10.25 inch android headunit installed
#1776
MBWorld Fanatic!
So if anyone else can help I would really appreciate it. Attached is my about device i should've posted earlier.
Last edited by aznmode; 01-18-2023 at 04:43 PM.
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Aussie_E350_Wag (01-18-2023)
#1780
MBWorld Fanatic!
Found this other thread in 2019 on upgrading the square screens.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...01-04-a-4.html
#1781
Newbie
Join Date: May 2023
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Mercedes Benz e250, w212 mk 2011
Fakra cables
i want to do the same, replace chinese gps antena with factory one.
Whitch fakra connector do I need for 2011 W212 (FAKRA C)?
Last edited by Zraic; 05-29-2023 at 03:48 AM.
#1782
Finally got my COMAND to show up. Here's what the manufacturer said to do. Since my unit is an old unit (2010), I had to splice two wires and connect them (see photo below).
Red and yellow wires. (Video and 12V)
Finally...
Thanks for everyone's input and help. Next up, trying to get my knob to scroll through the apps and the aux audio to work with the music apps.
Red and yellow wires. (Video and 12V)
Finally...
Thanks for everyone's input and help. Next up, trying to get my knob to scroll through the apps and the aux audio to work with the music apps.
Hey I know it's been a while but could you help me with the knob issue?
#1783
Junior Member
I've had my Android Unit installed for like 2 years now in my wife's GLK350 and everything works, but one thing has irked me since the installation. The Bluetooth and Z-link connect and Android Auto works with everything except phone calls. Whenever I get a call it goes to the original blue phone screen. Whenever I make a call it goes to the blue phone screen. Sometimes I can see a caller's face and number show in Android Auto before it switches over to the blue phone screen. Is there some setting to fix this? It bothers me because I know exactly how Android Auto works in my C and CLK class that both have pioneer systems. Any ideas?
#1784
Junior Member
I've had my Android Unit installed for like 2 years now in my wife's GLK350 and everything works, but one thing has irked me since the installation. The Bluetooth and Z-link connect and Android Auto works with everything except phone calls. Whenever I get a call it goes to the original blue phone screen. Whenever I make a call it goes to the blue phone screen. Sometimes I can see a caller's face and number show in Android Auto before it switches over to the blue phone screen. Is there some setting to fix this? It bothers me because I know exactly how Android Auto works in my C and CLK class that both have pioneer systems. Any ideas?
#1786
Junior Member
personally used roadtop. It’s pretty much OEM quality.
make sure you (instead of plugging in the aux 3.5mm audio cable) enable the internal audio aux which i think provides a superior setup (plus no disassembly of the console). This applies at least to ntg 4.5 and up I believe.
if anyone finds a android screen or carplay decoder that can connect using the factory bluetooth then in theory you can get left side steering wheel control of forward/rewind and song info on the mfd display. If you do please let me know.
This may in theory allow for some additional quality due to surround/dts or whatever (I’m not fully sure).
make sure you (instead of plugging in the aux 3.5mm audio cable) enable the internal audio aux which i think provides a superior setup (plus no disassembly of the console). This applies at least to ntg 4.5 and up I believe.
if anyone finds a android screen or carplay decoder that can connect using the factory bluetooth then in theory you can get left side steering wheel control of forward/rewind and song info on the mfd display. If you do please let me know.
This may in theory allow for some additional quality due to surround/dts or whatever (I’m not fully sure).
The following users liked this post:
DubVBenz (01-30-2024)
#1787
personally used roadtop. It’s pretty much OEM quality.
make sure you (instead of plugging in the aux 3.5mm audio cable) enable the internal audio aux which i think provides a superior setup (plus no disassembly of the console). This applies at least to ntg 4.5 and up I believe.
if anyone finds a android screen or carplay decoder that can connect using the factory bluetooth then in theory you can get left side steering wheel control of forward/rewind and song info on the mfd display. If you do please let me know.
This may in theory allow for some additional quality due to surround/dts or whatever (I’m not fully sure).
make sure you (instead of plugging in the aux 3.5mm audio cable) enable the internal audio aux which i think provides a superior setup (plus no disassembly of the console). This applies at least to ntg 4.5 and up I believe.
if anyone finds a android screen or carplay decoder that can connect using the factory bluetooth then in theory you can get left side steering wheel control of forward/rewind and song info on the mfd display. If you do please let me know.
This may in theory allow for some additional quality due to surround/dts or whatever (I’m not fully sure).
