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Most "warped" rotors are not warped
Originally Posted by Oda112
(Post 7349954)
Update:
Front Brembo rotors and pads are not a suitable replacement for the W212 E550 since they start shaking again after awhile, in my case it was around 4k miles. We had to drive today and I could definitely feel and see the steering wheel shake under light braking, the worst feeling would be around 40 to 30 mph. I've also looked at the rotors themselves and there seems to be some sort of heat related little dots on their surface .I will be returning them to Autozone and try and figure out what to get next. |
Originally Posted by VegasE
(Post 7350343)
Truly warped rotors are very rare. What actually happens is that material gets fused to the rotors under heat, causes an uneven surface, and the shimmy. The dots are deposits from the braking process that fused to the rotor. I'd turn the rotors to get rid of the deposits and try a different brand of pad.
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Not a 550 but the basics are the same. I used R1 concepts and have been happy. There is nothing special about these brake systems, they are virtually the same as most other cars.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...2011-e350.html I also saw something about resurfacing drilled rotors. This is usually not feasible as it can chip the surfacing at the holes. Factory drilled rotors are often cast with the holes which are given a slight chamfer at the top. Aftermarket are often just drilled without a chamfer. Either way the grinding surface can nip at the surfacing at the holes and cause some damage. Just me, but other than looking nice I don't have a lot of use for drilled rotors on the street, thus my change to solid rotors on my car. |
Front rotors are around $100 each and the set of pads is around $70 for OEM parts if you order online. I have been told the brakes on the Mercedes are extremely easy to work on. It's sad that MB charges $1000 ($700 Labor).
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Originally Posted by VegasE
(Post 7350343)
Truly warped rotors are very rare. What actually happens is that material gets fused to the rotors under heat, causes an uneven surface, and the shimmy. The dots are deposits from the braking process that fused to the rotor. I'd turn the rotors to get rid of the deposits and try a different brand of pad.
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Seemed like the problem was with the zimmerman rotors , i have had that back in the days with brand new rotors and pads that started squeeking and vibrating after maybe a week of driving.
went with centric premium rotors and duralast pads(more expensive ones from autozone) and everything is smooth for almost 2 years. p.s. i wish i woulda went with pagid or textar pads (which are oem) but duralast keeps it cool and dust free so maybe next time. |
$1,200 here to replace them under CPO warranty, meaning I complained on a 2013 that I bought CPO when I drove it home, they said it would go away, it didn't, they replaced them. Didn't have to pay but consistent with what others posted.
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Just got a quote from a local, respected indy. They prefer to use parts from their distributor which would mean the OEM equivalent (same manufacturer, just not from MB dealer). When I asked about using other pads/rotors, they said they prefer not to - they stand behind parts from their distributor but any issues with parts I purchase leaves me stuck between them and the vendor. At any rate, here is their pricing for my 2011 E550:
Front: $115 pads $260 rotors $8 sensor $95 labor $478 plus taxes for total Rear: $70 pads $230 rotors $8 sensor $95 labor $403 plus taxes for total |
Originally Posted by thefisch
(Post 7368006)
Just got a quote from a local, respected indy. They prefer to use parts from their distributor which would mean the OEM equivalent (same manufacturer, just not from MB dealer). When I asked about using other pads/rotors, they said they prefer not to - they stand behind parts from their distributor but any issues with parts I purchase leaves me stuck between them and the vendor. At any rate, here is their pricing for my 2011 E550:
Front: $115 pads $260 rotors $8 sensor $95 labor $478 plus taxes for total Rear: $70 pads $230 rotors $8 sensor $95 labor $403 plus taxes for total |
Originally Posted by Arrie
(Post 7368023)
Do you think they will stand behind the parts and labor better than MB itself after you bring the car back after 10000 miles with warped rotors that are OEM parts? |
Originally Posted by thefisch
(Post 7368027)
My expectation of a dealer or an Indy handling warped rotors are low after a few thousand miles have paased. Too easy to blame the driver. I'd prefer to try non OEM rotors that other have had good results with.
