get that - that's what I've done with my other cars. What about all these inspections, leak checks, etc. that are part of the 'required' service?

 

If I scrimped and saved for a $20k honda, i can see worrying about an extra $2k in maintenance over 4 to 5 years... However ...

I believe the op paid about $65k+ for his ride and speaking only for myself, I have more nightmares over exorbitant mb non warrantied costs (thousands) than losing $250 for an oil change and brake fluid change every year

 

why is this thread still going?

 

If you feel that you are competent to do them yourself, then do them and annotate that in the log book. You can also find an indy mechanic to do those checks for you.

Many of those checks are "early warning" checks to find issues early or to keep you from being stranded.

 

Because we were hoping that you would post something of significance and that we would have another opportunity to see your signature line.

 

Thanks for the detailed reply. I actually kept the filters I pulled so far and wrote the date and mileage on top of the boxes. I also bought the filters from the dealer so I have invoices for them.

Like I wrote, an engine or brake failure is not why I bought the extended warranty, I'm far more concerned with the Distronic crapping out or the air chambers in the Dynamic seat.

 

Again, it's not [just] about the money. It's about convenience. For me it's far easier to suck the oil out in my driveway on a lazy Sunday than trying to schedule an appointment, drop the car off in the morning, get a loaner, get back to the dealer in the afternoon and pick up my car. And to pay extra for all this just makes no economic sense. FWIW I prefer to spend my money and time on ice time with my kids instead of unnecessary dealer visits.

 

GREG - either you follow the maintenance schedule or you do not very simple

we got your point you beating a dead horse here man you could have change the fluid as the time you spent answering and debating...

it very simple if you think you need it you do it if you think not then do not but to argue everyone point is pointless.

 

not many of my posts are that significant


but damn this thread is DONE

 

Yep. Now ALL your posts are insignificant - an oversaturated photo of a car and a little black x.....

 

oversaturation? man: CEB, take the pill man okay?


art is quite subjective: so don't make an **** of yourself okay?


just calm down and go smoke your meds

 

I don't live in Colorado any more

 

I'm not debating. I only had one concern: is there any true and real reason for a brake fluid flush besides that MBUSA requires it after 7 months? From the responses it seems like there isn't.

I wasn't interested in "saving money somewhere else", I wasn't interested in "doing it for the warranty". I was only interested in whether cranking open 4 bleeder valves and pushing some liquid through the hoses would improve the longevity of the vehicle. And the clear answer is no, it won't.

 

I agree, but can you bring back that last Kate pic. Without it, I have less incentive to check for new posts.

 

My Indy says 2 years is best over mileage. I drive 18k a year and now have 73k . No problems. Last e class I had went 155k changing brake fluid every 24 mos.

 

They actually sell litmus strips that all you do is dip the tip into the reservoir and it will show you if your brake fluid is good or not. I was changing mine as the dealer recommended until I found that I was wasting my money. I have a 3 year old Bentley with 12K miles on it and the fluid was dark purple (which indicated the fluid was bad). I have a 9 year old CL 600 with 3K miles and the litmus paper showed it was still good. So, heat exchange is where the problems arise. Excessive temps not miles wears out the fluid. You can burn through brake fluid as fast as 10K miles if your a hell raiser but if your not then 20K miles might not be bad. Your mileage is based on highway miles so unless you have had to have had to replace your brake pads, more than likely your fluid is still good. Use the litmus paper and most reputable repair facilities will do the test for you for free. The Mercedes dealers want to do it as part of a 900.00 service every two years whether you need it or not.

 

Since MB has been around, late 1880's-present they have stated that preventive maintenance (PM) is what it is, (preventive).

They state PM performed by a professional for (performance-MB mechanic) because of the day to day documenting of tests performed before and after PM on like type autos decade after decade.

This is basically why IMO schedules should be utilized, a basic standard used for performing maintenance, whether it be dealer, independent, or ones self, usually historically accurate, schedules will assist.

All PM should be performed by someone that knows the vehicle or vehicles being worked on well (familiarity-MB mechanic) this can prevent-resolve most issues before they occur or at least in a timely manner.

No matter who does it-PM always proves a fruitful ROI, saving dollars and life, especially when you drive this much annually, I would just change it-you apparently want to do it anyway.

 

Again, let me express how easy it is to just get a litmus test done for free. Most high end wheel and tire stores have the test and will do it for free. In two seconds you get an immediate answer. If it needs changing have it changed if it doesn't don't waste your time and money. PM is usually a waste of resources, time and money. Always, follow the guidelines but don't just arbitrarily do them just because the book says to. So, basically what I am saying is one size doesn't fit all.
One more thing, I have seen people do all the PM and RM and still have nothing but TROUBLE. MB has been around since 1880 but Lexus has only been around since 1990 and they have been able to keep repair cost to almost, "0". So, just because they have been around that long doesn't mean they have all the right answers.

 

IMHO that is the right answer. I've 52K on a 2014 ML350 Bluetec delivered in Feb or March of 14 and I've paid for the pre paid service until 50K came around. The 20k change of brake fluid make little to no sense for a person who puts over 45K a year on a car. I seriously doubt when 60K comes up in a few months whether I'll have the brake fluid changed. Pre Paid maint makes no sense for someone who drives their cars waaay over 20K a year. Waste of money big time and frankly.......I have some doubt if they changed the fluid at 20K and 40K. It would make NO sense to do so. Waste of time and money.

 

BINGO!!!!!!!!!!!!! Right answer!!! DING DING DING !!!! Also, don't forget heat transference cause moisture build up. Moisture is what destroys brake fluid, it boils, it over heats, it retains moisture and it is toast. Like I said, one size doesn't fit all.

 

2yrs no matter the mileage is the recommended NORM for brake flush. However NON MB cars, I bet most cars for the life of them never have a flush. I had a Conductor plate go out in my AMG at 63k miles, (known issue) and MB said they would not cover, would not loyalty discount or cover, due to A. only owning 2 MB's so far and B. the transmission was not flushed at 40k. Arguing aside they didnt do tranny flushes back then. But. Point is whenever you do a service on your car in your garage, try to use always MB parts, and then work with a service advisor to document in their system when it was done and keep a log. I too change my oil about every 5k in my AMG, and the E350 about 8k and then let the hit it whenever the light says got to them for their free service change.

As long as OEM parts and fluids are used, all should be fine, but even out of warranty MB will cover things if they were used for service for the vehicle. So for the pain it might be worth just getting them to do certain things that could cost a penny down the road. Catch them at a sale price. (The 20k mileage for brake is based on 10k a year, 2yrs) so yours doesn't need it yet.


After warranty , do all the work yourself unless on sale. My mB charges $100 for Oil change in a E63, so only 30 or so more than what I could buy at Walmart, so worth that for me not to get dirty. But, normal price NOT worth it. Do what makes sense to you, you will likely not have the car for 5 years anyway, and by 20k mils all the kinks should be worked out of it away. Hope all this helps