My unit is not a road top, but I did notice on the Android connector suppled with the unit that plugs into the NTG , it has a short 3.5mm cable labled aux in. I tried to use that instead of routing the aux cable to the center console but that didn't work.
Any thoughts?
#1788
MBWorld Fanatic!
Hey, I think he means media sources to the COMAND unit . You know ,we have a couple of choices to chose from : USB , Bluetooth Audio, AUX in the related menu . In that menu , AUX must be enabled . As I recall, it must be at the bottom of the displ
#1789
This is the audi in cable that is directly pinned into the android harness. But it doesn't work....
#1790
Junior Member
look here
https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...ml#post8296151
short answer is it’s in the engineering menu. Audio aux in is a toggle. If i get time i’ll take a pic. The toggle is there as not all cars have an aux in jack or a AMI port - some have nothing.
once you do that, you unplug the 3.5mm aux wire and you can tape it up (preferably with RF blocking tape).. then you can delete the wire sticking into your console or globebox that plugs into the original car’s aux in. If you leave it plugged in and also enable the internal aux in as above it will create a feedback loop and the buzzing sound that has been reported.
https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...ml#post8296151
short answer is it’s in the engineering menu. Audio aux in is a toggle. If i get time i’ll take a pic. The toggle is there as not all cars have an aux in jack or a AMI port - some have nothing.
once you do that, you unplug the 3.5mm aux wire and you can tape it up (preferably with RF blocking tape).. then you can delete the wire sticking into your console or globebox that plugs into the original car’s aux in. If you leave it plugged in and also enable the internal aux in as above it will create a feedback loop and the buzzing sound that has been reported.
Glad this thread is still alive! So what do you mean by enabling the internal audio aux? I have a 2013 W212, I already have AUX enabled, and I can only get my 10.33" Android unit to play audio through the aux cord and had to route it to the center console and use the AMI port. AND, I get static!! SUCKS! I am desperately looking for a fix for this. Tried a ground loop isolater for the 3.5mm aux.. didn't work.
My unit is not a road top, but I did notice on the Android connector suppled with the unit that plugs into the NTG , it has a short 3.5mm cable labled aux in. I tried to use that instead of routing the aux cable to the center console but that didn't work.
Any thoughts?
My unit is not a road top, but I did notice on the Android connector suppled with the unit that plugs into the NTG , it has a short 3.5mm cable labled aux in. I tried to use that instead of routing the aux cable to the center console but that didn't work.
Any thoughts?
#1791
look here
https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...ml#post8296151
short answer is it’s in the engineering menu. Audio aux in is a toggle. If i get time i’ll take a pic. The toggle is there as not all cars have an aux in jack or a AMI port - some have nothing.
once you do that, you unplug the 3.5mm aux wire and you can tape it up (preferably with RF blocking tape).. then you can delete the wire sticking into your console or globebox that plugs into the original car’s aux in. If you leave it plugged in and also enable the internal aux in as above it will create a feedback loop and the buzzing sound that has been reported.
https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...ml#post8296151
short answer is it’s in the engineering menu. Audio aux in is a toggle. If i get time i’ll take a pic. The toggle is there as not all cars have an aux in jack or a AMI port - some have nothing.
once you do that, you unplug the 3.5mm aux wire and you can tape it up (preferably with RF blocking tape).. then you can delete the wire sticking into your console or globebox that plugs into the original car’s aux in. If you leave it plugged in and also enable the internal aux in as above it will create a feedback loop and the buzzing sound that has been reported.
#1792
Junior Member
interesting….
when i turned it on there was a procedure here on mbworld and it involved turning the MOST server off or the amp off. Then on again. Then restarting the COMAND… will look at my menu this weekend and or try to find that… also when I finally got it working i had nothing plugged into the 3.5mm female socket in the actual wiring harness.
i have a NTG 4.7 2014 (facelift) W212. The year and version may also play.
when i turned it on there was a procedure here on mbworld and it involved turning the MOST server off or the amp off. Then on again. Then restarting the COMAND… will look at my menu this weekend and or try to find that… also when I finally got it working i had nothing plugged into the 3.5mm female socket in the actual wiring harness.
i have a NTG 4.7 2014 (facelift) W212. The year and version may also play.
So here is a picture of my HU Parameter in my Engineering menu. See that Audio Aux shows "on". Always has. And I have the AMI plug in the center console. If I don't use the aux cable from the Android and route all the way to the aux input on the ami in the center console, I get no sound. And I do get that feedback noise!!! Also, I do have the Harmon Kardon amp.