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MY 2014, E550 w/ 53,000. When I bought it the rotors and pads were new, 7,000 miles and I'm currently dealing with the shudder issues. Changing to EBC yellow and solid rotors.
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I replaced all rotors and pads roughly 12k miles ago with genuine MB parts. Drilled rotors in front. I did this when the car was at about 25k mikes shortly after I bought it CPO. The fronts are groaning under medium load, and getting the shutter a bit. Looked at them, pads have a ton of life left (mostly highway miles here), can see spots on the front rotor though. I’ll be ditching these drilled rotors soon and going with aftermarket solid instead. I think the problem has two causes. 1, I think crap gets into the drilled hole that eventually gets cooked on to the rotor and 2, I think the auto hold accelerates this if you don’t let the rotors cool for a second before using it. Meaning if you come to a marginally aggressive stop and immediate set the hold, then that spot cant cool for a second or two. I tend to come to a stop and then inch forward a foot or two to rotate the rotor before hitting the auto hold feature. But either way, I think these drilled rotors are nothing but looks and cause more issues than they’re worth. I also think proper lug nut torque and sequence is very important. Seems like every time I get the car back from service that required a wheel to be removed (say rotating the tires), the torque is all over the place for the wheels. Like they just rapid fire the impact wrench with no regard to setting. |
I'll vouch for the Centric premium drilled rotors on my 2012 E550. The ones with the black coating. I listed the part numbers in another thread. I think about a year now and no shimmy. Also used Centric ceramic pads I believe, this is for the front. On the rear I used cheap local parts store rotors and "platinum" ceramic pads, they work fine, but no rust preventative coating on those rotors, so they turn a nice brown color pretty quickly. Whole car all around new rotors and pads I think I paid less than $400 in parts with my own labor taking maybe 2-3 hours being methodical about cleaning and re-greasing where appropriate, cleaning the inside of the wheels, etc - things a repair shop would never do. Brakes are simple to do at home, just watch a couple of YouTube videos and you're an expert.
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Around here the local parts chains wanted more for their rotors than the MB dealers did. It was weird. In the end, I went with Brembo front rotors and Pagid pads. They dust like all the OE stuff. The work was stupid fast to do, even in the driveway, both sides in just over an hour. I bet book time is 1.5 hours per side, so $600 at the dealer; dealer pads $150, rotors 130 ea, so ~$1000.
None of the pads come with wear sensors for these that I have seen. VW has theirs integrated, therefore included. These have a pinhole for putting one into, presumably if it didn't make rotor contact you can re-use it. $10 ea locally, $5 online. |
Understanding our brake issues
This article should give us all a better insight into the "warped rotor" issues.
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths |
Are the Brembo rotors plain or holey and which Pagid pads have you installed? thanks
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I have a 2014 Mercedes E550 and replaced my front rotors at 50K. Now I’m at 70K and have a brake shutter. I bought a dial indicator and both my front rotors are warped by about 6 thousands of an inch. I went with Centric slotted the first time, this time I think I’m going to a solid rotor. I also think they do make these things cheap now. That’s why they don’t last and it’s hard to get them machined. I live in Colorado so the hot/cold expansion and contraction is crazy. I also drive about 35k a year and had some HARD stops which can also warp rotors.
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Originally Posted by JohnnyGrand
(Post 7826142)
I have a 2014 Mercedes E550 and replaced my front rotors at 50K. Now I’m at 70K and have a brake shutter. I bought a dial indicator and both my front rotors are warped by about 6 thousands of an inch. I went with Centric slotted the first time, this time I think I’m going to a solid rotor. I also think they do make these things cheap now. That’s why they don’t last and it’s hard to get them machined. I live in Colorado so the hot/cold expansion and contraction is crazy. I also drive about 35k a year and had some HARD stops which can also warp rotors.
