There have been lot of myths about DIY fluid change on those transmissions, but I had 2 cars (W211 and W212) with them, both at 180k miles and only on W211 I had record about fluid changed at 40k.
So finally I did both. Cheapen out on pump and bought $12 oil pump that is design for pumping oil into outboard motor gears. It come with M8 adapter, when 7G hole is M12, so having old plug, I just drilled it and taped M8 hole in it.
Even the transmissions are the same 7G, different MY had different filters. I compare them and when shape is exactly the same, they have different media. Be aware of that and don't buy filters from supplier who is not asking for VIN.
From W211 I collect about 9l of ATF, when W212 had 8. Could be that doing other jobs on W211 I had it dripping for couple of days, when on W212 I gave it 1/2 day.
So the trick on W212 is that at the bottom of the belly housing you have parking latch assembly. The access hole is at 5 o'clock (looking from the rear) and makes for messy job as fluid gargles down belly housing, where it will drip for couple of hours.
My scanners could not read ATF temperatures, so I used infra-red thermometer to check for 45C temperature. Had about 70F in the garage, so starting with cold engine it took few minuted to get to this temperature.
The procedure with all fluid drained is to fill 5-6l of fluid, start the engine so the fluid will get pumped to converter, than with idling engine pump more fluid, where recommended total is 9l.
Then disconnect the pump and stick fill hose into a container to catch the drips. Than just wait for the 45C temperature. Once it is warm and you see fluid just dripping from the hose, disconnect the hose and put the plug back.
I lost 2 sets of cloths on the job, so don't wear your church suit.
One bummer - the access to belly housing has square plastic cover. That at 4 years of age simply shattered on removal. Part 163-271-00-80
The plug takes 4 mm hex and high torque require good tool for that. Access is limited, so you'll need long wrench for it.

 

Doing this next week , but going to take it to an indy shop which quoted me 180 for a fluid change with installing a new tranny mount plus the parts cost me about 120. So all together comes down to 300 hunnids lol

how many liters of fluid did u actually end up putting in? And if converter fluid was drained as well or just the tranny?

 

Even the most honest indy shop not likely will wait 1/2 a day for fluid drip and that seems to be pretty important part in the procedure.
Than reading all those horror stories how shops butcher even simple job I strongly recommend DIY. You can buy car ramps or set of jack stands for $180.
To add salt to the experience - each MB I am buying, who was serviced at dealer had broken screw clips on belly pans.
Once again, whole system should be refilled with 9l of new fluid.

 

BTW $120 for transmission service kit + mount indicate aftermarket parts.

 

they dont have mercedes logo on them , but are made in germany.

 

oh the mount is lemfoerder which is OEM supplier for MB , and is the one thats currently in our w212s ..so all german quality parts.

 

FIY "OEM supplier" and "OEM quality" are 2 different things and can be far apart. Good luck with the indy service.

 

Did you get MB fluid or are you going to use Shell ATF 134? I believe it was about $60 for a case of 12 quarts at a shell distributor. I think sometime in 2011, they went to Shell ATF 134 FE which my local distributor now carries, they didn't have it before.

https://www.shell.us/business-custom...r-locator.html

 

since my car was made before june 2010 it takes regular fluid which is Fuchs ATF i got , but after june it was ATF FE i believe.