#1793
I did read something about that on the forum. Didn't quite know if that was to solve my problem, but I guess it can't hurt. I will try resetting the MOST and AUX with the new Android harness plugged in but not the aux cable. See what happens....
#1794
Little update:
I went into the engineering menu and disabled MOST, disabled aux, re-enabled aux, reenabled MOST, and messed around with various combos of that.
When I went and fire the system back up, I no longer got sound through the aux cable in the center console AMI port. So I pulled that sucker out and plugged in into the short 3.5mm aux in on the back of the Andoid connector which plugs in the back of the NTG, and it works. So, no longer need to use the center console. I also don't notice the static/feedback as much but didn't get a chance to really drive around and see if any engine noise is a part of that.
So I am semi-satisfied for now... no AMI port center console wire clutter, sound seems okay for now. Sure would be nice if they could splice into the optical cable that send the signal to the amp instead of using 3.5mm aux as the sound quality would be much better at volume. Now i have to really play with the two different volume levels to find that sweet spot where the bass doesn't overwhelm.
I went into the engineering menu and disabled MOST, disabled aux, re-enabled aux, reenabled MOST, and messed around with various combos of that.
When I went and fire the system back up, I no longer got sound through the aux cable in the center console AMI port. So I pulled that sucker out and plugged in into the short 3.5mm aux in on the back of the Andoid connector which plugs in the back of the NTG, and it works. So, no longer need to use the center console. I also don't notice the static/feedback as much but didn't get a chance to really drive around and see if any engine noise is a part of that.
So I am semi-satisfied for now... no AMI port center console wire clutter, sound seems okay for now. Sure would be nice if they could splice into the optical cable that send the signal to the amp instead of using 3.5mm aux as the sound quality would be much better at volume. Now i have to really play with the two different volume levels to find that sweet spot where the bass doesn't overwhelm.
#1796
Senior Member
Little update:
I went into the engineering menu and disabled MOST, disabled aux, re-enabled aux, reenabled MOST, and messed around with various combos of that.
When I went and fire the system back up, I no longer got sound through the aux cable in the center console AMI port. So I pulled that sucker out and plugged in into the short 3.5mm aux in on the back of the Andoid connector which plugs in the back of the NTG, and it works. So, no longer need to use the center console. I also don't notice the static/feedback as much but didn't get a chance to really drive around and see if any engine noise is a part of that.
So I am semi-satisfied for now... no AMI port center console wire clutter, sound seems okay for now. Sure would be nice if they could splice into the optical cable that send the signal to the amp instead of using 3.5mm aux as the sound quality would be much better at volume. Now i have to really play with the two different volume levels to find that sweet spot where the bass doesn't overwhelm.
I went into the engineering menu and disabled MOST, disabled aux, re-enabled aux, reenabled MOST, and messed around with various combos of that.
When I went and fire the system back up, I no longer got sound through the aux cable in the center console AMI port. So I pulled that sucker out and plugged in into the short 3.5mm aux in on the back of the Andoid connector which plugs in the back of the NTG, and it works. So, no longer need to use the center console. I also don't notice the static/feedback as much but didn't get a chance to really drive around and see if any engine noise is a part of that.
So I am semi-satisfied for now... no AMI port center console wire clutter, sound seems okay for now. Sure would be nice if they could splice into the optical cable that send the signal to the amp instead of using 3.5mm aux as the sound quality would be much better at volume. Now i have to really play with the two different volume levels to find that sweet spot where the bass doesn't overwhelm.
#1798
MBWorld Fanatic!
I would recommend the gps antenna at least. Install google maps or waze as back up on the screen incase your phones gps goes out of whack during android auto or car play which relies on your phone gps. Then you can use those apps on the screen which will require the gps antenna.
#1799
Jap car
Has anyone managed to fit one of these to a Japanese model please?
I had one and I got no sound regardless of what aux setup I had and there was no NTG passthrough. Some people told me I needed a UK command unit to make it work and I have just finished switching out the JAP unit for a UK one and coded it to the car but the Android unit still wont make a sound or passthrough NTG.
Wondering if its a problem with the unit or the car =/
I had one and I got no sound regardless of what aux setup I had and there was no NTG passthrough. Some people told me I needed a UK command unit to make it work and I have just finished switching out the JAP unit for a UK one and coded it to the car but the Android unit still wont make a sound or passthrough NTG.
Wondering if its a problem with the unit or the car =/
#1800
My unit would not work without the GPS antenna sitting on the front dash. I had take the unit apart and install it before I figured this out. It would work sporadically on a sunny day but not at all if there was any cover.