I too have the 2014 E550 tuned to 575/700. Installed Porterfield pads maybe 4,000 miles ago. Worth the money ($300.) over the MB stock pads, as they heat up they get gripper. However, today, as I was doing a couple of high speed, (85>100) slowdowns I got a wobble. So from here, maybe I'll do the rotors. As to the solid rotors you mentioned not sure where to purchase those, maybe here; https://brakeperformance.com/brake-r...nc-coating.php . An option I am very tempted to go to is here; https://www.racingbrake.com/Default.asp but 1100 bucks is a hit. What's your thinking? |
I like those sites thanks! I believe the only way to find a good rotor is to go with some sort of performance option. Depends on how much you drive and how hard you drive your car a guess. Are your pads semi-metallic, or ceramic? I’ve also considered going slotted instead of the drilled.
You got the tune huh? I’ve been thinking about it but have been told different things regarding the long term reliability. I literally drive about 40k miles a year so am worried a tune will hurt longevity of the engine/tranny? I met a guy online who is selling his 14’ E550 and said the tune he received doesn’t let the car start in 1st gear to protect the tranny. It seems the AMG’s use basically the same twin turbo V8 just slightly tuned with a few transmission variations, air intake, brakes, exhaust. Any thoughts on long term reliability/longevity? |
Originally Posted by JohnnyGrand
(Post 7828798)
You got the tune huh? I’ve been thinking about it but have been told different things regarding the long term reliability. I literally drive about 40k miles a year so am worried a tune will hurt longevity of the engine/tranny? I met a guy online who is selling his 14’ E550 and said the tune he received doesn’t let the car start in 1st gear to protect the tranny. It seems the AMG’s use basically the same twin turbo V8 just slightly tuned with a few transmission variations, air intake, brakes, exhaust. Any thoughts on long term reliability/longevity?
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For JohnnyGrand
This is the shop where I had my tune done over a year ago https://www.pressertech.com/mercedes-tuning-blog/ Most importantly reliability of engine and transmission. This is a major concern for all of us. My tune is a stage 2 and the reliability of the engine and transmission will be dependent on how I treat my car and not on the tune. The tune is nothing more than allowing the vehicle to perform at the optimum power levels designed into the motor and transmission by MB. MB is a performance-focused builder of cars but in their worldwide markets they have to take into consideration their buyers are not all gear heads. Basically, they de-tune their motors. We have to keep in mind this brand is based in a country where there are roads without speed limits. Just go on U-tube and watch people pushing their E-cars above 150mph. As far as not letting the car start in first gear I had not heard of that before. My tune has not changed any factory settings as to driveability. The first thing you will notice is in 60-70 mph passing. In stock sometimes it would downshift, now between the hp and torque it hardly downshifts unless I want to make a point of passing at an ungodly speed. In a nutshell, the first time I floored it entering the interstate on-ramp I had to back off immediately or hit someone. It was kind of scary and the wife is not into high-speed driving. If you keep your foot out of the radiator you may get better mileage, because the rpm's will drop with the increase in torque. I maintain peak performance by changing the oil every 5K with Mobil 0-40 European, plug changes every 50K, clean filters every 5K, (using Green reusables) and that's about it. Keep it between the lines and happy motoring. |
Zimmerman/brembo
Hi,
2013 e550 85 k..... Replaced OE rotors at 44k due to shudder😭 , bought vented Zimmerman's and brembo pads. I have logged 40k ön them with no issues. All stop and go no racing or track use. They dust a fair bit but feels confident when hauling the speed down . Just my two cents |
Originally Posted by SebastianM157
(Post 7873414)
Hi,
2013 e550 85 k..... Replaced OE rotors at 44k due to shudder😭 , bought vented Zimmerman's and brembo pads. I have logged 40k ön them with no issues. All stop and go no racing or track use. They dust a fair bit but feels confident when hauling the speed down . Just my two cents |
I own a brake lathe and turn plenty of rotors. I measure them first. It is not unusual to have .010 runout. I have heard the argument that rotors don't warp, that it is just pad deposits. and I can't believe someone could say that with a straight face. Rotors warp like crazy, through no fault of the driver, although some drivers don't help their own cause.
I work for a Nascar team, and on a short track with lots of braking, the rotors will be warped by more than .010 after 2-300 miles. Brakes take about 30-45 minutes per axle, and everyone should be doing their own. I don't even bother to put a car on my lift to do brakes. You have to learn to do this very simple maintenance item. |
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