The driver's side fuse for the Airscarf system in my 2011 E350 cabriolet keeps blowing as of past several days. Replaced it last night and it blew as soon as I turned the Airscarf on for the driver's side. Car has 23K miles, we purchased it with CPO warranty 6 months ago.


Anyone else with this problem? Going to take it to dealer unless anyone knows a simple fix.


Thanks

 

Have you found a solution?

Also, which one is the fuse for airscarf? I can't find it in any of the diagrams.

 

Same does anyone know which fuse or relay this could be please ?

 

On mine, the fuse was still in tact. Is was the wires going from the Airscarf to the fuse box that were melted. I think they were fuses 12 and/or 82 located in the trunk.

 

The wires that were melted were they visible near the fuse box or was it the wiring loom ? My airscarf comes on then goes off after 5/10 seconds so unsure if the same issue very frustrating

 

the fuse is located in the drivers side dashboard. my fuse was blown I have replaced it. Now the passenger side works fine but as soon as I use the drivers side the fuse blows again

 

Ok, so I've seen lots of threads on the airscarf not working on one side of the car. I have a 2011 E350 Cab and that happened a while ago. I followed someone's advice to jiggle the wires under the seat and got the drivers side working again, so some kind of loose fitting. Or so I thought. A few months later the same thing happened. But this time both side's airscarfs didn't work. Checked the fuse on the driver's side between the console and the door and this time the 20A fuse had blown. Replaced the fuse and passenger side worked fine again. As I turned on the driver's side I heard a 'pop' and the fuse blew.

I researched and found out the plug and adapter under the seat sometimes overheats and the wires touch and short out as a result. In my case I guessed it was the heater pair (12 gauge black and brown pair), since that's the greatest load. I couldn't get the wiring adapter/connector apart (it had fused together) so I snipped off the black wire on both sides and connected them via a new black connecting wire using insulated automotive connectors (get from any auto store). It doesn't matter that the brown wire is still shorting with the black wire in the connector now since the connector's black wires are not attached to anything.

Tested it out and hey presto, all fixed for a bit of wire and four connectors. That's my story. Hope it's yours as I have heard of controllers and the like being replaced. That OEM connector has flimsy metal inside that easily gets hot. My bypass wire has proper connectors that won't burn out.

Picture showing the full bypass wire. I will put a 'cap' on the end of the now unused cut black wires coming out of the OEM connector.

This shows the original black wire cut near the connector and one end of the new bypass wire with blue auto connectors.

This is a closer look at the OEM connector.